Hold down techniques and jigs - please share!

[bking1836]

Hi everyone,

It's been a while since I've posted, but fortunately that's because I've been busy in the shop.

Now that my business is up and running and I have a pretty good sense of what I'm actually making on a day to day basis, I'm looking for ideas and photos on hold down techniques, especially jigs. Please share!

What I mostly do:

through cut hardwood boards and edge-glued panels to make small and large parts ranging from small male inlay pieces to table tops


pocketing, edge profiling and decorative work on hardwood boards and panels


surface/level live edge slabs


I almost never cut sheet goods. Most of the stock I use is boards that are 4"-12" wide by 4'-8' long, 24"x48" edge glued panels (occasionally bigger), and slabs of varying sizes.

The cost and noise of a vacuum system are a deterrent for sure. And would it even work on the smaller, narrower stock I cut anyway?

I like the versatility of being able to quickly screw down stock and through cut into the spoilboard, especially since I do a lot of through cutting. But I'd also like some sort of clamp or track system or modular jigs that I can attach to the spoilboard at fixed reference points. Or anything else genius that you've come up from!

Thank you for your advice!
Brian

[phil_o]

There have been many clamping techniques posted on this forum over the years. Try googling for "talkshopbot clamping".

Phil

[coryatjohn]

Hold down techniques are more art than science...

[Brady Watson]

There have been many clamping techniques posted on this forum over the years. Try googling for "talkshopbot clamping".

Hold down techniques are more art than science...

X2

Answering the question, "How am I going to hold this down" - pretty much IS the entire job with CNC. Everything else is easy. It may take you years to come up with 'hold down fluency' to the point where you don't have to think twice about what method to use. You OWE IT to yourself to at least TRY vacuum hold down using your shopvac to start. Then after the ooo's and ahhs, try a small high suction vacuum pump with gasketing for your small/thin parts. You can get these little pumps for less than a few hundred bucks. They aren't loud and can be used for other things like veneering and vacuum bagging. Look on Ebay when you get to that point. Be sure to also do a search (just use Google to search this forum) - and look for Lighthouse vacuum motors. Cheap, useful vacuum motors you can use for hold down.

FYI - better searching via Google like this: clamping site:www.talkshopbot.com/forum

-B

[bking1836]

Thanks Brady, as well as for the search technique. The search feature within the forum is next to useless...

[bking1836]

Hold down techniques are more art than science...

For sure. But like just about any artist out there, it's natural to be influenced by the work of other artists. So I am looking for influences...

[pro70z28]

I use the down & dirty technique of screwing the material down to the sacrifice board. If I'm doing more than one part or a part that has to be registered I'll screw cleats down to the sacrifice board, squared up from the side rail.

[gc3]

I use the old school method (KISS) nails, screws, pressure sticks.http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=31983&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=31981&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=31982&stc=1

[phil_o]

Thanks Brady, as well as for the search technique. The search feature within the forum is next to useless...
This is why I suggested Googling for clamping methods. There are many ways to hold a workpiece while routing with a CNC. It can be very helpful to see methods others have come up with. I have T-tracks mounted in my spoilboard and I have made a variety of wooden clamps that connect to the T-tracks with T-bolts. This method is very versatile and handles about 90% of my clamping. I prefer wooden clamps so that I don't ruin a router bit if I miscalculate and hit the clamp.

Phil

[joe]

I'm one of those fellows who used the GC3 techniques. Gene probably routes more panels in a month than most of us will do in a year. His technique, screw the panel down to the router bed and use tabs to hold the subject in place. I made one of those vacuum hold down years ago. It ended up in the dimpsey dumpster. Vacuum is good for some work but for those of us routing on routing on uneven or rough stock it's a waste of time.

Four years ago I sold off all my routing equipment to one of my employees and he doesn't use a vacuum. It's one of the most over sold techniques in the trade.

Good luck on your Shopbot search. Like you say, it's not all that effecient.

Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com

[coryatjohn]

I find vacuum hold down is good for some things. Try cutting a sheet of formica without using a vacuum! How about a sheet of veneer or 1/8" acrylic. Vacuum makes these cuts simple and error free. I rarely use vacuum for anything that is stiff though. I'd rather use a combination of scrap boards and T-track clamps. I've never put a screw into my spoilboard. I can always find a better way.

