Help!!!!!!! Control box not connecting with computer

[wmcghee]

OK, I'm about to pull my hair out here. I got my bot set up and ready to go yesterday. I was up half the night and have been with it all day today.

First off, when the control box is powered up should it make any noises or should any led's light up. I can power mine on and I can't tell that power is even to it unless I stick a volt meter to it.

If I click on the shopbot control software it comes up and says its "trying to locate tool". That flashes 2 or 3 times and the yellow box pops up. It says at the top of the box "COMPORT SEEMS OK BUT NO CONNECTION TO CONTROL BOX MADE"
(PORT4). I can move the cable to the other port and it says the same thing. I have tried changing the ports in the device manager and in the shopbot software with no luck. I also tried uninstalling the drivers for the USB bridge.

When I do an uninstall of the drivers and plug the USB cord back into my computer it says "new hardware found" then it says device is set up properly". How can I get rid of the drivers and software so that when I plug the USB from the control box it will not automatically recognize it.

My email address is wtproducts@icx.net (mailto:wtproducts@icx.net)
if someone will email their phone # so I can call and explain it better than typing. All help is appreciated.

I have a Dell Inspiron notebook computer with a celeron processor. Windows XP

[jsfrost]

The forum may or may not be the quickest route. Shopbot support is the official path. Leave them a message also.
I'll look in detail at how my box behaves at turn on when I get home. (5PM CST) One check I can tell you from memory will indicate the control box is doing something. Once the box is switched on, press the reset buton. If the box is doing anything there should be an obvious relay click.

[paco]

Hummm... the control box does'nt make any noise else than "CLICK" (and you can hear the motors being powered up and engaging) when you push the reset button and mine does'nt have any led on it... only inside...

Is the USB extension really well connected inside the control box (and the serial adapter to the USB extension)?
Do you seem to have any hardware problem(s) when looking at the Device manager in Control Panel/System/Hardware tumb/Device manager (particulary at Ports)?
I'd suggest to delete the current shopbot.ini file in C:\Program Files\ShopBot\ShopBot 3\ and restart the SB3 software (ShopBot control software)... won't hurt, not long and worth trying...
Have you tryed to load the Firmware (from this yellow diag. box about communication problem)?... just for fun!... this might worth trying too!?...

And go to sleep or take a break... and mail or call support; but don't pull your hairs... this will hurt... and anyway they will fall by themselves later as you aged!
Keep us informed of your findings...

[beacon14]

Wayne,

Occasionally there have been machines shipped which were not wired correctly for the intended use. Usually it's a matter of a missing jumper or something simple like that. Call ShopBot support (if you can talk to Gordon he knows the most about the control box wiring) they should be able to diagnose the problem with you as you work in the control box.

[wmcghee]

Thanks for the help. When I power on the control box and push reset nothing happens. Mine was wired for a spindle for later use. I don't hear any clicks or anything. I tried support today but they were closed due to a snowstorm.

[paco]

You might want to review your wiring until you get an answer about this... is the breaker on (I had to ask!!!)... what about the fuses?

A SNOWSTORM?!?!?! In NC!?!?!?!? So it's not that bad up here in Québec Canada!!!

[wmcghee]

Yep, all the breakers are on and the fuses good.I have looked over the wiring and the blueprints dozens of times. I really think their is a problem with the control box. It does nothing at all when it is powered on and I push the resets. I have a multimeter and it shows power coming into the box and on the wires going into contactor 3. At the bottom of contactor #3 their is no electric. None on any of the other connectors, which I think is normal.

[beacon14]

Wayne,

I had the exact same problem, as did one other poster a month or two ago. We both had control boxes that had been wired for a spindle but were being used with a router. I'd almost bet money it's a jumper in the control box. I'm not fluent enough in control box wiring to walk you through it (with my luck, I'd turn a simple problem into a major one). This is definitely one for Tech support. E-mail them, and leave a message on their voice mail. They sometimes check the v.m. after hours (and during weather related closings.)

