johnm
07-09-2006, 10:00 PM
Folks -
Yeegads... More Z trouble! Okay, Rose is creating a round picture frame as a surround for stained glass, so it can be viewed from either side. No real "front" - same carving on each side.
We are milling the frame parts out of 1/2" mdf, and this is only the second job since I've flattened the table. I had each half of the frame panels screwed down next to each other, and they came from the same sheet of mdf - yet when we v bit carved the decorative elements on the face side of each half, one side carved deeper than the other.
We set the final cutout depth at .520 and I checked the depth cut into the spoilboard and it was the same beneath each piece. The thickness of the mdf varied by less than .005...
We are using a 1/2d 90d Vbit for the detail work. I suppose that the bit *could* have slipped to give me a cutline that was precisely twice as wide as I needed, and slipped no further for the duration of the file. If that IS the case, then someone PLEASE suggest some lottery numbers to me ASAP.
I have included a pic showing the faces of the two frame halves side by side and you can clearly see that the carving is deeper/wider on the left portion of the frame. We ran one set of files for both frames, using the 2D offset feature. (Thanks for that tip, Bill Young!)
Now, for the bonus question... The width of the v-bit carving centerlines between two parallel lines .0275 apart, which is narrower than either of the carvings we got. The carving on the left side is about 1/8" and on the right, 1/16...
Our spoilboard consists of three sheets of 1/2" birch plywood, with the first two layers glued and screwed, on an 8" grid then the third sheet of plywood glued and screwed, using brass screws, also on 8" centers (offset 1") then two layers of 1/4" tempered hardboard, glued, and then 8 sheets of plywood on top for about a day and a half whilst the glue dried. The table was then surfaced and I removed .040 to bring it true on the first go round, then I ran a surfacing routine a few days later and it was still flat, straight out... but I took off .010 just on GP.
Our SB has a home built, all welded steel table that weighs nearly 1,000# and I cannot discern ANY flexing of the spoilboard at all. Even if there were some flex, how would carving a 1/16" groove in what amounts to solidified termite barf throw such a wrench into our plans?
I know I may have rambled on a bit here, but we have had more trouble with Z issues than anything else, and to remain polite, it is quite frustrating.
Any ideas?
John & Rose
Lakeport, CA
3932
Yeegads... More Z trouble! Okay, Rose is creating a round picture frame as a surround for stained glass, so it can be viewed from either side. No real "front" - same carving on each side.
We are milling the frame parts out of 1/2" mdf, and this is only the second job since I've flattened the table. I had each half of the frame panels screwed down next to each other, and they came from the same sheet of mdf - yet when we v bit carved the decorative elements on the face side of each half, one side carved deeper than the other.
We set the final cutout depth at .520 and I checked the depth cut into the spoilboard and it was the same beneath each piece. The thickness of the mdf varied by less than .005...
We are using a 1/2d 90d Vbit for the detail work. I suppose that the bit *could* have slipped to give me a cutline that was precisely twice as wide as I needed, and slipped no further for the duration of the file. If that IS the case, then someone PLEASE suggest some lottery numbers to me ASAP.
I have included a pic showing the faces of the two frame halves side by side and you can clearly see that the carving is deeper/wider on the left portion of the frame. We ran one set of files for both frames, using the 2D offset feature. (Thanks for that tip, Bill Young!)
Now, for the bonus question... The width of the v-bit carving centerlines between two parallel lines .0275 apart, which is narrower than either of the carvings we got. The carving on the left side is about 1/8" and on the right, 1/16...
Our spoilboard consists of three sheets of 1/2" birch plywood, with the first two layers glued and screwed, on an 8" grid then the third sheet of plywood glued and screwed, using brass screws, also on 8" centers (offset 1") then two layers of 1/4" tempered hardboard, glued, and then 8 sheets of plywood on top for about a day and a half whilst the glue dried. The table was then surfaced and I removed .040 to bring it true on the first go round, then I ran a surfacing routine a few days later and it was still flat, straight out... but I took off .010 just on GP.
Our SB has a home built, all welded steel table that weighs nearly 1,000# and I cannot discern ANY flexing of the spoilboard at all. Even if there were some flex, how would carving a 1/16" groove in what amounts to solidified termite barf throw such a wrench into our plans?
I know I may have rambled on a bit here, but we have had more trouble with Z issues than anything else, and to remain polite, it is quite frustrating.
Any ideas?
John & Rose
Lakeport, CA
3932