[EricSchimel]

Agreed Cory. I cut a variety of material and having the flexibility of having a vacuum is great for a lot of sheet goods.

Brian:

For the stuff that I can't vacuum I'll often make a "carrier board" where I'll use a plywood sheet with t track or clamps on it and then I'll vacuum that carrier board down.

This way I can hold down off material like hardwood but I can remove the jig in seconds.

Using this method had made it so I never put a fastener in my spoil board now.

[Gary Campbell]

Gene...
Good job on the wedge sticks. Before the air cylinders went in, I used the same method on a machine I setup as a "Louvre Groover" on the island of Nevis in the Caribbean.


http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=31984&stc=1

[tri4sale]

My first try at surfacing a slab

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=31985&stc=1

I had some scrap 1/2 plywood on the table already, so I just made a bunch of these that are 4" circles, then 6" and 8" ovals and fit them into the sides, and took small amounts off each pass, I think I did .1" each pass and it was a total of .5" difference from one side to the other. Maybe could have been more aggressive with pass depth but first time didn't want to risk it.

[JimDav]

Why is it very time I see a post from Joe my stomach tightens a bit because I KNOW he is going to find fault with what ever was posted. So he doesn't like or use vacuum hold downs. We've heard that from him umteen thousand times. For his purposes that is probably fine but for some of the rest of us, vacuum is the BEST and most efficient method to use. A very talented guy in his element but that does not mean he is the know-it-all for the rest of us doing other things. Sorry for the rant. He just gets old after a while. Give it a rest Joe. Your way isn't always the best way for everyone at all times.

[curtiss]

I laid out a grid of 17/ 64 holes on 5-1/2 centers through the “high spots” in the vacuum plenum. This goes all the way through Trupan top and out of the bottom of the 3/4” plywood base.

At the bottom of the hole is a 1/4 inch threaded T- nut which can be used to secure the hold down clamps.

Sometimes I will use a lag screw coming up from the bottom to hold the work-piece using “pull down.” ... you have to miss the lag screw ... nylon screws will work...

Works great, I cover the bottom holes with heavy tape when not in use, vacuum still works fine.

[Gary Campbell]

I don't have one with duct tape, but this one uses a ratchet strap.

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=31987&stc=1

I can only hope that Joe's first foray with a lady didn't turn out the same as his first with vacuum. There are few failures in life, only wins and lessons. Unless of course, you give up too early and toss everything in a dumpster. The fact that Joe couldn't get vacuum to work says much more about him than the power of vacuum.

[coryatjohn]

My first try at surfacing a slab
I think of hold down in the exact same way as forms for concrete. Too little and there's a disaster. Too much and a lot of time is wasted setting them up and taking them down. The "Goldilocks Zone" is where the material won't move with the forces involved with the least amount of effort expended.

I've surfaced numerous slabs and one thing I've found that's a constant. Very little, and I mean VERY little, hold down is required. Here's why:

1. The machine is placing insignificant forces into the material.
2. The workpiece is heavy and has a lot of friction on the table.
3. The action is strictly to remove material from the top.
4. The penalty for movement is nil.

For a slab like that, I would have had a couple of scrap boards just touching it with minimum force. The key is stopping the "activation energy". If the slab is going to move, then it's only going to take a lot of energy to get it to move. All you need to do is stop that initial movement and the piece will stay put. If you don't believe me, try doing your next slab with no hold down on the first pass. Carefully hold it with your hand and feel the amount of force the machine is exerting against the slab. You can probably keep it from moving with a single finger, or none at all.

[joe]

Gary,

Thanks for the well wishes and suggestions.

I'm not against vacuum's. They do an excellent job on light weight flat stock as did the one I built. My issue is this. Most of us can get along without one. All my large commercial routing services have massive vacuum's housed in a special room to manage the noise and heat. They need this level of equipment. But us little guys have been able to manage without the trouble.

Why have Vac. pucks fallen out of favor. Our former Guru, Bill was strong on them. Seems like a good idea.

Thanks again Gary for your kind thoughts.

Joe

[Brady Watson]

First vacuum....then parts flipped up on edge to tighten up corners, aligned and clamped.