[daniel]

Just a thought,

Have you downloaded the sortware into the control box? This is not the sortware (Part Wizard) or (Shopbot Control). It's the firmware you install in the control box.

[wmcghee]

I have tried loading the firmware with no success. I think it is a problem with the way the box is wired. Although it does look right from what I can tell from the schematic. But I don't know much about reading them.

[paco]

If you open (and keep your hands and fingers away from "sensitive places") the control box then turn the power on (you must turn it off first to be able to open the box); do you see leds that light up? I don't know about the wiring of the spindle setup but I know that the control box is powered with a simple 110 V line... and powering up the box to communicate with it via the software should'nt have a link with the powering up to the spindle/router!?!? ...still; maybe safer to just wait for SB support about this...

[wmcghee]

I have had the control box opened with the power on. None of the LEDs light up.

[paco]

Hummm.. something's wrong!?

Have e-mailed support (I suggest)?

[wmcghee]

Well, I figured out one of my problems. I had the wiring wrong. I had my box wired for 220 and it should have been 110. Instead of having 1 hot, 1 N and 1 ground I had 2 hots and a ground.

I called support and Grant (I think) and Andre helped out tremendously. They made me realize my mistake.

So anyway, after getting it wired up for 110 correctly, the 30 amp fuse was blown. So I finally found one and tried it out tonight.

It did power up now but I still have problems. It says my E-stop buttom is pushed in or I need to reconfigure with VN. No luck. I did read a post from November where someone was having the same problem. They switched the Black and green wires on the blue connector. That did not work for me. I also tried the other 2 wires with no luck.

Here is what I noticed. With the control box opened. The 2 middle black boxes that the stepper motors plug into have their green lights on. The 2 outside motors don't have any lights on. They are also cold to the touch. The 2 with the lights on are warm. When I push the E-stop button in, I hear a click and approx. 5 seconds later the lights go off of both of the boxes. I also noticed 2 motors were warm and 2 were not.

I am hoping that this is something simple but I'm afraid I've cooked a few things inside the box. I'm not on my computer with Email or I would contact support so hopefully they could call Saturday.

Does anyone know if this would have done damage to something??

[fleinbach]

Ther is a very good possibility you fried something. Hooking electric up wrong does not always cause a problem, but you connected 220V to a 110v circuit. This surley cooked something. 220v AC does not need a nutral or ground to function. 220v is actualy 2 110v lines. In a 220v AC circuit current will flow between the two hot leads. It appears from what you said you put one of them where the 110v nutral was supposed to be. This ran 220v thru a 110v circuit. Very Bad!

[paco]

[fleinbach]

Your right Paco, deep doo doo

[wmcghee]

GThanks for all the help and info. I am going to call support in the morning and go over everything with them.

I have looked over everything and I see that the box is wired for the Colombo. That means I have not electric going directly to #1 and 2 contactors. Although they do seem to operate because they click when I hit the reset button. I guess I will find out more tomorrow.

[designer@motorhome-world.com]

Hi,

There is a communication problem between my PC and our Shopbot.

Someone that does not know the machine pressed the stop button when the machine was off and moved the X and Y rails slightly.

The next time I switched it on a dialogue box appeared.

I tried using different USB cables and ports but no luck thus far.

The machine was working before this.

One of our major concerns is the limit stop/ STOP switch keeps on flashing even when I disconnect it from the control board.

The message on the dialogue box is "COMM PORT SEEMS OK,BUT NO CONNECTION TO CONTROL BOX MADE.(PORT3)".

Can someone please advise?


Thanking you in advance.

[richards]

My alpha connects to com-port three. ( believe that the software defaults to port four.) In any case, the com-port can be changed/set with the VI command.

The stop switch on my machine is normally closed when not-pressed and normally opened when pressed - which also means that the control box would think that the switch was being pressed if it were removed from the machine.

