I should know better

[Rtibbs]

......than to install software and attempt to set up a new machine on a weekend.
Loaded my software for the first time however, it doesn’t seem to be communicating to the machine. Keeps giving me “Control box problem” and will only allow Preview mode.
Oh well, I’ll wait until Monday and let them embarrass me by telling me I don’t have something configured correctly :confused:

[srwtlc]

Did you have the USB cable already plugged in when you installed and opened the software? If so, unplug it and reinstall and chose yes for USB drivers, don't start the software, then plug it in and wait for windows to install the USB driver, then turn on the machine and open the software. Always turn on the controller before starting the software and when shutting down, always close the software first, then the controller.

[chiloquinruss]

Aren't computers just swell! :D Russ

[srwtlc]

Not as swell as trains Russ! :p

We had the "Big Boy" in the area last week. https://www.weau.com/content/news/WATCH-Sights--sounds-of-Union-Pacific-No-4014-steam-locomotive-513169371.html

[Rtibbs]

Aren't computers just swell! :D Russ

You can never find a ten year old youngster when you have a ‘puter problem :)

Thanks for the tips Scott. I’ll give it another try today

Rom

[scottp55]

Ron,
When you do the setup again, make sure you caliper your Z-Zero Plate so you can enter it exactly.
Doesn't hurt to make a Sharpie mark where you measure, so You can Z-Zero on the spot you measured.
Make sure you checkmark the "I have Z proximity switch"...it changes the Z-Zero routine, and makes it easier not to plow into material/clamps on the table when Zeroing X,Y off the proxs, and saves time sticking the dust foot on.
scott

[bill.young]

ShopBot has someone from tech support on duty throughout the weekend, so if you get stuck you can call in and leave a message and someone will get back to you ASAP.

[scottp55]

GLAD Shopbot still has somebody on call duty Bill!!! :)

[Rtibbs]

IT’S ALIVE!!!!!

Apparently when I was “cleaning house” of unwanted files/applications in the laptop I was going to use I deleted a file so the ‘puter wasn’t seeing the USB port. All’s well now and the ‘puter now sees the controller. Luckily, when trying again this morning an error msg. popped up telling me what the file was or I’d probably still be scratching my head (or something else)

Well, the machine is all dusty now. I hate MDF.

Thanks for the insight guy’s.

Ron

[scottp55]

Glad you got it sussed out Ron! :)
Happy cutting!
scott

[Rtibbs]

Well I cut my first piece this morning and all went well. It's going to be a steeper learning curve from my previous machine however, I'll get there.
I do have one question regarding the Spindle warmup routine.
When I run the routine the file comes up as 14 lines and the routine and spindle starts running at line #7 and continues through line #14 with a total run time of ten minutes. During the entire run the spindle maintains the same RPM.
I thought the routine changed rpm and paused briefly during the run. (Maybe I have been looking at the wrong video) :rolleyes:

[scottp55]

Wrong video, as software doesn't control our VFD...we do:)
Hmm....maybe changed the warm up routine?
C5 in command line, and it used to be 9 minutes as shown in pic.
That's what we've been doing for 5 yrs...extreme cold(which neither machine really got to...we started at lower rpms).

I've got an "Egg Timer" app another Desktop friend uses and gave to me....the sound is an Australian Cop Siren....pretty hard to miss:)
You can always just watch the Time Elapsed, and increase then.
Often busy cleaning or getting a cut set up, so start again at rpm I missed....frequently cut at 18K...so I'll give 300 another 3 minutes.

Nice thing about the old Desktops was VFD was facing right....You could find the Sweet Spot by watching/listening to the cut without ever KNOWING what your rpm was, and it worrying about what it "Should" be.....THEN change the file for future reference.

So long as the bit is room temp(or very slightly warm) at the end of the cut,AND it's the finish you want...you're good to go.
Bit is hot or "screaming" during a cut, lower rpm slowly manually. Jagged and chipped out...increase rpms.
Once you have that sweet spot, THEN you can increase feed/and speed proportionally upwards while watching the finish of the cut.
WHEN finish starts degrading..back off about 10% on both...and that's usually where you want to be.

I'll "Tweak" new bits on Sugar Maple(midpoint in my wood hardnesses), and then I know with a new wood whether to be more, or less aggressive.
Clear as mud Ron? :)
scott