Vac pod/puck designed for vacuum to directly contact the back of the lumber for maximum hold down. You do NOT want a bleeder board when doing lumber. The jig was held down to existing vacuum table (with it off) using only a few dabs of wood glue. After it was weighted down and cured, it took only light prying to get it off. Vacuum hose was plugged into the jig (3D Printed fitting) - and the other end plugged into main vacuum manifold using an adapter to jack it into my vacuum relief valve (2" PVC).

After profile cutting was done, each was flipped up on edge, and aligned using a dial indicator to verify alignment in the Y and the Z. Corners sharpened from the side with an end mill, crotches done with 72 deg V bit. Flipped over & repeated. IIRC, these were 2" thick poplar.

I know vacuum is 'only good for lightweight stuff'...but I defy the laws physics in my shop on a daily basis. :p

[Brady Watson]

One more...2" thick walnut, screwed into the back and countersunk screws into MDO strips, then screwed strips down to table.

As you can see....there is no right or wrong with hold down...whatever works for the job at hand with the least amount of post cleanup or aggravation is the way to go.

[joe]

Jim,

Odd as it may seem, thanks for your views. You're right, I should give it a break and will.

Joe

[EricSchimel]

Jim,

Odd as it may seem, thanks for your views. You're right, I should give it a break and will.

Joe

Good.
-------

[bill.young]

Joe and I have had our differences over the years but I think we'll all agree there is no more knowledgeable person on this forum than Joe when it comes to signs...he's an amazingly talented sign artist and it would be a shame for the sign guys to lose access to that information.

Joe...if you're interested in still staying a part of this forum just remember that your experience and interest is in signs and not CNC. Keep in mind that this is a CNC forum, and although there is lots of specific applications discussed on here...like signs...it's main purpose is to share information on CNC techniques. Stick with what you're really good at.

My 2 cents,
Bill

[Burkhardt]

I built my machine with a t-slot extrusion table and originally used clamps only (with blanks on spacer blocks when cutting through) or screwed down onto a disposable board to avoid tabs when the cutout parts had holes anyway.
Later I switched to vac pods with low volume quiet GAST or Thomson pumps. As mentioned in earlier post, refurbished ones are really cheap on eBay and my first pump is still working well after 6 years.

Since the vac pods are still a bit fumbly to position and bolt down I finally converted a few of my T-slot channels to vacuum conduits by sealing the crevices between the extrusions and covering the slots with thin aluminum sheets. I punched a few holes into the sheet and can now access vacuum about anywhere on the table. The unused holes are closed with a piece of duct tape. I only need a reusable gasket (cut from non-slip foam drawer liner) and can slap a board on the table and get it fixed within seconds.

In case I need to cut through the board, I use a spacer board with adhesive gaskets on top and bottom. I have a bunch of them in different sizes that are semi-reusable.

The only reasons to not use vacuum (back to clamps or screws) are for me:
- porous material (forget mdf)
- leaky knots or cracks
- parts are too small (maybe less than 2 square inch).
- parts have complex outlines (e.g. text) or many holes

T-slot as vacuum conduit:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3A9VAin2sIfZAwlvIQ3kIqWkCBlxFKdwGJO2V1bTjgiWlDHgwh kovKOVy3p7NYP1Mq0n8NpR7Xk8m4ahRJ5NqzgmZ2HEiXHlFoqB Z1iXY5-J0vEzSx3WTwiVPj4Wg00HZwQMPJc-U3vqT9Qjurz99QYkByyGIZNw540TChzCsKHqbILvp4PiVcdMZM j0l5SjYGLGH9M7QZJKMzZaqAAe0dZFGBS5_esZ9c29Lx3MYB7x-KO6ymUOwZ8QH4SKiRMxNScyXlRRKU2eOmoMwSdypOL7QtufR78 Fo9aA0f9BkJ6oZKnv9SaefN_Ph5xdLzZU5luj50nYJtd89qpG2 w7mGK5mko88_p0zNLQuKI30fXWWB0z3rddJ1spKjCsSApmwOCg lczHQ_BBc38kq8uxKb1lr64DXTozf3cGoxZklhPe4dCsLAuyIv adiL7A22NC9DuvxFAzgwrhjACH7p_0-0ybkGajLuxkP0NUZBMTeskz2tN1dJF4pds6wZRExjbYUy4-wpZxejYmguucEdbZzBjVcnuGbLEzaOBY0GB6xM8VAQjMX8wVdy 0KILdgR0psOWqO1dJ2pvyoi6d15sJOoGqACljzd49FQWrs-BRnz5ttKJYfoH6ZmQ5GIZL_mgVU=w1024-h582-no