-Mike

[gerald_d]

Gakiem, a total wild guess - is your Alpha wired to 3-phase and a phase has dropped? Maybe you should e-mail Wayne as his experience sounds very similar to yours. (I know you mailed SB on Friday already, maybe you could send them a reminder too, or give them a call.)

[btk]

Gakiem,

As Mike Said, Disconnecting the Stop Switch from the Control Box will show the Flashing Port Warning even if you physically disconnnect (this is because default configuration is Normally Closed). When disconnnecting it, you are "Opening" the circuit and triggering the warning.

When you physically reconnect the switch, make sure that you put the ground wire in the correct spot and use the correct colored wires. I beleive there are 4 wires in the stop switch cable and depending on if your control software is expecting normally open or a normally closed configuration, you need to connect different colored wires (I beleive you only use two of the 4 wires, however you have to check instruction manual).
-------------------------------------------
That all being said, I did have a problem when I updated my software from DOS to windows where I was getting the same error as you are getting (even though I wired correctly). The problem ended up being that I had to also update my firmware on the control box as the previous version of the firmware did not communicate well with the new version of the control software. This can be done by clicking the update firmware selection on that POP Up Window you are getting. You have to first download the appropriate firmware from the shopbot site.

======================
But....Considering that everything was working fine before someone pushed your stop button, I can not see that it would be a Wiring or Firmware issue. I am just pointing out the above as by chance that you also recently updates your software in addition to the Stop Button being pressed.

Brian

[wmcghee]

My problem was when the machine was new. It was a wiring problem on my end.
I do have occasional problems where my machine will be cutting doing a fine job and all of a sudden it looses its connection. Usually when this happens it thinks x and y zeros are wherever the machine stopped at. But when this happens it is sometimes takes a while to get the connection back. I usually have to power the machine and the computer down and restart them both. I think this problem may be to a power cord running across the USB cable. I moved the power cord and have not had the problem since.

[designer@motorhome-world.com]

Hi guys.

Thanks for the input. Our problem is that the machine was working before and it stopped working.The machine has been running for a couple of months.

I dont know why, but the stop button switch (switch 4 in the control software) keeps on flashing.This, to me, indicates a connection to the machine but a wrong signal is returned. Does anyone perhaps know of a way to rewire the stop button or some setting to over-ride the stop button so that the machine reads it as off.

We just want to test it so that we know the problem does not lie in our switch.

[gerald_d]

Gakiem, read the message of BTK..... You have to connect two wires together to stop that signal from flashing.

[richards]

Gakiem,

The VN command can be used to change the state of the stop switch input from normally closed to normally open.

I would not recommend running the Shopbot with the state changed to normally open. Using it the way it was configured from the factory requires that the stop switch be operational at all times. If the switch were to become disconnected, the Shopbot would stop.

Using the VN command to change the state to normally open would allow the Shopbot to run without the switch connected - even if you were unaware of the switch being disconnected, thus allowing a possibly dangerous condition to occur.

-Mike

[gerald_d]

Gakiem, I am wondering about something really simple......

After the stop button was pushed in, did you twist it and pull it back out again? An E-stop button locks itself down, and you must do something (like twisting or hard pulling) to get it back to its normal situation again.

[gakiem]

Gerald,
I have found the wires to connect from the control box for the stop button. They are ES1, 2, 3 and 4. ES1 connects to ES2 and ES3 connects to ES4.I jumped them right at the board. Still no luck


Mike,
I have tried the VN command already and there is still no returning signal to the PC.I tried setting the switch running as ON and OFF.

I thank you guys again for all your help.

[gerald_d]

Gakiem, it sounds like you tried it with 2 jumpers. Have you tried it with one jumper at a time? In other words, either jump 1&2, or jump 3&4, but don't jump both pairs at the same time.

[gakiem]

Thats worth trying!

[gakiem]

I tried connecting the switches individually but it did not make a difference. The sound that is usually heard when pressing the reset button is a much softer THONK then usual. When I connected both switches the THONK was louder again.

Im paranoid that somewhere in the control box something is blown.

