Can it fix this?

[applik]

I am trying to find a software that will enable me to make 3D without cutting lines across another object. I have attached a pic of the horns. You can see where the carving goes across the back horn. I wouldn't mind a little dip for depth but not a whole cut across it. What software will enable me to do this type of engraving and set up depths to my liking easier?
I know you guys out there know what these packages will really do. I need some serious input.
4010

[Brady Watson]

I use ArtCAM Pro to do this sort of thing all the time. If you cannot afford it, pay someone to prepare the file for you.

This is a real quick rendition of what you have there...but I think you will get the general idea. It's hard to get a good view of where the 2 antlers blend within 25k & 400pixels...

What program are you using now?


4011


-Brady

[artisan]

As Brady has suggested, Artcam will easily take care of your problem.....but there are many, many other applications for modeling this just as well for 1/5 the price of Artcam. If you already have the 3D model, Visualmill Basic will allow you to edit your toolpaths and delete the lines you don't like. You can model the object in Rhino or several other 3D products if you don't yet have the 3D file. I often recommend the site COMPUTERSCULPTURE.Com for an insightful look as to what is available as well as some of the better pricing available. Good Luck....D

[Brady Watson]

From the looks of the screenshot that Shari posted...it appears that she may already have ACPro...

-B

[applik]

Brady,
I do not have ACPro. I'm sure that would be a dream come true! I just bought a CarveWright machine and do all my drawings and artwork in Corel Draw with contouring, etc and then export as a bmp to bring into the CW software. It adjusts the height according to the greyscale in the contouring. Black being the lowest point in the carving. In order to have the carving set on the "floor" of the wood I have to contour from black up. It's looks great on paper but the bit just carves right through the very dark colors. I can't seem to get the heights adjusted through Corel so I'm seriously considering another software and just buying a ShopBot. The CW machine will not accept files from anything other than their software so I would have to have both a machine and software alternative. But with a ShopBot I would be able to do much larger pieces of wood. I have a lot of my own drawings I want to carve but I feel I'm hitting a brick wall at the moment. I can't truly justify the price tag for ACPro so I am looking at VS3D. It seems to be compatible with what I have in mind. I don't want to run a production shop. I just want to turn my artwork into 3D carvings in wood. I have two CO2 lasers and I understand you have to have just the right mix of software and hardware for the job you want to do. I really don't want to job out my files. I'd rather be able to have complete control and tweak each one as I want. If you all have better ideas, please let me know.
This is such a great forum. By the way; how deep can you carve with a bot?

[Brady Watson]

Shari,
With some ingenuity and the right software, you can carve just about ANY design at just about ANY size. You can break up 3D parts into managable slices and machine them in pieces. Then go back and glue them all together to achieve the finished part. You will most likely be limited to a max of 3" per slice on a ShopBot.

Using a CNC router is much different than a laser or the CW machine in the sense that nearly ALL toolpaths are generated from vector lines or vector point clouds. You CAN do exactly what you are already doing on the ShopBot using the built-in Bitmap to ShopBot Part File conversion utility. Unlike bitmap generated designs, vectorized designs can be scaled up or down without losing any detail and you get a much smoother finish right off of the machine.

Be sure to fully try out any software that you are considering buying before you plunk down your hard earned cash. In general, you get what you pay for in the software department. I mentioned subbing out the software portion of 3D designs because it is affordable. By taking advantage of the affordability for a little while, you can sell more jobs and make more money that will help you to afford the software that you need.

Hope that helps!

-B

[gene]

Shari.
You should see some of the work done by Darrell Blanton. He has some posted on the forum but i cant rememember where it was . Maybe someone can tell you . His work is remarkable . Gene

[mikejohn]

Shari
To see some of Darrells amazing work, go
here (http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/show.cgi?tpc=2&post=31692#POST31692).

...............Mike

[applik]

Gene,
Darrell really does some awesome things. I doubt I'll ever get to that point. I just want to carve 1/4 - 1/2" deep into wood. Might even try cutting out a design or two since they say you can do that on Bots.
I'll keep looking at software and see if I can get trial versions until I decide what will work the best for me (or I hope it will).
Thanks,
Shari

[mikejohn]

Shari
If you can imagine it, software can create the toolpaths, and the Shopbot can cut it. For true 3D you need an indexer or similar, but for 2 1/2D, relief carving without undercuts, the Shopbot will do it fine.
Choose the right software and I'm sure you would soon be cutting away.

...............Mike

[billp]

Mike,
This is NOT neccessarily true. If you go to the Shopbot Flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/campshopbot/ I have posted the latest pictures from the Southern California Camp. On there you will see a few pieces which were carved by Phil Mulligan. They are defineately 3D but they were NOT carved on an indexer. Instead he drew up the files as "four sided"and turned a rectangular piece of stock (manually) on his table to get the final results, VERY clever stuff...By the way,the purpose of this project was to prove to a friend that you COULD do this kind of work without an indexer...

[mikejohn]

Er! um! Bill, that is what I meant by 'similar'. Something that can expose different sides to the bit.
It has been pointed out to me very close to home that native English speakers are not always completely understood when speaking 'pure' English.
I wil take more care in future.

.........Mike

[mikejohn]

Thanks for pointing out those pictures.
Does he have a special jig to turn the piece? Is the piece held at either end as in a lathe?
How does he register his turn at exactly 90º? I am assuming he does make 4 90º turns.

This could well help me out with a problem I face at this moment.

............Mike

[billp]

Mike,
Phil only explained that he made a jig to insure that his piece was aligned properly as he made the manual turns. I believe he felt the key to the entire process was to have software which allowed "true" 3d modelling (in this case he used Solidworks). Most of us were SO boggled by the pieces themselves that we didn't think to ask the logical questions...
I know that Phil is a regular reader of this Forum, so a search might find his e-mail address somewhere. HE would be the proper one to answer any follow up questions...

[applik]

Mike,
So I guess what I'm wanting to carve is actually 2 1/2D relief. I can see I will have fun learning all the "terms" used in this line of carving. I've used my laser for this a little bit, but too much burn for my satisfaction. And it's not that deep. I want to be able to get up to 1/2" deep in the wood. I'll just keep learning as I go.
Thanks,
Shari
Arizona

[mikejohn]

Bill
Thanks. Its an interesting concept.

Shari
2 1/2D is what it seems to be called, but not liked by the purists


I was maybe a little rash in suggesting that anything you imaging can be done on the Shopbot, as you do need the right bit, or bits, and it has to be cut in a practical time.
But if you are willing to do a little hand finishing, I am sure you can achieve almost anything.
My rocking horses come off the shop bot as unfinished slices. The final shaping is all done by hand. Not because the shopbot couldn't do it, but because the time would be enormous, and we like the differences hand finishing gives.
Rocking horses are, of course, 3D.
Bill's post above does show how true 3d can be achieved by 2 1/2D methods, which is very interesting.
It is my opinion that, with enthusiasm and the right skills, plus the right software, you can achieve practically any shape.

Take the plunge, the waters lovely

And many people here will be delighted to help you step by step through the way.

...............Mike

[artisan]

First, thanks for the kind words from Gene, Mike and Shari....next....Shari, try this. Using Coreldraw, weld your vectors together where the antlers cross using the shape flyout tool. Next, using the freehand drawing tool, add back the lines that were lost in the welding, but assign them a higher gray value. This should trick the software into doing what you want.

The other possibilty is to assign the whole forward antler lighter colors than the rear one. Since the machine won't do undercuts, you should still achieve the 2.5D effect your after. In other words, don't use black for the outline of the forward antler....use a mid to lower gray....D