Custom spacer board for multiple small parts (I needed 40 pieces)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SS-0Nong5_i0ec5KNIIEv_1bAJNFWpkyOX8gN2ULW38FFFbsnVVE2 beXzf2b5fxt5wy13KB0xqBeLTJUZWqSdlVr_ahsIFzLr2DVfDY hzlWEhZGZQu_jvef5YzaFZRiMN6fy8OX7eDo02HIxvUjaYZYQD 4KP-HpQ3X4gFTePsv4IgPqFfCoc6dYNClKk17x4Sr0ik4M6ASYmFju 3RADonJ18UPABRisftixyoecqavAxAOdPpXOcgkikgjprKXxXm 7wkBVKX82KcY7qWDdhp3PWjD-K3uVbgBhsoTb-kgIPQlSJDLcLbAi3_F2eL7SW3LlzWabo-PBTxty_oUCkkhgYDRRE96FJTP5EDZNxkpaVViFeMyoZndIF_cu zgie1JpE-LQ78x7QZ_N1yKtsXJU4j-Fv17IL40zaDgxJHhQZlb3ZNSgDVAFv0p088oEpwd6I8EMVNMas TwmTQQBgYkIALvH490EqsRuUM8vN6HuSMb0i5ZHnY0IUv0W3e4 mj9dRURd4A2uX4RtGW4dXOy87Sd1xI7oq7qw40lEJsk-f48GQR48tuiPKavbHbcESl0xkUwwBGWYunuQVimJhftydsN3Fs 8x1l-kghWpssC6sywK7sJtaaaL73BQdcEb26w=w523-h1024-no

After cutting:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DE0djv0mqJS8JzEjHukZCXfb_SvNS_eqtMFEe_7s5NekO6mFq8 fsHRYBH_12q1qjQ92xPirABrmMAPfOygaENXgJxQS6vkJbi0Ne Z3C5boeFnZtC3C23WVB_hsEO_Iz32pLcIPl-WK3ui56g7ZM1JAIkH7NOZv_D-2_gzjxnL3WdZBUEQ_5kncUiGrNVhB1yTK7xVBzzYCR4F3Hu-U3kJTZkNBE_0_XZJmFxfTMtMOG5v9yROXKhPRh8x-grEjaMJ8_57eXKsJ3I6mGKQ1T2Y0gXGpQNBmubxjs066oVyBAs k4ITuRoP1fHY4EcrSrBftLJGJxybM9XdhLHZNQ_lU4Cz6jrFOU q3GH-QeMw43c3lFUOJPHLD5np78EsGBWFzM_z_rh2qO-adBIudCfwFJEyakeSmRjeuASmoEQK6oZAIiNe-_hk7ORWGcRnFQ7ZKvX9vepsjNU0ZSXOR7WtOoUtXwTQ-iUGp-bTMbgzgnALYy6YQLTPTWrCx49D3tOm1oQkPiU0xUinZrDu-5udTmft4QQKiF-l2QoFkNtLBfE57eojRJtlPk0qkh-E8cuz5RMVGT2g_y4aBc6w08X2cJ5FeU8fM208uOJeE-ewUeCSznbRxIRZyi6f7h6lOoWc=w1024-h644-no