[gerald_d]

That's okay, your manager will just take it off your pay-cheque...


Looks like you have to phone the factory this afternoon, instead off slipping off for the long weekend

[richards]

The sound of the THONK is a good clue, since it is the sound of the contactor(s) being activated. A soft THONK would mean that either the contactor(s) is not being activated with full power, or that the contactor(s) is being inhibited by an outside condition (reset switch).

In either case, I would recommend that you email or telephone Shopbot for help.

[wmcghee]

When you power up your control box with the door open to the box does all of the drivers light up? Their should be a green amd red light on each one with at least 1 of the lights on on each one. My problem was 2 of the drivers were fried. You can also try to move the machine when it is powered up with your hands. If it moves pretty easy one of the axis' moves then your not getting power to that motor. however, don't try to push it very hard. It will not take much to move it so don't push on it very hard.

Sorry if someone else has already suggested this.

[weslambe]

Wayne,

From what I understand, you are never supposed to "move the machine when it is powered up with your hands." I've been told that you can send voltage back from the motor to the controller board and fry the drivers due to that movement.

My 2 cents.

Wes

[fleinbach]

Wes
I'm not positive but I believe that may only pertains to the pre-alpha machines. I have seen the Alphaprt demonstrated to be able to be pulled from its stopped position and spring back without losing position.

[gakiem]

Hi guys,

I have contacted shopbot and they have suggested lots of things to try. None of these solved my problem.

Well I had a gr8 weekend and I hope you all did as well. I try not to think of work on holidays and I think thats why Im still struggling. Anyways...

Gerald:
If that was the case then I think I wont be getting paid this year


Wayne:
I have checked that which you explained and still no luck.Thanks!

Mike:
I have checked all contactors with a voltmeter and with shopbot...and...nothing.Thanks!

Wes:
Although shopbot and a few others told me that pushing the machine wont do any harm if pushed for short distances, I personally think that the problem is very much linked to that, even though its been pushed a bit before when it was working.
Thanks

Frank:
You are not the first to say that pushing the machine a bit wont do any harm, but Im still worried about that because the machine was working for a couple of months now then suddenly it stopped. Its still a big mind boggler for me.
Thanks.

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

[fleinbach]

Abdul

Is you Shopbot an Alphaprt or an older Prt, Pr?

You said earlier last week
"Someone that does not know the machine pressed the stop button when the machine was off and moved the X and Y rails slightly."

From what you said it sounds like the power was off to the machine when it was moved. Is that right?

[weslambe]

Abdul,

I thought that you stood a chance of creating voltage whenever you turned a motor that was off. When my company used to clean the dust out of pc's (unplugged) we used to make sure that all of the fans wouldn't turn when we blew them with the canned air. Spinning fans could (note: could) possibly send a charge back through the electronics.

Not being an electrical engineer, I don't know if this really is the case, but I err on the side of caution when dealing with expensive stuff.

Wes

[richards]

Abdul,

It appears that you've checked the simple things and verified that everything seems to be as it should. If I were checking the machine, I would use the volt meter and work my way through the control box, starting with at the power panel that feeds electricity to the machine and then following the power into the control box.

Of course, you'll need to BE CAREFUL. When the box is opened, there are lethal voltages just waiting to shock you.

The wiring in the Alpha's control box is straight-forward. Follow each line from source to destination until you either find a disconnect, or until you've verified power going into something and nothing coming out. In any case, you should be able to check everything in fifteen minutes or so.

[gakiem]

Hi guys,

Frank:
We have a PRTalpha, and yes the power was off.
Why??:{

Wes:
I was thinking along those lines as well. I checked all the lights on the board and they work. I think we need to call in somenone to check the rest of the board.

Mike:
I have only checked the the power coming ing the box that runs through the fuses. As I wrote to Wes, Im gona ask for someone else to check the voltages.

