Porter Cable vs Milwaukee

[ribbons@newformresearch.com]

I have used the PC 3 1/4hp on my Shopbot but it is extremely noisy. I'm considering the Milwaukee 3 1/4hp unit. It is a new design and should be a lot quieter.

Has anyone used the Milwaukee and does anyone know when Porter Cable is going to launch a new 3 1/4 model which should be a lot quiter than the current unit?

Happy New Year
John M.

[paco]

Nop!
Still waiting for someone to try it... I'm now into "discusion" with my power tool supplier and he think to that the PC7518 have a problem but the Delta rep. here in Québec think not!?!? We are looking to get this fixed... or for another router model that would surely be the 3 1/4HP Milwaukee. I plan to test this late or a Bosh model soon... I'll keep the forum informed of my findings and observations...
Happy new year!

[billp]

I've got a "test" Milwaukee clamped into my Alpha ( loaner from a friend), but I broke one of the Z springs and I want to get it replaced so I have all systems as they should be before I do any testing. Shopbot said I'll have the replacement this week.
Here's what I have learned so far though; the body of the Milwaukee is only about .01" smaller than the PC so by using simple piece of flashing as a shim I had enough meat to tighten down on the router clamp supplied with the machine ( see picture one.).
One thing which might be a problem; as you'll see in the second picture, the way the power cord comes out of the router body is an awkward fit in the Alpha router bay. The cord is opposite the mouting arm which is normally used to connect the router with the base. The problem is that when the router is in that region where there is a lot of up/down near the "Y" gantry the power cord keeps rubbing/snagging under the gantry. The obvious solution would be to pivot the router so that the power cord connection is out in "clear air"on an angle about 45 degrees from where it not site. Problem; that puts the mounting handle directly in the path of the "Z" rollers and the machine gets physically jammed at that point..
Most obvious solution would be to just cut the handle off, and get on with things. But as this one is a loaner I want to first convince myself the switch over is justified before I begin a "handlelectomy" (sp?)...Another option might be to just firmly clamp the power cord to the body with a hose clamp, I'll try it all....
Once I get the Z spring in I'll start the real tests..
4799
4800

[paco]

Bill, first, thanks for sharing that with us!
Did you absolutly needed to shim to get a good grab on the router?... curious... 0.01" is'nt much...
Could the cord (and it's "protecting fit") be fit along between the Z rails, attached to the free upward holes (red) or pass at left (other side; green)? I guess yo thought of this but... curious... or turn the router body 180° (from your pic; purple), having the handle the other side with the cord there with room...?

4801
Did you start it yet? How is the noise out of it? Is it getting any hot?... as PC7518?!

[billp]

Paco,
Yes I've tried all of the above, and none give the kind of free access I'd like. I think this is solveable though... The shim WAS necessary on my mounting, or else the Milwaukee could move.
The Milwaukee is quieter in a side by side test, and there are a few more speed options available due to the "variable" factor. I haven't run it under load yet to see the operating temperatures. More to follow as I learn anything..

[paco]

Well, thanks again Bill!
I don't know about yours but my 7518 get hot without any load, in less than few minutes... I demonstrated my power tool reseller on one he got in store and it was the same; chuck got hot in less than 2 minutes... VERY HOT... he first said that it is normal... so I replied "...to needed gloves to change tool bit and/or collet?! What about the durability of the tool bit; we both know it need to stay as cool as possible to last long!" He then replied that I was right!! We both agree that one can expect better from that kind of price tool...
Anyway I'll be looking for another router brand/model...
How much would you need to cut/remove of the handle to fit it at the Z rails? Could the router mounting be shimed?

[billp]

I have now tried the Milwaukee router for a couple of projects, and it is easily a better machine than the PC ! I've cut Trupan, plywood, and PVC, and the router was quieter and smoother than the PC ( it should be noted though that I am also comparing a new machine against two older ones), BUT even when they were new they didn't sound this good. Even the edge quality was noticeably better. If I were going to repower one of my machines with a router I would not hesitate to make the switch. I think the minor "surgery" required with the handle, etc. is a small price to pay for the benefits gained..

[paco]

THANKS BILL!
Enought info. to convince me!!!
Though I would look further about the "surgery thing" since this will surely affect warranty...

[billp]

FOR SALE !!!!!
The Milwaukee router pictured above is now for sale. My friend and I both bought Colombo spindles and so he no longer has a need for this unit. It has been used three times ( by me to do the test cuts mentioned above) and is in "as new" condition. There is NO base for it as he originally intended it to be used on his CNC machine ( and you wouldn't need it for yours either...).Two collets are included; 1/4" and 1/2". His asking price is $250 and his name/contact info follows; Tony - nappy1@optonline.net (mailto:nappy1@optonline.net)
I think this is a good deal for anyone looking to repower their machine . And by the way Porter Cable wrenches also fit the Milwaukee

[ribbons@newformresearch.com]

Has anyone seen test results for the PC and Milwaukee relating to runout? If the Milwaukee has less runout, this could be the reason for the better edge.

