How would you machine this?

[rcnewcomb]

The original was carved by hand with an Xacto knife. The carving is fairly shallow - perhaps 0.0635" to 0.100" deep. It seems like I may have to turn the piece several times.

Aside from getting a 5-axis machine, what approaches would you take?

4871

[rb99]

That would bug me playing it.

Leave it off...

RB

[landdesign]

I think it can be done by working on a good design... maybe break the design into 3 or 4, maybe more pieces. each piece would be cut with the neck in its own jig that would hold it at the right angle. the proper tool choose would be critical too. you might have to charm Fred at Centurion to make you a true Ball shaped cutter to allow you to cut further around the side of the neck. I do simpler things on corbels, so it CAN be do with a little effort.

Erik

[myxpykalix]

I'm just wondering if you couldn't make some type of holding jig and cut it on an indexer?

[rcnewcomb]

How would sandblasting work on something like this? I don't need to go very deep. To do one of these by hand takes about 12 hours.

The wood species will be mahogany, black walnut, or hard maple.

[garyb]

For a quick and easy cut I would draw a line from what looks to be a maple inlay (middle of radius) to the bottom 90° corner in the center photo.
Rotate that line to the horizontal plane and build a jig for the angle then cut it.

[mikeacg]

If I had to do alot of these I would build or buy a small duplicator. It would give you the range of motion required to do this. I have a full size Duplicarver but I know they make a small, tabletop version. Here's the site: http://www.terrco.com/t110.php There are other manufacturers out there if you don't have the skillset to build one.

Mike

[guy_mathews]

I would make 4 of them at one time on the indexer. Depending on how accurate your 3D model is, simply mirror the object leaving room for bandsaw kerf. At this point, generate containment fields and pocket finish the part, rotating 90 degrees each time. I would start with a half inch ball mill to rough out and finish with either 1/16 or 1/32 inch ball mill. Make sure your feed speed is low for final finish and your Ramp Values are set at .4 or less for the most accuracy.
I am new to ShopBot forum, however I have been programming my Shopbot for 3 years now and have two other CNC machines under my belt. To learn more about me, you can checkout the skull on Shopbot's Spotlight on Shopbotters or see me at www.camheads.org (http://www.camheads.org), user id GJMATHEWS.
I offer laser scanning services as well. Good luck with your project.
BTW, if you do not have an indexer, you can do this on a 3 axis as well. It is involved, but it can be done with very good results. The inlay can be added in by using an end mill and engraving along a curve to a depth of about an eigth of an inch. Apply glue and gently push the correct thickness stock into the cutout.

http://www.camheads.org/member.php?u=190 This link will bring you to my photo albums at camheads. You may need to register to view them, Registration is free.

I run a ShopBot, with 4th Axis, a CAMaster 5 by 10 with ATC (Auto tool changer) and a 10 spindle CNC carving machine. Two lasers, virtual carving and about 15 diffrent software programs. Happy to help anyone that needs it.