Pecan Harvest Table...

[steve_g]

A Question here for some of the more experienced furniture/table builders…
How far do the pedestals need to be mounted in from the ends of the table to allow an adult to comfortably sit at the ends of the table?
Thanks!
SG
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=29126&stc=1

[dmidkiff]

When my customer wanted an overhang on the countertop for eating space I used 9" for leg room. I think 9" would be minimum.

[jTr]

We have a "costume" furniture dining table at my home. They placed cross-brace leg stretcher at knee height on the table ends- probably about 9-10" in. I cannot sit there without adding more discoloration to my shins. (Yes, of course a "real" table is on the honey-do list....)

Meanwhile, the benefits of the trestle style you've got going is the single post. In most cases, knees will straddle it. Bear in mind, as you push them in from the ends, the people on the sides will now have it as an obstacle. However, based on the single post, you should easily be able to determine the sweet spot for placement.

Grab a chair and sit down. How far do your knees protrude from your belly when seated upright with feet flat on the floor (18" seat height) or on first rung if they're bar stools ? (depends on the size of your belly, but lets assume you're fairly trim....)
I would peg that at a minimum 12", with 14" being maximum required clearance. As long as table width is 32 or better, your guests on the table sides should be in good shape as well.

But that's just how I'd go about it....

Good luck- you have a good looking table there!

Jeff

[steve_g]

Architectural standards on the web were all over the place, anywhere from 6” to 18”!
I still remember, as a child, I watched someone at a church picnic lean too hard on the end of a table. What a hilarious mess! I didn’t want that possibility with this table… I settled on 12”. It appears to be a good choice; I can sit on the end without flipping the table. My stretcher tenons are knee knockers and I’ll need to trim them back a bit…
Thanks for your input… it helped confirm what my gut was telling me!
SGhttp://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=29134&stc=1

[guitarwes]

Beautiful table. Those tenons remind me of the hitch sticking out on the back of my truck. Ouchy shin.

[Ajcoholic]

Depends upon the overall size. On a large top ( like the 48" x 100" walnut top) I'll leave 16". On a smaller top 10" minimum to 12".

On a related note, on an eating counter I'll leave between 10" and preferably 12".

[steve_g]

Thought I’d wrap up this thread… Here’s the table with about six coats of Tung oil… I was going to put a few more on as it looked better with each coat, but it sold before I could.
SG

[dmidkiff]

Nice looking table. Six must have been the magic number.

[jTr]

... but it sold before I could.

Steve,
How did you sell it - showroom, craft show, local gallery, word of mouth?

Jeff

[steve_g]

It was in the shop waiting for a slow time for us to finish it… someone saw it and had to have it!
That’s the best way to sell, no commissions, no travel, no customer demands! He saw it and wanted it…
SG

[scottp55]

Looks BEAUTIFUL Steve:)
It should really glow in someones home with 6 coats:)
scott

[Brian Harnett]

Nice looking table. That pecan is beautiful, did you allow for top movement on the breadboard ends?

[steve_g]

“did you allow for top movement on the breadboard ends”

Not really… The table was built up from 1” boards, the 2” thick edges are built up with 2 layers and the breadboard ends are lapped at different points. That said, I was seeing some differential movement of the breadboard ends… like 1/32” to 1/16” and decided that was the way it was “designed”! The ends are put on with biscuits.

Thanks for your compliment… I consider your work to often be my inspiration!
SG

[Tom Bachman]

Question here, did you end up trimming the ends of the tenon? I was going to say, be careful about trimming them off too far, it could be detrimental to the strength. I cut one too far back and it broke the end out when the client tapped too hard on the locking wedge. It didn't look like, from the pictures, that you trimmed much, if any. Which I thought was a good call.

[steve_g]

Tom…
I had planned to take some off but it sold before I got to it… I was concerned about that very issue and so I was procrastinating!
SG

[Tom Bachman]

Good call.

[steve_g]

I knew that we had lost several table sales because we didn’t have matching chairs to go with them… so I’ve been working on a chair design that I can live with… By that I mean it’s virtually 100% cut on the bot, cut from one side (no flip ops) and assembles with locking joints that don’t require clamping. Also, I wanted it to be attractive, strong, fool-proof to assemble and include a scooped seat.
Version 3 of this chair meets these design goals! This proto-type, made from HD #2 SPF 2X6 has garnered rave reviews from all who have seen/sat in it!
The seat scoop is a VCP “molding” toolpath rather than a 3D toolpath and cuts in 20 minutes. The chair is held together with large head “cabinet hanging screws” until the glue is dry, at that point, the screws can be removed and the hole doweled if desired… So far, most are of the opinion that the screw heads contribute to the rustic charm of the chair.
I showed the proto-type to the customer who bought our last table… he immediately ordered another table, 10 chairs and two benches!
If I’m not careful, my retirement hobby could become work!
SG

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=29478&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=29477&stc=1

[James M]

Steve,

That's a simple but elegant designed chair! Well Done!

James

[dmidkiff]

I like it. It looks comfortable. Did you use mortise and tenon or domino for the joints?

[steve_g]

The chair uses “digital” joints… inspired by traditional joinery. Single sided tenons, Dovetail/ puzzle joints and even a half lap!
When the side frames are assembled, they are ridged and square without clamps or glue! The bottom stretchers are flush to the inside of the leg surface.
SG

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=29479&stc=1

[myxpykalix]

Steve
I had to go back and forth from pic of completed chair to parts view to understand how this went together. You are missing a couple parts in your "parts" picture correct? Was this joint one of those "50 digital joints" that is available? If so which one? Also how did you calculate the angle of the tenons?

[steve_g]

Jack…
Yes, some duplicate parts aren’t shown in the rendering…
My joints were “inspired by” the digital joints booklet. These joints were based on what I wanted to accomplish, trial and error and determination to make the joints all cut from one side!
The chair sides are parallel so the tenons are just straight… the slight arc to the back rails gives the optical allusion that they have a bow to them, they are just flat.
SG

[dmidkiff]

Thanks Steve, looks like good sturdy joints. This should keep you just busy enough to call it work.