Guess what??The infamous Gerald Dorrington is coming out to help with my dilemna. Im sure that we will sort out the problem today

[gerald_d]

Calm down Gakiem, I only said that I am going to give it a hard kick - your pay cheque is still under threat.
This will be the only other ShopBot that I have seen in my life, and it is going to be a dead Alpha

[Mayo]

Apologies if this is all too obvious... or if it was already suggested -

I don't know if the stop button you received with your machine is the same type as the one I received with mine or not, but if it is, you may not realize that the stop button remains in the stop position after it is pressed. You have to turn the button to release the stop condition of this particular kind of button.

[fleinbach]

The reason I asked if it was an Alphaprt was pertaining to being able to move the carriage when powered up. This should not be a problem since the people at Shopbot pull the carriage while powered up to demon straight the alpha motors ability to return to its original position.

[gerald_d]

The kick didn't help.

In his problem.log file he gets
Control Box Firmware Version: not detected
and that is after I watched him load firmware (switch off control box, wait 15 secs, switch on, watch bar-graph showing the firmware being loaded).

a. Does the fact that the bar-graph show the firmware loading prove that the USB port/link is correctly set up?

b. Should his problem.log show Control Box Firmware Version: not detected immediately after that point?

(Mayo, a very valid point, but we've been there. I've also had a couple of egg-on-my-face experiences with a variety of E-stops)

Gakiem, have you seen this thread (http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/messages/1843/4676.html)? It's old, but there you can see that the problem.log should show something. Also, there was an issue of speed sensitivity at that time, and I wonder if our metric speeds play a role......

[fleinbach]

Gerald

The bar graph indicates it is recieving feedback from the controler.

This is just a guess but did you try to delete the shopbot.ini file in the shopbot3 folder? After you delete it it will rebuild itself when you open the program again. This can cause all kindes of problems if it gets corrupted.

If that don't work try kicking it again. I find that sometimes it's how you kick it that counts.

[gakiem]

Hi guys.

Gerald:
Thanks again for taking time out of your day to help a fellow shopbotter. It is very much appreciated.
You have a very good point. I wonder if SB support will have a good answer for me.
With the link, are you suggesting I look for older software??

Mayo:
Thanks for the input, that was one of the first things I tried.

Frank:
I deleted the shopbot.ini file already and had no luck. The kicking didnt help either, Im sitting with a swollen toe!

[richards]

Abdul,

It might possibly be the USB to Serial Bridge.

When I type UD, I get Port 3, Speed 4: 460800.

When loading firmware, I've changed the Port to Port 3 because it wanted to default to Port 4. If you're using Windows XP, to find which Port your computer has available, click START, CONTROL PANEL, SYSTEM. HARDWARE, DEVICE MANAGER and then expand PORTS (COM & LPT). In that list you will find something like ATTEN USB to Serial Bridge (COM X), where X is the port number. Verify that the Port number in the DEVICE MANAGER and the Port number shown in UD are the same. If they are different, in the Shopbot Values pull down menu, change the Port number with the VI command (Comm Port Number = X). You might also try another Comm Speed (4=460.8, 3=230.4, 2=115.2).

Since you have a status bar, the Comm Port setting is probably correct. Trying a slower speed might help. But, again, it might be a faulty USB to Serial Bridge device.

-Mike

[jsfrost]

I don't know Shopbot well, but I have a lot of electronics troubleshooting experience. With luck, maybe I can help. Rereading all the symptoms, suggestions and tests made so far, I think the control box "firmware not detected message" that Gerald found is a key indicator. The bargraph on code download suggests a working USB, and the "Comm Port seems ok but no connection made" is not the message I get when I forget to turn the control box on. It seems likely that there is comm port traffic, but a failed handshake creates the error essage you see. Ask SB specifically what event keys that exact message. Based on the "firmware not detected" message it may be that the memory device storing the firmware is defective or more likely has no operating voltage. An event killing a driver might load a power supply, and cause seemingly unrelated symptoms. SB can tell you what voltage this might be and where to measure. Follow Mike's cautions in making any measurements.

