Router Bits Source

[pjldesigns@hotmail.com]

I found a great site for router bits.
Contains description of bits, bit types, bit geometires, feedrates, plastics and wood bits.
Also has metal cutting information.
Check it out at:
www.multicam.com

[bob]

I'm cutting wood gears and require a small bit to get the sharp angles required. A 1/8th double flute spiral works great but the longest one I can find is 3/16ths and I need 1/4+ to cut through 1/4 plywood plus vener. Does anyone know of a source? I've checked the references provided in this forum.

[edcoleman]

Bob:

I've had very good luck with a company called "Think & Tinker". They have bits that I think will fit your needs at:

http://www.thinktink.com/stack/volumes/voli/store/endmill.htm

They've been very helpful to me when I've called and discussed my applications. If you don't see exactly what you want on the web page, they can probably steer you in the right direction. I believe the guy's name to talk to is Ron Reed.

Good Luck

-Ed

[seaside@esva.net]

Bob,

Jesada Tools has an 1/8" upspiral bit with a 1/4" shank that has a 1/2" cutter length. The part number is 880-001, the price is $15.10, and their toll-free # is 800-531-5559.

Bill
seaside@esva.net (mailto:seaside@esva.net)

[joa]

Here's my trick- use a Rotozip two flute. They're cheap, made of fairly soft material so they won't break like carbide, and are cheap enough to throw away when you're done (or cut down and grind flat again.) Try them (you'll need a chuck or a 1/8" collet.)

Joa

[bob]

Many thanks Ed, Bill and Joa for the help. This forum sure does help '

[birdsofplay]

Anyone had any experience with LEXAN ?

I just toasted a 1/4" carbide spiral upcut two flute on a .3 deep cut.
I had assumed that low router speed and fast
cutting speed would be necessary to avoid melting.
I was at 1" speed and 10K on the PC3.25HP router.
I guess it was too fast, eh?

Speeds and feeds is all I need. Thanks in advance.

Bob

[banner@shelby.net]

Does anyone know of a simple (relative term) CAD program for designing gears, i.e. wooden gears?
Thanks, John

[joa]

Try www.workingmodel.com and download their 2d shareware. I don't think it will do gears but their registered version will. This program is amazing and a must for kinetics.

Joa

[dale]

Bob"
I have had some success with lexan. I am using a cutting speed of 2500-3000 SFM (surface feet per minute)for carbide and a feed rate of .001" per flute.
The formula for speed is rpm=sfm x 3.8 /D where D is the diameter of the tool.
for a 1/4" 2 flute end mill 2500 x 3.8 /.25=38000rpm.
At 10000 you were a little slow. Max out the router and keep the feed rate at .001"
For example 20,000 rpm with a 2 flute cutter will need a feedrate of 40 inches / minute.
I have noticed that the lexan will melt more because of a feedrate that is too slow than of high rpm. I think that your feed rate was a little high. Lexan, although nice to work, is a tough material. At 1" your feedrate was .003" per flute.
I hope thes helps. I have only cut 1/8" thick material,however, I have never "toasted a cutter"
Another idea would be to use a carbide end mill instead of an upcut router bit. The angles are different to give more "meat" behind the cutting edge.
good luck
Dale

[birdsofplay]

Thanks Dale,

I'll have to give that a try.

Bob

[jimt]

Joa,

When you use the Rotozip bits, what speed do you run them at? Do you use the rotozip tool as well? How thick a material and what type are you cutting? How fast? I've tried these in the past with just OK success and was wondering if the spindle speed is too slow. I know the rotozip tool rusn at something like 30,000 rpm.

Jim

[joa]

I use the Rotozips in my 3 1/4hp variable speed router.

Rotozip speed is set by trial and error (at least I do). I just use a speed that is fast enough to cut nice sawdust without burning or "lugging down". For foam I have to go pretty slow or it melts the foam.

Do lots of trial cuts and record what works for the future.

Beware, they have quite a bit of cutter deflection so you have to go slow on thicker wood but for foam they are the cats meow.

Joa

[billp]

I have been using Pricecutters (http://pricecutters.com) as my major router bit source for the last few months. I have yet to "kill"one of their 1/4"spiral upcuts, and they have a very good online selection. They are also having a sale right now on 1"-60 degree "V"sign making bits (#3915)for $9.95...For those of you doing signs, this is a great deal...Bill P.

[billp]

OOOPS... I inadvertantly gave the wrong URL for the above router company. The correct "address"is http://pricecutter.com Sorry for the screwup..

[shuttle]

I've just finished a successful stainless steel cut. I didnt think it was possible, but after cutting someone's computer case I thought I would try. I did 4 passes on 16 ga plate using a titanium coated 3/32" 4 flute carbide endmill, while aiming my air nozzle at the bit at all times. Speed .07"/sec. It was a maple leaf, about 12" total cut length. Another Shopbot moment of glory.

[shuttle]

I guess I should mention my source here... eBay for 95% of my cutters, where else can you get a solid carbide bit for under 10.00

[brett_stahl]

Shopbotters looking for bits might also want to try http://www.american-carbide.com for bits. I have been buying my coated ballmills and endmills from here and have yet to find better pricing. I was told the bits are made in Ohio. So far so good and I like the fact that I can get them with any coating (Tin, Ticn, TiAln or AlTin). I usually cut MDF or MDO and the AlTin and Tin coatings seem to work nicely.
I would be interested in other Botters opinions on which coatings they prefer for different materials.

Thanks,
Brett

[Brady Watson]

Nice tip, Brett. I have a big job coming up and I need some new bits. I am curious about the coated ones myself & how much extra life you get out of a bit vs. an identical non-coated one...Plus, which coatings work best for a given material. I'm sure there's something online that explains the coating applications.

