Checkering and gun stocks

[cknerr]

Hi,
I'm looking into getting a Shopbot to help me. My business is making custom gunstocks. So far all by hand. Time to join the 21st Century? There are 2 concerns I hope you can clarify for me. The 1st one is checkering. Since the shopbot will be carving the stock to begin with, I hope it can at least lay these patterns out. I expect to finish the patterns by hand. Just need some of the major work (roughing) done by the Shopbot. The second part is scanning the pertinant area of an existing stock and then laying out a pattern on it. Since crossing the 50 year old line, my joints just don't seem to do the same thing as 30 years ago....so - hope this can help. I am assuming the Shopbot will have little trouble roughing out a stock blank to near finished diminished.


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The 2nd concern is scanning metal parts and then inletting them into the wood. This includes some tricky metal shapes like muzzle loaders have. Pics avaialbe if needed.

Can the proper software and the Shopbot help me?

Don't know if I can post my website here. It might create problems with advertising. If the moderator will let me know if I can- I'll post it. The gallery will help explain/show some of the problems.
Thanks in advance for you advice!
Chris

PS: use to be an engineer, so familiar with 3D drafting

[harold_weber]

Chris's website is given in his profile if anyone wants to look at his work.

I tried something that might be called checkering a few years ago. The wood was steamed walnut sapwood, and I was unable to get really fine sharp points in the "checkering" (the pointed tops would occasionally break off). Had to settle for what I would call "flat-top" checkering. Results might be better with fine-grained heartwood. This sample was done on a PRT with 3.6:1 steppers, now that I have 7.2:1 steppers and Gecko drives I might be able to do a bit better. Anyone else care to show any checkering they have done using the ShopBot? I think I used a 60 degree Vee bit to cut my sample.

To give you an idea of size, the sample shown is 5 inches long.

The tough part for me was working out how to get the checkering design projected on the the curved surface.

Chris, your top photo seems to show checkering that might wrap all the way around the stock behind the lever, not sure how to do that with a 3 axis machine even with an indexer (you will need to have the cutting tool more or less perpendicular to the surface).


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[cknerr]

yes!
and that is on a curved surface...
The flat topped diamond style of checkering is called English style. Sugary or really soft grain is a problem. The only way I get around it is to soak the offending area in finish and "glue" things together. Then press on with the work. The finish penetrates a little and holds the wood together. for really bad wood, I dissolve lexan/plexiglass (can't remember which one) in acetone and soak it in. Then I am working with plastic that diesappears under just about any finish. These trick works for any problems areas you are trying to carve very fine details with sharp edges.

I intend on using a 4 axis version. There is not an accurate way to reposition the stock when you flip it over to carve the other side. ...and as you correctly pointed out, that checkering wanders all over and can cover both sides as well as continue unbroken over the bottom/top of the stock too.

Thanks for the pics!
Chris
PS: this thing have a spelling checkering? lol