Jim

[gerald_d]

Gakiem, in case you don't realise it, the SB support guys do not necessarily read this Forum. You might not have told them what you already told us and maybe they don't have the full picture. You have to persist with the e-mail route because that is your official support system. SB carries the warranty, and you must be careful about following our amateur advice inside the control box if you don't want to nullify their warranty.

By the way, do you prefer to be addressed as Gakiem or Abdul? You don't really have to give your FULL name when registering for the this Forum - you can change that by going to the Profile button at the top of the page.

[ted]

Hi Gakiem,

I'm sorry this problem has dragged on so long. I believe that Frank from ShopBot has spoken with you recently and that we have a couple parts on the way to cover what appear to be the 2 possibilities (1. bad communications chip on the microcontroller board; 2. zapped USB bridge).

It is the case, that with the PRTalpha tools, moving them slightly should not cause damage to the motor drivers. However, there may be some way that a spike from this motion gets on the ground line and damages the communication system. This is something we will have to check out.

In the meantime, you can get a better check of the USB bridge by using the loopback test which you can find in the the C:\Program Files\ShopBot\Diagnostics folder. There is a text file there which explains the test. This test is better than just trying the firmware load to test communications because it tests the USB at full speed. The firmware is loaded at a relatively slow speed and can work even if the USB bridge or microcontroller communications are not fully functioning, and thus give a false positive.

Given that your test with the other computer did not connect, I'm pretty confident that the problem is with one or the other of these communications devices and we'll get them there as quickly as possible. There may be a local source for the USB bridge available to you ... but from experience, only a few brands will actually support the communication speeds needed.

Ted

[gerald_d]

Hi Ted

Gakiem has gone home for the day (it is after 6pm here). By the time he gets back to work, you guys have gone to bed. So it could take 2 days before he starts to look locally for the right components. To save time, may I ask on his behalf that you mail him the spec/manufacturer of suitable USB bridges and comms chips? I'll help him search for the components as I am a lot nearer to the center of the city than him.

[gakiem]

Hi guys.

Mike:
Thanks again.I have checked the connection many times before,but as Jim explained, there is a definite connection but the 'handshake' is not happening.

Jim:

You have explained in my line of reasoning. I like the metaphors.Thanks for that input.

Gerald:
You are right about the warranty. I will probably make things worse and spoil an expensive machine.Thanks for all the help, I owe you big time!

Ted:
Did you saying that you guys are sending parts down to us?If so,how?As Gerald explained, maybe we have local suppliers for some parts,as I understand,he knows the right people.
I do not have a diagnostic folder or the test. Can you perhaps mail it to me?(designer@motorhome-world.com (mailto:designer@motorhome-world.com)).
Thank you for the support.

[gakiem]

Ted:
You dont have to mail me the files.I loaded older software to check the machine yesterday, thats why I didnt have the files. Gerald made me realise.

[gakiem]

Ted:
I have tried the loop test as well through port3, the one connected to our shopbot, and it passed the serial closed loop test
Is there anything else you can suggest?

[ted]

Gakiem,

We have parts coming express mail(DHL). We are expecting them to arrive there Friday or Monday and will be sending you tracking info.

On the microcontroller board there is a standard hex inverter (74HC14) which might be the damaged component. This component should be available an most electronics stores, and you might try swapping it out.

The microcontroller itself has low-level installer code that needs to be burned in by us so that it can then load the outboard control firmware. As this is probably the most likely item to be problematic, I'm afraid you will just have to await the arrival of the new board.

In the meantime, double check the 5volt lines on the control board. Any of the 5v outputs should be at about 5.3v. If below this, you can carefully tweak the value up a bit with the little white adjuster on the DC power supply.

Email me if you have further questions on this.

-Ted

[gerald_d]

Apparently Gakiem received his spares this morning, has installed them, the system is working now, and he is trying to catch up on nearly 3 weeks of downtime.

[slendon]

Post flood connection problem....After mopping up from recent flood, where I found the usb to serial connection under water. Can no longer get a connection..have swapped out the usb to usb extension, and done what I can to clean the usb connector on the serial convertor.

