Cut3D - New 3D Model Machining Software

[tony_mac]

Hello Everyone,

We are very pleased to announce the release of our latest product Cut3D. Cut3D is the simplest way to machine 3D models from CAD or Graphics design products such as AutoCAD, Rhino3D, 3D Studio, Silo, Lightwave etc.

Scanned data from laser or touch probe devices such as the ShopBot Probe as well as the vast number of 3D models available off the Internet can also be machined quickly and easily.


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Cut3D is incredibly easy to use and includes roughing, finishing and cut out toolpath strategies, plus high quality 3D preview rendering that make the software perfect for cutting 3D projects.


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Cut3D includes automatic model boundary detection that minimizes cutting times plus interactive tab placement for holding parts in place. Large models that cannot fit under the gantry can be sliced into multiple pieces that can each be machined into thinner material and assembled to produce the finished model.

Please visit the Vectric web site for more information about Cut3D and to download the fully working Trial Version (http://www.vectric.com/WebSite/Vectric/cut3d/c3d_index.htm) that lets you cut the sample models shown above on your ShopBot.

www.vectric.com (http://www.vectric.com)

The Vectric Team

[Brady Watson]

This software is downright awesome! Nice job! (as if I should expect anything less to come from the Vectric team)


-B

[jseiler]

How does one retain registration on the flipping? Does cut3d software help with this in some way?

[Brady Watson]

John,
1st and foremost, whenever you do a double sided (or 4-sided) project you must properly prepare your material. This means precisely cutting the XY dimensions & planing and/or accurately measuring the material thickness. Once this is completed, you can set yourself up for 'the flip'.

You can do this in one of 3 ways:

1) Scribe lines in the X & Y directions that outline the bounding box of your material. Use a sharp pencil tip. If doing a 4-sided model, you will have to scribe lines for sides 'B & D' if the material is not the same thickness on all 4 sides.

2) Place a stop block in the Y-most and X-most extents of your material, and nail or screw the strips/blocks to the spoilboard. After the 1st side is done, clean any sawdust/swarf out of the corners and register your material against the blocks/stops.

3) Create/drill holes into the part & spoilboard to register the part with dowels.

I personally use pencil marks & make sure that I am still lined up with them after I fasten the part down on the 2nd side.

-B

[jhicks]

John, on 2 sided flips we have run by squaring off the lower left X& Y as Brady suggests but find that unless your stock is absolutely pure and exact, there is plenty of room for error. To reduce this tolerance, we have taken to using the centerline of the piece.
So we make a holding fixture, clamp, vacuum, or otherwise hold the piece in place, then with the artwork base X/Y Zero at the center of the artwork, we draw a sharp pencil line around the entire piece Y axis.
Then place the piece in the holding jig/position and draw another matching pencil line along the jig fence rail to match the line on the piece.

Now move your spindle/router bit or a veining bit to be dead on the line on your piece and zero your x right there.
Move to the center of the piece on the Y and center y right there.
Now since we will be only flipping the piece left to right or along the X axis, the same material square edge that rests on the 1st side x fence will be used on the 2nd side along the same fence and matching pencil centerline when its time for side 2.
In the end you split the tolerance so it produces better results than relying on the corner.
Once we flip we send the router over to the xy 0's and very carefully check to see that its DEAD ON THE LINE. To do this we use a laser mounted on the spindle or often its using a V bit so we have a nice sharp end to slowly lower and cut into the outside scrap and see if its DEAD on the line.
Amasingly its often just a very slight NUDGE to get it on but assume it's off even when you eyeball the fence line to the piece centerline and check with the bit tip and a shallow plunge. If you are using a 1/4" end mill for example, you will see immediately if its truly centered or not.

We have cut 2,1/4" complex shapes, curves, corners, 3d, and V carves on double sided pieces using this technique cutting half way through on the outline for side 1, then 1/2 way through on side 2 and outside outline matches on the nose.
Finally we used the same technique and left 1/8" between the top and bottom outside profiles to improve hold down, theb trimmed out the center web with a band saw ant that worked great as well, Just some belt and drum sanding and they came out perfect.

[paco]

The dowel system is very accurate and fool proof once you get the hang at the technique. The only drawback is that it require some more material to place the dowels away from the model; a "problem" mostly with square and rectangle models.

[fleinbach]

I personally prefer the dowel pin method. It is very easy and extremely accurate. I have machined pieces as small as a couple of inches, and as large as a full sheet with excellent results. I usually strive to place the pins in scrap material whenever possible. But I have sometimes through necessity just drilled a quarter inch hole right through the material and patched it later during assembly. 95% of what I do is made of MDF so it is getting painted anyway.

When creating your drawing you need only to locate two holes for alignment. The alignment holes need only be aligned with the X axis or the Y axis whichever you prefer.

[conceptmachine]

does anyone know if cut 3-d will do 2,2 1/2 d as well? i have autocad and solidworks,i just need a good cam package.most of my work will be 2 d but i would like to have 3-d capability any suggestions?
shawn

[paco]

Cut 3D is 3D CAM only... though it'll create cut out toolpath of your 3D model.