Another spacer board to allow cutting the part all around to the bottom. The clamps hold the spacer board in place when the vacuum is turned off to swap parts:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ubGo-nlWemZXsCBasGiWIs8eP0UnYyUZjgCIW0FHSmYrgYHmFW2c4ea gUkTMb8rqOs0ujlS9vyZFEhSFwyPZn8cu02YDVwO7bdY_6psjT 0HM24ewASZ0VpmlyK1y52E_D1BuqVxh1En1zaxXSz09MfF4o5O ebNPeWFemnYDoIISGgxNiMfEwY5Nj-q96DUAbnkNwZMwni4omAAfKl_g63FM-ZxTgvUw4nySx27pIaDPoTFGCdxOVZ6oS1bWCcARzPLpxH2q9MT SN5DkWEeLD-Pt4qdThFqtZZShG83yAMK_zBT7JrBYcUJSN893zCFnMhW74T6-JIGPRuFwZVJ_b-7en4uOAJPId-cMFPgxy9g8rNXeWxlieEC9EbUoiX6Re9LzdOkozGf-PE_7eyO37_6EMxl5FV-j5__IkrAby8Tw90havaDVYb1pQvjO5hEMykauAhsSJaQP4hwlI iajMiXttNKQYgV9dDhytrxG-kUDote6cOqfHkIYBh4nkBwDAPnjEEZMUPciDIxRY6rE4doCcGl ZZ-6ABViZHW-nmXJE_XyzX4FtFLgVADWF2R6AVqw5Vrq09B9J63oqarhvHxqNn 28LLu4tQRr_IJQIE-gjfExCeFOoJ-wPnyGKjlCo=w1600-h1067-no

[bill.young]

I think these clamps from the Kreg pocket screw people are pretty neat:

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c29/bench-clamps/p434/in-line-clamp/

[chiloquinruss]

Here's my setup. 10 years and still works for me. I also use screws, Kreg clamps, and all kinds of weird stuff when necessary but the majority is still my t track system. The spoil board stands proud of the t channels. Russ

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=31993&stc=1 http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=31994&stc=1 http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=31995&stc=1

[JimDav]

Joe and I have had our differences over the years but I think we'll all agree there is no more knowledgeable person on this forum than Joe when it comes to signs...he's an amazingly talented sign artist and it would be a shame for the sign guys to lose access to that information.

Joe...if you're interested in still staying a part of this forum just remember that your experience and interest is in signs and not CNC. Keep in mind that this is a CNC forum, and although there is lots of specific applications discussed on here...like signs...it's main purpose is to share information on CNC techniques. Stick with what you're really good at.

My 2 cents,
Bill
Well stated Bill. I agree 100%

[bobmoore]

What a bunch of tender egos on this forum lately. If I only learned from people that were nice and agreed with me I wouldn't know half of what I do. Take a little and give and little back but don't take it so seriously, it is just cnc work. you are not curing brain cancer.
Bob Moore

[Brian Harnett]

I like pneumatic clamps for production type work they can be set up just about any way.
https://image.ibb.co/noSnmS/DSCN1915.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/cg2sLn/DSCN1896.jpg

Air cylinders running through the table
https://image.ibb.co/ic54im/DSCN1069.jpg

Off the end, great for dovetailing and tenons
https://image.ibb.co/eNjCQc/xfsUiJD.jpg

[Brian Harnett]

Odd rounds clamp
https://image.ibb.co/ne5Cq9/DSCN2261.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/em5Z3U/DSCN2260.jpg

Vac box, clamps to table when needed.
https://image.ibb.co/kZvTV9/DSCN3432.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/nLPNq9/DSCN3434.jpg

[Brian Harnett]

Simple wedge and dowel setup I do have air cylinders that drop in if needed for multiples.

https://image.ibb.co/d1C0A9/DSCN3756.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/bxyJxp/DSCN3755.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/mZK2OU/DSCN3754.jpg

[bleeth]

My main go to was a big noisy radial pump with 8 zones on the table. But then my main business was cutting cabinet parts and whole bed holdown with quick turnaround on processing was key to profits.
Jobs needing the same part held down for a long time while carving it, small parts, boards, and many other specific uses call for very different systems. No one size fits all. (and every responder to this question is likely rolling their eyes at the obviousness of this!!). But for the new person to cnc the answer for your shop will lie in your most common uses. Looking back on the replies so far there are very few examples that I haven't used for specific jobs. I would suggest expanding your question with more information about what your work is and you could unlock a whole different variety of replies that are more tailored to your needs.

[tri4sale]

I think of hold down in the exact same way as forms for concrete. Too little and there's a disaster. Too much and a lot of time is wasted setting them up and taking them down. The "Goldilocks Zone" is where the material won't move with the forces involved with the least amount of effort expended.

I've surfaced numerous slabs and one thing I've found that's a constant. Very little, and I mean VERY little, hold down is required. Here's why:

1. The machine is placing insignificant forces into the material.
2. The workpiece is heavy and has a lot of friction on the table.
3. The action is strictly to remove material from the top.
4. The penalty for movement is nil.

