ArtCam Toolpath bit change

[applik]

The bot is up and running. We have experiments with the moves and carved the shopbot logo on a scrap piece. Have made several relief designs and am ready to carve; just need to make the sbp toolpaths in AC. I did searches on both forums and could not find info on this. Even the online manual does not tell me how the shopbot is going to react even when I run a preview mode, I cannot tell where (or if) I'm going to get a chance to do a bit change. It probably does but I'm still a novice and do not understand what I'm looking for.

1st question: Do I have to do two separate toolpath files for the bot in order to use two different bits. ex: to use a roughing bit first go, then tapered end mill to finish.

2nd question: Does the shopbot stop and let you change bits in the middle of a file automatically or is this something I have to program from shopbot software?

3rd question: If I can change bits in the middle of a program, how do I reset the Z-0 to compensate for the differentlengths of bits.

I'm sure I'll learn all this in time, but this machine is big and loud and just a TINY bit intimidating at the moment!!! I would prefer to be it's master instead of slave; so any light you can shed on this will help.

Thanks,
Shari

[paco]

1)Unless you have an ATC (automatic tool changer), yes. With an ATC post processor, you would be just watching the whole process.
If you have two independent Z, then I believe something "automatic" is possible but I have to let someone else chime in on this. Still, that would mean a maximum of two bits/tool change.

2)Depends on the above. Have a look at the programing stuff. By default, most of this is up to you.

3)With a good reference; gage block, fix location, the idea is to zero each tool at the VERY same height.

Let us know a little more about your machine setup and your current project(s).

[trakwebster]

I've only been actually using my shopbot for a month or so, but have had good results with this basic procedure --

1) At the beginning of the day, home the machine. This many not be necessary, but I find it reassuring.

2) Insert a bit and zero out the z-axis on the mounted work piece.

3) Go to a specific home location.
4) Go to the centerline or the left lower corner of the part to be made (depending on how the model was constructed)
5) Cut everything that's to be cut on that model with that one particular bit.

6) Go load a different bit, and zero out the z-axis on the workpiece.
7) Repeat steps 3 through 5 with the new bit.

This procedure also means that you never have the shopbot running something and in abeyance while you attempt to precisely load a new bit at exactly the right height, which seems pretty much impossible to me.

And, I like it because it breaks down the jobs into smaller pieces. My motto is: small pieces for my small mind.

[applik]

Paco: I'm clueless as to what you mean by look at the programming stuff. Am I looking for a particular line of code somewhere? I am running a PRT Alpha 48 with one Z. Planning on making it a 96 once we get the hang of it. I was trying to find out if I create two tool paths (such as one roughing and one finishing) and merge in AC - then output to SBP file - does the shopbot stop and wait for you to manually put in the next bit?

Arthur: What you are saying is that you break the toolpaths into separate shopbot files according to what is being done with one bit, yes? I could do this but I was worried about the registration always being exact.

I'll run a few little test files and see what happens. I just didn't want to break bits or damage the machine.

Thanks guys,
Shari

[Brady Watson]

Shari,
No. If you have a toolchanger you can merge the 2 files. If YOU are the toolchanger, just save 1 file for each tool (using your example) and when the 1st toolpath is complete, the tool will stop. There is no msgbox that pops up to tell you to change a tool. You then change your bit, run the C2 command to zero out the new bit (z-axis) and run the 2nd file.

I think you asked this question before, is what I wrote clear?

-Brady

[applik]

Brady,

Clear as water, thanks. That's what I wanted to know. I'll give it a try today. I now have another title to add to my name - tool changer. lol

once I get past my confusion I think this is going to be fun,
Shari

[jhicks]

Shari, something I tend to do may help.
1st as indicated earlier "You are the tool changer" so each tool means a separate tool path and back to your XYZsafe or 0/0
Change the tool and rezero z at the same location as the last one on your piece. Make a small pencil mark or just always go to 6x6y for example every time assuming the part is held firmly in place and flat.
As far as too change, sometimes when I name a file it will include the bit and the sequence intend to run it in. For example the 1st file might be a 1/2" end mill. That file might be named A.5em Next file may be 1/8" ball nose. So I name it B.125BN. That way I don't forget sequence or bit and can refer to files for reference later or in the future.
You'll develop you own comfort zone but create a method and file system you like and refer to on the fly to prevent too much confusion next week when you want to re run that file. Also recommend you save each new art file either by revision number or date in its own PC folder so you don't lose track of what you've done until you have it where you want it. Then go back and decide to keep or delete old versions. Next month when you want to see "how did I do that other one" you'll have a reference for that bit, speed, feed, material etc. to refer to.

[applik]

Jerry,

That's a great idea. I've designed my own info files over the years for the laser and embroidery machine so the wood cutting could be along the same lines. I do keep a pretty good electronic filing system with thousands of files in them. It is hard to remember what you did last year on a particular file: the info docs will truly make it a piece of cake.

I'll have to try the zero in the same place. That's probably a critical thing. We've still got to order a dust collector, so I'm off to do some archive searching on what the bot people say works the best. Since ours will be in the same room as the bot, want something fairly quiet.

It's a good thing I just bought a good supply of dvd's for file backup. Those AC files are growing right off my hard drives. I have to say I really like the version 9 with layers. Now I don't have to save each item as a separate relief anymore. I just go in and highlight which layer I want to save.

Thanks again guys for all the info. I hope someday I'll be able to be of help to someone as well.

Shari

[steve4460]

Hi Shari
Check out the Jet 1100 cfm model you can get it at Menards for about $300.00 . Thats what I am using and it works great . The router makes mor noise then the dustcollectore.

Bot on

SV

[trakwebster]

I'm very happy with the dust collector I bought from Penn State. It's model DC1BXL w/ 1 micron filter cartridge & collection bags. (Rather than having two bags up and down, it has a fine cleanable filter above and a removable plastic bag below, so you can just carry the dust out to the trash.) It cost $310.

But they have the same machine with a bag above and a bag below, for only $239.

See http://www.pennstateindustries.com

I've also been happy with an air filter I bought from them. When these two are running, there is darn little sawdust on the floor or in the air.