[ribbons@newformresearch.com]

I finally tried the Milwaukee and it is very nice indeed. Cutting up a new machine is somewhat intimidating but it wouldn't fit with the depth guide attached!! My problem now is to make one of my dual layer dustshoes work with the Milwaukee. Progress but it still blows a fair amount of dust.

[paco]

When motor cooling blow is a problem...


4802

Removing the adjustment screw would have been easier by simply... removing it... how do you plan to justify for warranty?!


4803

Still;

How do you like to collet?

Do you find it less noisy?

How do like ALL the speed settings?

Have you open it to see how easy it is to repair?

[jay_p]

All,

I changed over to a Milwaukee this week too. I had the sheet metal shop roll a piece of 24ga to use a shim and it seemed to be the right thickness. This router is a lot quiter than the PC. I like the collets, though I don't believe that they make a 3/8" collet. I have always liked Milwaukee motors.
Thanks for all the forum input, and thank you Paco for the photos.

Jay

[marshawk]

I think that I am going to buy one of these routers and test it out. A couple of concerns:

1. The brushes as pictured in the parts list look about 1/2 as long as the ones for the PC router. We change our brushes every three weeks or so when the machines are running steadily. I am concerned that I would have to change brushes more often or in the middle of a large project.

On the other hand, the brushes are a little more than 1/2 the price of the PC brushes.

2. The replacement parts list is not complete. I don't know if they plan on filling the list eventually. There are brushes and bearings available which should allow for two to three years of operation, but there is no armature available. The armature for the PC router is available The cost of the bearings are pretty cheap as compared to the PC.

I can keep the PC routers running indefinitley with the replacement parts, I don't know if I will be able to do the same with the Milwaukee.

Just the same, I am probably going to test one anyway...

Chip

[marshawk]

Oh, by the way...here is the parts list:

http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/milwaukee/5625-29_395A

[marshawk]

One more thing...

Does anyone know why the 5625-20 router with all of the bells and whistles costs $50 less than the 5625-29 motor?

I can't see a difference except that the one that comes with fewer parts costs more

Chip

[paco]

4804 Sure strange...

Chip,

check with your local power tool supplier; I remember someone contacting me about this router and paid less for only the motor...

[brian_harnett]

Well my 13 year old PC 7518 bearings are wearing out
(I had this router before my bot) so I orderd a Milwaukee to try out along with a rebuild kit for the PC, a quieter router would sure be nice.

[jeffreymcgrew]

Hey, just a note, I'm right in the middle of buying a new router for my 'bot, and you can order the Milwaukee one sans mounting from Amazon and other on-line tool suppliers. So you can get just the motor, and save a few bucks. I'm certain that you could get the PC one the same way, but I haven't found a place online that has it that way (yet).

[bill_l]

I just finished the transition today. Purchased the Milwaukee from the Tool Crib at Amazon.com. Bought the complete router for less. The installation required removal of the adjustment screw and the addition of four 2 5/8" x 13" strips of standard .078 flashing around the router for mounting. The process took about 30 min and it was well worth it. Noise level is significantly lower.

As well, I replaced my PC bearings with 2 SKF double shielded bearings (6202 2ZJEM @ $11.46 and 6005 2ZJEM @ $25.92 from Applied Industrial Technologies - www.applied.com (http://www.applied.com)). Mike Richards outlined the procedure in another post (Porter Cable Heat), and when followed it can be completed in about 30 to 45 min.

[brian_harnett]

I have installed my Milwaukee and first impressions so far are good.
The router is definitely quieter
the cut is smooth, but I never had a complaint on that issue with the porter cable either.
I did notice the top armature bearing is a lot smaller than the PC one, time will tell if that's an issue.
I am installing an hour meter to the router to track it's service life.
Quiet is very nice!

[dingwall]

I picked up a Milwaukee router yesterday, it has protection circuitry when the power is cut (via software) requiring the switch to be manually turned off for 3 seconds and then turned back on.

I need to bypass this safety feature, without losing the variable speed and soft-start. Anyone know how to do this?

[dingwall]

I'll answer my own question. It looks like the problem stems from our solid state relays.

[guest (Unregistered Guest)]

Just curious, are these routers being used as the main "spindle" or are they the secondary Z? I'm plannong to buy an SB but was wondering about the performance of a router for cabinet nesting. Thanks

[paco]

Huummmm... I actually use my CAD/CAM to nest parts... and the router motor for cutting it...
4805

[dingwall]

Problem solved with the relays. A simple resistor was all it took.

I can't speak for anyone else, but yes the Porter Cable and the Milwaukee were/are being used for the main spindle.

IMO, the Milwaukee is a much better router.