For a slab like that, I would have had a couple of scrap boards just touching it with minimum force. The key is stopping the "activation energy". If the slab is going to move, then it's only going to take a lot of energy to get it to move. All you need to do is stop that initial movement and the piece will stay put. If you don't believe me, try doing your next slab with no hold down on the first pass. Carefully hold it with your hand and feel the amount of force the machine is exerting against the slab. You can probably keep it from moving with a single finger, or none at all.

For surfacing the back side, I cut it down to only using 4, basically one at each side. It was way overkill the first time!! but I was like better safe than sorry. What's the max depth you surface in one pass?

[Brady Watson]

I like pneumatic clamps for production type work they can be set up just about any way.

Brian - nice demonstration of your hold down Kung Fu ~ Right on!

-B

[coryatjohn]

>> For surfacing the back side, I cut it down to only using 4, basically one at each side. It was way overkill the first time!! but I was like better safe than sorry. What's the max depth you surface in one pass?

That depends... Sometimes 1/4". Sometimes 1/8". If the wood is still wet, more. Drier, less. Also, if I'm doing a final pass, I'll take less.

[bking1836]

I would suggest expanding your question with more information about what your work is and you could unlock a whole different variety of replies that are more tailored to your needs.

Great ideas in this thread. Thanks to everyone. Not sure why I have a mental block against vacuum systems, especially considering that tabs aren't a great solution for my work with profiles that aren't square or rectangular.

In response to the good idea of being more specific, here are some of my most common routing scenarios:

1. Routing decorative channels, text or inlays into a board that's already cut precisely to size. I do a lot of trays with inlays of the shape of a lake, state or whatever like this, as well as mirrors with custom shapes:
32007
32008

2. Male inlays. I almost always use walnut thins (.25'-.33"), and especially given the relatively high cost, I want to nest my parts as close as possible. I end up having to use a million screws to keep the walnut from breaking, getting thrown from the table, etc.

3. One of my bench designs has 96 parts cut from 4 pieces of 6" wide by 96" long stock. I need to drill a zillion precise holes and through cut 96 pieces, 2/3 of which are around 2" x 2". I love this bench. But I hate the production process, and I just got another order for one too...
32009
32010

[tlempicke]

Another good thing that I have used over the years is the plastic nail. They use a special nail gun made by Omer and the nails are made by Raptor. Kind of pricey but every time I have used them I have been thankful to have the stuff available.

The plastic nails are quite strong in tension but not so much in shear. So what you do is nail from the back side and when the part needs to be removed from the carrier just smack it sideways with a plastic faced hammer and the nails will break. They sand and take stain pretty well and if you run a bit into one you will not know it.

[bleeth]

Brady has espoused a system in which the object piece has a layer of transfer tape (like the vinyl sign guys use) on the back making it easy to remove later and then double faced tape to hold it down. You would use a "liner" with a smooth face(like a piece of melamine) on your table. Much faster than screws and quite safe.

If you have a belt sander (Table type) you can cut through leaving a skin and then sand the back off leaving your inlay parts.

The bench parts can also be done that way but you would need to start with thicker stock instead of the correct thickness.

I've cut thin veneer by spraying the back and a sacrifice carrier board with a light coat of contact cement and then peel off the finished pieces. May work for your inlay pieces.

There's a couple quick ideas anyway.

[chiloquinruss]

Our live steam park has lots of senior members and as an unfortunate artifact we have several passing's of members during the year. What we have done is set up section of our railroad as a memorial garden. I have elected to do some engraving in the tie material we use as a name plate in honor of the member. The material is like Tek Deck recycled plastic. I use a 1/8th ballnose. Here's the weird jig for doing the engraving. The jig is clamped to the table and the material is clamped on to the jig. Russ

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=32011&stc=1


http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=32012&stc=1

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=32013&stc=1

[BoilermakerAndy]

That's interesting, Joe. I used A CNC for years, screwing the edges to the spoilboard and using tabs. Then I had a different job with no access to CNC for about 8 years. Now I'm back in a position to use a CNC frequently, but decided to try the vacuum system. I made my own plenum from MDF, and built my own vacuum system for probably less than $500, and it is AWESOME! Of course, it does have some limitations, particularly with small parts, but I am really glad I did it. To each his/her own, i guess.....