Question about dimensional sign making..

[adam_m]

My first post to the forum...

I was interested in creating a sign similar to the attached but I'm not 100% certain on how this was accomplished.

Was this created using inlay's or did they somehow precisely paint/stain the different transitions?

Does anyone have any experiences with creating a similar sign that might have a demo/video/write-up on how to accomplish?

Thanks.

Adam,

[steve_g]

Adam…
There are several ways to approach this project… two ways that don’t involve pocketed letters.

If you own Aspire, you can just extrude one set of text higher than the other and cut it as a 3D project.

If you are using a 2D program like VCP, You’ll first pocket around the higher text and the border. Second, you’ll pocket deeper around the union of both sets of text at a deeper depth.

Creating the union of both sets can be tricky! VCP has a “weld” function that sometimes works, but often, for me I land up doing it by hand using node editing…

If you need more detailed instructions, just ask!

SG

[chiloquinruss]

Based on the example you posted I think it was done exactly as Steve has suggested. Look closely at your example pix and you will see the wood grain is apparent on all levels of the text, so no inlays were used in your example. However you could do it as overlays.

http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_96339951.jpg

http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_13695810.jpg

http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_65865131.jpg

On the above examples the background was very lightly scribed with the design / letters / borders. Then the pieces were all cut out and pre painted and then applied to the pre painted / scribed background. Russ

[adam_m]

Thanks for the reply's.

I love the contrasting colors of a dimensional sign and applaud you guys for your talents.

If I had a steady hand it might make sense to do try it as a single item in Aspire, I use the demo version, I have a buddy who owns the full version. I should have looked better at the grain of the wood, good catch.

Steve, in the example you posted I'm struggling in seeing how Johnathan & Abbey would inset into Miske.

I see the the cut out of the Johnathan & Abbey, makes sense.

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I also get the "base" layer that includes both Johnathan & Abbey and Miske

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But I don't see how Miske will allow for the Johnathan & Abbey text to be inset into the Miske after Miske is set as it doesn't seem to be inlaid for the text?

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OR am I missing the assembly, does Minske need to be set after the base is cut and then routed for setting Johnathan & Abbey?

Thanks,

[mikeacg]

Adam,

You keep saying 'inset' but I don't think that is what you mean. What software do you have? It would be easier to try to help you if we knew that info...

Your CNC cuts the pockets from the top down. So on the first pass, it would cut around the 'Johnathan & Abby' type and ignore the 'Miske' as it is below the bottom of the pocket during that pass. When the depth of pass is finally below the surface of 'Miske' it would then pocket around both sets of type (as shown in your 2nd image) until it reaches max. pocket depth.

Mike

[adam_m]

I can use Aspire.

Sorry, inset really should be inlaid. Since I'm green to signing my terminology is certainly wrong, sorry about that.

Although, I don't think I want to cut this as a 3D object and layered in like Aspire would do since that won't give me the ability to create different colors without the tedious painting or staining.

I'm thinking the sign needs to be made in 3 pieces similar to how Steve's process was laid out.

Adam,

[steve_g]

Perhaps it will be easier to see if I show you the pocket of the union of the two texts first…

Then the pocketing of J&A…

There are no individual letters with this method.

If you want individual letters for ease of painting, that’s another technique altogether!

With the one-piece design, you can paint/stain the entire project and then sand off the finish on the highest text layer for more contrast. However, remember, one feature of dimensional signage is that clarity and definition comes from shadows cast by the letters!

SG

[adam_m]

I think I understand the process then..

The first pass removes the material for everything leaving the two text and the border.

The second pass removes material from the two text leaving the J&A, is that correct?

Adam,

[joe]

Man of Man.

I've found that you gotta get in the water to learn how to swim. All the instructions in the world won't be of much help till you take a big gulp or two.

www.normansignco.com

[Kevin Gunn]

I've done some of these using Vcarve Pro.

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They're fun to make, and I got the idea from the same Etsy store you've found. However, they do take quite a bit of time -- both yours and the bot. Like Steve mentioned, it takes a bit of experience to get those lower level welds right!

[srwtlc]

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=vectric+stacked+text+template

[EricSchimel]

Joe do you design your signs in Aspire? You must have done something like this before...

[joe]

Eric,

No I started designing before Aspire hatched. My best tool is a pencil but for the digital work I use Flexisign. It's been my digital tool for thirty five years. But it still starts in the brain and goes to the pencil first.

[adam_m]

Thanks for all the posts and for trying to help me understand.

Maybe my question should have been more about the finishing of a multilayered sign as opposed to the fabrication of it..

In Aspire, thanks Scott, a sign can be modeled in 3D and then cut but it leaves out how to finish the multilayered sign. I've tried painting a sign before with multi-layers and it just doesn't come out correctly for me.

Assume you want to stain the layers a different color? In wood that stain is going to be absorbed in places you don't want it so it seems to me it has to be cut separately and then assembled...

Kevingunn, is that milled from a single piece of material? how did you finish it in two tone?

Adam,

[joe]

Have you done anything yet? If so please show us what you've done.

www.normansignco.com

[adam_m]

Threw this together real quick... but you get the idea.

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This is still 1 piece of material that is cut in 3D. There's no way I could hand paint the "ROBINSON" white or the top text another color.. so that brings me back to my original dilemma, how do I create a multi-colored sign?

Adam,

[scottp55]

Maybe in one of these, or in the links?
Shame I can't see Connor's pics for some reason...He's excellent!
https://www.google.com/search?q=vectric+forum+stacked+text+finishing+site :forum.vectric.com&num=20&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjXyMSlwMzVAhVk6YMKHWUKBssQrQIIMigEMAA&biw=1366&bih=628

[bleeth]

The use of the paired words "no way" is your first mistake. I bet that you can. Maybe not great on first try but it is simply a skill that can be learned like many others.
First thing to understand-Using the right brush and paint quality will go a long way towards making that kind of work doable.
Make up a few smaller5 samples out of some mdf-seal them, and practice. Well made dimensional signs are not inexpensive. There is a reason for that. The people who do them well do so because they put in the time to learn by research and practice. Ownership of a CNC mill does not automatically bestow one with all the skills to produce a high quality finish product. It is a combination of skills and a process to learn. But-rewarding!

[joe]

Yep, there's some craftsmanship needed.

3d often requires some brush skills. Although I'm a brush guy I seldom rely on that when placing copy over copy. Just cut the thing out and plop it down. Gees it's so simple. At present we have lots of dimensional work in the shop most of which needs 3d. None of it requires hand lettering because all the copy is pocketed. Pocket, Pocket, and Pocket.

When making any kind of sign, using the perfect letter style makes all the difference. Understanding Font architecture is so important. Most, if not all of my signs start with the lettering. I build around the panel shape around that.

[adam_m]

I understand that you can't just drop it on the table and expect miracles... well actually I was hoping for that, lol!

My biggest problem is with staining on wood as it draws into the grain you don't get clean lines.

So, if I wanted to make this sign in 3 pieces ( Base/Top Text/Bottom Text) using an inlay method would that make sense? Would it be a similar process as stacking TEXT?

Adam,