You need (want) V Carve PRO for 2D and 2-1/2D toolpathing.

[frank_hav]

I have been using Cut 3D for a couple weeks now and have to agree with Brady. This is an awesome product for the money. The Slicing feature alone is worth the money. Keep in mind though that the models created by the slicing function are .v3d files. They work in the software but nothing else I know of. I import .stl files from solidworks with no problems. I've also cut some files from VectorArt with the same great results.

Frank

[rhfurniture]

Hi,
Just bought cut3d because the trial did a path beautifuly that I couldn't get with mill-wizard. Of course I had to buy it to post the cutfile.
BUT BUT BUT
On loading the stl file (or 3ds or V3d saved from trial version) it gave up the ghost with:
"Cut3d generated errors and is being closed by windows."
I've reloaded all at default, redownloaded, rebooted etc etc, but NO GO.
It worked bOOtiful in the trial version.
What can I do?
I've posted on the vetric forum, and will email them, but this is an urgent job, so any help most appreciated.

R.

[rhfurniture]

OK, just found out it was an openGL issue with my Matrox P650 graphics card - it works with hardware accellaration switched off. Hope they can fix it soon. Strange that it was OK with the trial.

R.

[tony_mac]

Hi Ralph,

Sorry for the inconvenience this has caused.

We have a newer build of Cut3D that should fix your graphics card problem and allow you to run the software without having to change the hardware settings.

I've e-mailed you directly.

For reference, the Trial version of Cut3D defaults to running with SoftwareOpenGL Shading and should run on any hardware.

Regards,
Tony

[rhfurniture]

Thanks Tony.
Sorry, but if you emailed me at work over the weekend, I got in this morning to 320 spam and deleted it without thinking. Could you kindly resend?

Thanks,
R.

[cabindoors]

I'm not having any luck opening .sbp files into
Cut3D. The files were created using the touch probe.

Any suggestions?

Tom

[paco]

I believe (at least other 3D CAD need it) you need to convert the file first with 'Probe to surface translator'. This a utility that you can (should) find with TB command from within SB3 (that's Tools - Probe to surface translator) or from this path 'C:\Program Files\ShopBot\Virtual Tools\Probe to Surface\Probe2Surface.exe'

Save as surface DXF.

Take a moment to study the utility FAQ from it's folder.

That should do the trick for the conversion part.

[tony_mac]

Tom,

Email the probe file to - support@vectric.com (mailto:support@vectric.com) - and we will take a look.

Tony

[cabindoors]

Thanks Paco for the fast reply!

I see that I've been using SB3.1.14 for my PRT.
So I'll download SB3.4.27 (I think that this is
the latest version that will work on my machine).
Vers. SB3.1.14 didn't have the TB command for calling up Probe2Surface.exe.

I hope that this newer version will have it.

Thanks again.

Tom

[cabindoors]

Tony,

Thanks for your reply. I'll send you the file
that I'm trying to load into Cut3D. It's the trial version, but I need to know whether it will work before I buy.

Thanks again, Tony.

Tom

[cabindoors]

I've spent about a day building a tool data base for VCarve Pro.

I can't seem to use this file in Cut3D. Does anyone know how to do this without reintering all of the bits again. It would also be nice to use my VCarve Pro texture file in Cut3D.

Tom

[Brian Moran]

Tom,

I'm afraid you cant use your tool database from VCarve Pro with Cut3D. Later versions of VCarve Pro added support for form tools and a number of other tool types which are not supported by Cut3D.

When you say 'VCarve Pro texture file' are you refering to the bitmap textures for rendering the preview or toolpath texturing?

If you are refering to the bitmap texture, simply copy the texture file to

C:\Program Files\Cut3D\Textures\1_Materials

where the other textures live and restart the program.

To use toolpath textures you will need to take the toolpaths from Cut3D into VCarve Pro and add the textures in VCarve Pro.

Brian

[paul60]

i need to clear something up.
i have vcarvepro . i have only worked in 2d.
i have been asked to make a rudder for a sail boat
this rudder is about 42 inches long by 18 wide.
with a taper on the width starts off at 2.5 and taper to 1/2 inch i can design this on turbocad 3d
rudder will be made in two halves.
can this be cut on vcarvepro or do i need cut 3d?
any help would be appreciated
thanks paul

[seana]

Paul,
Your going to need cut 3d.
it is a great product for the price.
If you don't want to purchase it you could send somebody your 3d file and they could create the tool paths for you.
Just a thought.

Sean

[paul60]

thanks Sean for the advise will look into it
do you have cut 3d?
paul

[seana]

Yea, i have cut 3d.Infact i got it to do a similar project to yours. I had to do a dagger board for a guy building a sailboat. I milled both sides and he was (along with me)happy with the finish product. You may want to rethink the milling the 2 sides and then gluing together.
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Here is the finish made out of cedear.

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I found making the model the hardest part just because i had never drawn something like this in 3d before. The grove part is for the carbon fiber during the fiberglassing.

Sean