V Carve Inlay surface smoothing

[Fred Hermann]

I am trying to figure out how to set my machine to do the following. I have a v carve inlay which after trimming is still say 0.2 proud of the board surface. I do not want to plane it. There should be a way to set up my machine with my z height on the board a start height of 0.2 above z and a depth of cut of zero (to bring the inlay flush with the board surface. For some reason I cannot set a start height of Z + 0.2. Anybody had any luck with this?

Thanks

Fred

[Gary Campbell]

Move bit to .2
ZZ

[Fred Hermann]

Thanks but I think I worked out how to set the system. I was trying to do it through the Vectric software but yesterday got it figured out using the Shopbot software.

Fred

[scottp55]

Fred,
Best luck here (but depends on design and how the waste sits), is to raster against the grain to remove majority of waste, leaving a skin of waste .01-.02".
Then using something like a business card under Z-plate(.01") raster again or manual, and then ZZ, but with a stepover this time more as if you're doing a 3D(4-10% depending on bit D),
and take off say .05"(depends on flatness of board)again against the grain. Seems to minimize splinters tearing stuff out.
Then skim as close as you dare before sanding.
I've had best luck with a downcut.

[Fred Hermann]

Thanks Scott

Works like a charm. Started with .05 last couple of passes .02. Thankfully being retired I have enough time on my hands to play with light cuts. Gets to be a bit of a gem of chicken, how close can I get, but nice to know I can do it

Fred

[scottp55]

Glad it worked well for you Fred!
If board was surfaced by machine, and flatly held down, you can get within a whisker:)
Also helps if after clamping, the board is turned upside down, so any glue excess winds up on waste...strengthens the waste a little also, so it doesn't splinter off and take a chunk with it.
FUN seeing it emerge:)
scott

[Bob Eustace]

I have found the easiiest and most cock up proof method is to just slice off the top with the band saw. A final clean up is then done on a drum sander and you do get extremely consistant results.

[scottp55]

Hey Bob,
I don't know about Fred, but both those tools are on my wish list, NOT in my shop:)
Actually like the last one I did...I left inlay about .015" proud, and using a soft Bosch pad/abranet backing pad/ and 320/400/600 abranet, and it left the inlay VERY slightly proud and it added a nice tactile touch similar to Greene Brothers:)
The Fein 5" optional hard pad and working through the grits, leaves it flush without too much time to take it down.
I hear you guys are finally getting some warm days and less rain:)
Skim ice in places for first time on the pond today.
scott

[Fred Hermann]

Hi Bob

That works well with a sharp blade and a flat surface well the band saw part anyway the drum sander purchase was put off in favour of the shopbot purchase. What What using the shopbot technique will allow me to do is place and finish insert in a piece where the insert location is below the nominal surface. For example an already turned plate where the surface of the plate was below the rim of the plate. Christmas gift ideas abound. Thanks for all the advice it will all apply at some point.

Fred