Nice to see an economical source for ballnose bits. I didn't see any long-length 1/8" on there though. I know MSC carries them with a 1.5" CL.

-Brady

[Jason Sommers (Unregistered Guest)]

Brady, who is MSC?
long length 1/8" ball nose endmills are hard to find.

[daveiannone]

Jason
Try here www.mscdirect.com (http://www.mscdirect.com)

[Brady Watson]

That would be the one...

[Jason Sommers (Unregistered Guest)]

Thanks David and Brady,
Did search on MSC for long length 1/8 bits, no luck with 1.5" CL though, longest I could find was in a tapered bit.
Jason

[Brady Watson]

Jason,
That tapered 1/8" bit is nearly indestructable! I have yet to break one of the MSC tapered 1/8" with 1.5 CL 1/4" shank.

Conicaltool.com has 2" CL 1/8" ballnose bits...you have to hunt for it on the site.

-Brady

[ron brown]

Best thing to do is e-mail conical tool and tell them what you need. They have an amazing range of tooling. And, for fee will make it if they don't have it.

Ron

[bjenkins]

Along with bits, we all consume collets. Where are you finding the best price on Porter Cable collets? I noticed Ron's note in another thread that he's buying the inserts. Where? I've found several sources of the assembly, but as you know the nuts don't need to be replaced nearly as often as the collet body.

[ron brown]

I buy the inserts direct from Porter-Cable.

Ron

[ed_conley]

I'm looking for a 1/8 inch diameter ball nose end mill (no taper) that has a length of cut longer than 3/8 inch. Must have 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2 inch shank. Anyone have a good source?

[paco]

Onsrud; ONS 52-240B & ONS 52-240BL... both 1/4 shank... the BL one is an extended lenght bit... both have 1/2" CEL...

By the way, I am looking for 1/16" size of that kind...? Just can't find it...

[jay]

Paco, try
http://www.thinktink.com/index.htm
http://www.robbjack.com/index.html
I have used both and have been very pleased.

[paco]

Thanks!

[wildbill (Unregistered Guest)]

try Garr carbide endmills for long 1/8 bits

[benchmark]

If any one needs a long cutter for machining foam Try www.3dcutting.com (http://www.3dcutting.com) they have some extremely long cutter
1/4" x 4 Inch Cutting $242.15

1/2" x 6 Inch Cutting $287.10

1/2" x 8 Inch Cutting $316.10
Expensive, but if you need to do some deep cuts they might be the only way.

[Brady Watson]

Paul,
I went down this road about 2yrs ago. You will have difficulty using these bits on a standard ShopBot. Realistically, with a standard 6-7" Z, you will effectively only be able to use a bit with a 3" cutting length max. You still need room to zero the bit, and enough room for safe Z clearance. In some cases, you have to edit your zzero file so that the Z-axis doesn't top out when it brings the z back up. Plus, you'll need to remember to keep your Z-clearance values low to avoid this condition when you create your toolpath.

Save your money and search around for standard end mills that will get you where you need to be. I have found .125 with 1" LOC & 3.5" OAL, 1/4" with 2" LOC and 4" OAL and 1/2" with 6" OAL and 3" LOC. The 6" one needs to be shortened. You can do this with a grinder creating a score...get it nice and hot and hit it with water from a spray bottle...viola ~ it snaps the short end right off at the score mark. It's been a while since I have bought any, but it would be fairly safe to say that you could buy all 3 of these tools for around $100.

Typically, many of us that need to cut these deeper lengths, slice the model in Z and then machine and reassemble the model. One program that is good with this sort of thing is ArtCAM Pro. There are others out there as well.

After coming across a similar website offering these longer tools I thought that I had hit the jackpot...but reality set in that they were too long to realistically be used on a ShopBot even if I was only cutting foam.

-Brady

[webbhead]

Any more word on the TiALN coatings?...

A 2x6 redwood name plate just gobbled up my 2nd to last long reach ball end... with less than 1/8" to go before completion. Just choked the darned thing, b-lined into my vcarves & snapped the bit right off... & the piece was freakin perfect. I hate when that happens. Guess I'll need to reduce the stepdown for that last half inch & remove any dust buildup in the channel before proceeding.

I'm giving these guys a shot for the long reach 1/8" end mills for final pass milling.
http://www.procarbide.com/longlengthendmillsBALL.php

A 2 flute 3" is only $8.88 uncoated, or $9.96 for the TiALN. Most info I found mentions TiALN use for metal milling apps, but they also talk of better tool protection at higher temps. Couldn't hurt on redwood, cedar, MDF, or Extira, could it?

John

[marshawk]

We use tapered bits with a ZN54 coating. They seem to last a lot longer than straight bits and uncoated.

Our supplier is Keystone Tool Crib in PA. 800-451-2523, ask for Scott.

The 1/8" short bit: Ser. .062", Rad. 1, Deg. 30, Centerline angle #32404 w/ZN54 coating

They also have a 6" tapered bit with a little over 3" of cutting length, 1/8" ball nose.

It usually takes about two weeks to get the bits if you ask for the coating because they send them out for the process.

Ask Scott for the same bits that Marshall's Millwork buys and give me a call if there is any confusion.

Good people, good service. They sent me the wrong bit once and took care of the problem promptly. All too often, vendors hate to own up to mistakes, but these guys were right up front. I like that in a company.

The products are made in the US too... ;-)

Chip

[marshawk]

Keystone Tool Crib is going out of business. As soon as I find a replacement source, I'll let you all know.

Chip