How would you cut this profile in wood?

[Mayo]

My nephew is building a bar in his basement and asked me if I could cut a shaped railing for it.
This would be the part of the bar your arms or elbows rest against. It will most likely be cut out of a 2x8 oak board, and run the entire 8 feet.
The image of the profile (the shape as seen from the side edge of the board) is located here:
http://www.difsupply.com/rail.gif

So I'm wondering if it will be better to cut this with the router making long 8 foot passes on the X axis or with the router making short passes on the Y axis, and gradually moving across the 8 foot board.

I'm also wondering what type of bit would be best to use for this kind of thing. I assume I'll need one kind of bit (probably a flat bottom bit) for the area that has the rectangle cut away, and another kind of bit for the curved area.

The bullnose front could be done after the board is machined and removed from the router table.

I have only designed the profile as you see it, with no tool paths yet. I have it as an .eps and can convert it into numerous file types. I have no experience with Vector software *yet* - it just seemed like you have to think like an engineer or architect in order to use it. (Since I'm neither, I find it contrary to being creative).

[rgengrave@aol.com]

Mayo I did one similar last year, what I did is make 1/4 inch passes, with a 1/2 inch router bit.
Then used a 1/4 inch router bit to remove the waste, then used a ball sander to smooth it all out total time to do it was about 15 min.

Ron V

[rjguinn@optonline.net]

Ron-
What is a ball sander?

Jeff Guinn

[rgengrave@aol.com]

lol in Texas we call it a Ball Sander, but another names for it is Belt Sander, Orbital Sander, anything you can sand CURVES with, it is a good thing I did not say you can but it Over Yonder (-:

Ron V

[Mayo]

Thanks for the response Ron.
Were you cutting continuous passes in the X direction and then overlapping in the Y direction? Or were you cutting the passes in the Y direction and overlapping in the X direction?

What I mean is, if you think of that profile as if it is a letter S made tall and laid onto it's side, you really need to program just one of those and then repeat it while overlapping over the length of the bar rail.

My thinking is that if you can program that profile shape for a single cutting width in the Y direction, and then just repeat it and overlap it while moving in the X direction, it would be a smaller file or easier to program.

Perhaps it's the same either way?

[rgengrave@aol.com]

Mayo I would just cut in the X direction and cut diffrent depths to make the shpe you are looking for, if you total depth is going to be less then 1/2in? I would use a 1/2 bit and have it cut depths of 1/8 per pass, you will have less sanding this way.

Ron V

[imserv@imsrv.com]

Mayo, this is a very easy tool path to develop in Vector Cam. It is sometimes referred to as a ruled surface. Draw the curved portions of each end in 3D, parallel and at the 8 foot distance, Draw-Other Curves-Offset, Offset for the radius of your Ball nose cutter. You need to program the center of the radius for a ball cutter, which means that when you run the program the tool will cut 1 radius too high in Z, but this is easy to compensate for by shifting your coordinate axis.

Change-Break-Divide the offset contours into as many divisions as are needed to get a smooth surface.(try a short piece first to see how many passes you will need) Then use the 3D-Connect to automatically create a zig-zag tool path. You should not need to do much sanding.

You could also use the Skin Function for nearly the same result.

[swims@mindspring.com]

Total time 15 minutes?

Total time?

15 minutes?

[rgengrave@aol.com]

3 minutes to draw file and convert, and 12 minutes to make 21 cuts and speed set at 2 inch, depth cut was 1/8 per pass, sanding was very little using 60 grid, then 120.

I use the shopbot to do 80% of the work then use my other tools to finish the work or they will collect dust.

Ron V

[swims@mindspring.com]

+ set up time (securing the wood, changing router bits, etc)
+ sanding (to millwork standards)
= ALOT more than 15 minutes.

[rgengrave@aol.com]

Steve you forgot

+ Staining
+ Finishing
+ Installing
= 1 Day

Mayo did not ask how long it would take from start to finish.

Times may vary depending on the person.

Ron V

[aluteh@online.ee]

Few days ago I got an inquiry from clothing designer and he asked whether it is possible to produce a leaflet stand. First I thought no problem,
but after two days thinking I ask myself -why. This stand is made from Mdf and the trickiest part for me to figure out is how to produce a profile 2400mm long , which looks like pipe cut to half (exept the inner side of pipe is full material). Is there anyone out there with advice how and where to start.

Many thanks in advance,
Holger Erendi

[gerald_d]

Ah, Our friend from Estonia!

Holger, I can't figure out what you are trying to explain. Now I am going to think about it for two days and then ask myself - why. hahaha

Can you send a rough sketch to fax number 0027 21 785 3372 ? Don't write anything on it, I will know that it is from you.