Prismatic Lettering Question revisited?

[john_l]

I don't know if I have read them all, but I have read a bunch of the posts regarding prismatic lettering with various software titles.

I am currently just doing a V beveled edge looking letter (with flat faces). I still want to get closer to a true, level height centerline, V prismatic lettering.. like I ususally carve by hand over the years. I'm sure some here know what I mean... the centerline of the strokes.. the highest point of the prismatic V doesn't change height. Actually in my hand version, I change it a little sometimes, for aesthetics, but it's mostly the same height.

I have seen a demo of ArtcamPro in the last year and the demonstrator couldn't get it to do it without the screwy looking serif treatments and the big changes in centerline height. I had a buddy show me EnRoute's version and it wasn't quite right either (for the font selected anyway) and it generated a toolpath that would have taken forever. I don't know what versions these programs were. I have never seen Profile Lab.

I love my Vcarve Pro for incised work, profile work, and the tooling textures and truly hope Vectric may be working towards this. Have I missed any recent definative on doing this easily? If you are getting good results.. what software, and what is your process for doing it?

[joe]

John,

I'm a little late picking up on this message but thought I'd put a word in.

I full well understand your problem with machineing fonts correctly. I've posted from time to time on the topic. Your right neither ArtCam or EnRoute will do correct prism letters without going to full 3D.

For those not initiated to the problem, here goes. When carving a thick and thin letter, lets say Times Roman Bold with a V Bit, the serifs are sacrificed, mowed down. The problem is really pronounced with very thick and thin letters such as "Poster Bodeni". Also the bit will NOT come up in the corners making them sharp. It just wallows around the inside. A good example would be on any "M". The inside corners will be all wonked out. Looking like it was done by a child. For that reason I do most of these with a sharp chisel. It's fun too.

Both programs will do a good job with 3D. If you have the time and patience and MONEY.

[john_l]

Thanks Joe.

Like you , but not as good as you I'm very sure, I actually can do it by hand. I guess it's actually a good thing afterall... that they still need me for something around here. Thanks for the response.

[joe]

John,

I'm sure you can make these subtle alterations. My technique goes like this. After the type is set, I use Flexi but any graphic program will work, I convert the copy to a graphic file which has nodes. Node editing is the trick

You can go into the corners of the letters and drag the nodes away. This leaves you with extra carveable corner material.

Aso if you want the the serifs to maintain their height and thickness, select all the top and bottom nodes and scoot them away from the letter. By doing a group select, you can move them away all together.

I know most SBers aren't in this league, but to the few lettering carftsmen like John, keep up the quality. Don't settle for wonky letters.

I'd like to suggest a lettering website. Check out the Gallery. www.lettervillefonts.com (http://www.lettervillefonts.com)

Joe

[joe]

Woops

www.letterheadfonts.com (http://www.letterheadfonts.com)

[john_l]

I like Flexi over here too Joe. I'm on 8.1 now but started with 2.0 on floppy disks... they got a bunch of money out of me over the years.

I'll try and follow your lead. Thanks very much for the tips.