The computer is running on XP and version SB 3.14

Have tried to connect on diferrent ports and tried to reload firmware with this failed message :'error opening com port. port identifier is missing' Replugging the usb into computer gives :'the usb driver has malfunctioned and windows does not recognise it'.
Looking in the device driver/properties the message is 'no drivers are installed for this device' but reloading a driver from the suppliers cd still does not cause the device to be recognised.

My guess is that the serial bridge has failed, by being shorted....Any ideas how to proceed with diagnostic/fix??

Cheers
Steve

[paco]

Hi Steve!

Look in 'C:\Program Files\ShopBot\Diagnostics\' for 'LoopTest_FAQ.txt'... though it may not point out which part of the "circuit" is bad in any case it is bad... and get 3.4.16; can only be better!

[slendon]

Hi Paco,

Thanks for fast response, shorting pins two and three and opening the loop test gets no response. Frank at shopbot has also replied and thinks it is a failed adapter...looks like I must go shopping. Any other ideas?

Steve

[slendon]

New adapter by 'Eminent' fitted, now the com port is recognised (and correctly assigned in the VI command) have updated to V3.4.16, but fails to connect.

I am aware that the Belken adapters do not work, however Shopbot do not know which,if any,other makes also do not work. ?Anyone out there using an adapter by EMINENT? Also what are the parameters that fail? and can I check them pre purchase? (to save me buying more and more adapters).

If the adapter is OK, any ideas for the next weakest link to be checked....I have swapped out computers. With the same results.....

Remember the fault arose after the usb/serial lead connector became submersed. My non technical guess is that the power supply in usb has shorted and fried something up the line?

Any help gratefully received

Steve

[slendon]

Should also have said: Loop Test for new adapter works fine, but cannot get a response from the firmware downloader (no bars showing download)

Steve

[paco]

Hummm... if the serial adapter got submerged, this (to me) mean that (at least) part of the control box got too!...?... and since the control board is installed on the bottom of the control box... though yours might be different...

If you get to order one, my advice would be to get it from SB; they got two model I believe... just ask for fastest delivey possible.

Good luck!

[slendon]

Paco..The cable connector, outside the box, only got submerged, not the control box.

The Loop test as decsibed in the Diagnostics text file, does not seem to be definitive, while my new adapter returns typed text from the keyboard back to screen, it will not return a text file transfered. (this idea of transfering a text file came from Frank at shopbot when I pressed for confirmation about the loop test results). So anyone else in the same position should not rely on merely typing text.

I have suggested that shopbot amend the text file accordingly.

Having now tried two more makes of adapters (that don't pass the transfer test) I will have to wait for an Iomega origional to arrive by post.

Does anyone know the correct spec parameters for these adapters to allow them to work with shopbot?

Steve

[gus]

Steve,
Have you tried the one Radio Shack sells? Model 26-183. I replaced the origional iomega one that failed with that and has been working fine for months.

[paco]

Steve,

was the control box and/or the control PC powered when you got flooded?... if not, it's not clear that the serial adapter is now bad... maybe just wet or dirty...

I have the original (that came with the Alpha) and a Quatech (www.quatech.com (http://www.quatech.com), mod. SSU-100, RS-232 - 1 port - USB adapter) that I got from SB for testing/troubleshooting an disconnection issue.

Just for fun, I'll see if I can get the test to work as you supposed... more later...

What parameters are you looking for?

[slendon]

Ted
Thanks for the tip, but I think my nearest Radio Shack is 3000 miles away!...would love to have the access to bits and bobs like you guys do.

Paco

No nothing was turned on when I was flooded, but after the clean up I did not think to dry out the connector before I powered up...My mistake!

Interesting that I have had a few replies direct indicating trouble with this adapter..

Have pretty much concluded that one of the adapters I bought is OK as it passes loop back test OK (Inc. sending the text file as per Franks advise). I think I now have to wait for a blue earth board from shopbot.