richards
02-04-2004, 03:36 PM
I've just about decided to buy a PRT 120-60 with the Colombo spindle, but the transition in thinking of cutting with a handheld router and cutting with a CNC router leaves some questions.
Last week I posted a question about cutting Baltic Birch and received a lot of good advice, especially from Eric in Florida. After looking at the Onsrud web site and the Colombo web site, as well as reading posts in this forum, I started to realize that there is going to be a substantial learning curve.
Anyway, here are a few more questions.
1. When cutting through 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood, which 3/8" Compression Onsrud cutter should I use to get the best top and bottom surface for cutting parts out of the material: the 60-121 (CEL=7/8") or the 60-120 (CEL=1-1/8")? Or would another cutter be better? (I've never seen a compression spiral cutter, so I don't know how far the two spirals extend.)
2. The Onsrud catalog has a feed chart for wood using a cutter with a CED=1/2". If I use the 3/8" cutter should I factor in the difference in the cutter's circumference? For example each revolution of the 1/2" cutter takes 1.57", while each revolution of the 3/8" cutter takes only 1.177". I know that there are a lot of other variables that have as much effect, if not more, on the feed speed than the difference in circumferences, but it is a question nevertheless.
3. When cutting multiples with a 3/8" cutter, can I nest the parts 3/8" apart (so that two pieces share the same tool path for a portion of the cut) or do I need to space the parts 2 x 3/8" plus another 1/4" or so, so that the cutter has a constant resistance? My concern here is that having a cutter alternate between cutting air and cutting wood every few seconds might create too much banging on the spindle's bearings.
4. There is a suggestion to ramp the cutter down when entering a cut. Does Shopbot's software have a routine for doing that?
5. Is there a program to optimize cutter paths when importing an AutoCadLT dfx file. (I usually lay out parts with a base line and then do offsets and connections to make a series of rectangles, then finish the piece with the necessary radiuses, etc. In short, the Shopbot would be jumping all over the place if it cuts lines in the order that I create parts - just watching my old HP Draft-Pro plotter verifies that problem. I have downloaded PartsWizard, but the demo doesn't allow saves, so I can't look at the code to see what happens to an imported file.)
Last week I posted a question about cutting Baltic Birch and received a lot of good advice, especially from Eric in Florida. After looking at the Onsrud web site and the Colombo web site, as well as reading posts in this forum, I started to realize that there is going to be a substantial learning curve.
Anyway, here are a few more questions.
1. When cutting through 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood, which 3/8" Compression Onsrud cutter should I use to get the best top and bottom surface for cutting parts out of the material: the 60-121 (CEL=7/8") or the 60-120 (CEL=1-1/8")? Or would another cutter be better? (I've never seen a compression spiral cutter, so I don't know how far the two spirals extend.)
2. The Onsrud catalog has a feed chart for wood using a cutter with a CED=1/2". If I use the 3/8" cutter should I factor in the difference in the cutter's circumference? For example each revolution of the 1/2" cutter takes 1.57", while each revolution of the 3/8" cutter takes only 1.177". I know that there are a lot of other variables that have as much effect, if not more, on the feed speed than the difference in circumferences, but it is a question nevertheless.
3. When cutting multiples with a 3/8" cutter, can I nest the parts 3/8" apart (so that two pieces share the same tool path for a portion of the cut) or do I need to space the parts 2 x 3/8" plus another 1/4" or so, so that the cutter has a constant resistance? My concern here is that having a cutter alternate between cutting air and cutting wood every few seconds might create too much banging on the spindle's bearings.
4. There is a suggestion to ramp the cutter down when entering a cut. Does Shopbot's software have a routine for doing that?
5. Is there a program to optimize cutter paths when importing an AutoCadLT dfx file. (I usually lay out parts with a base line and then do offsets and connections to make a series of rectangles, then finish the piece with the necessary radiuses, etc. In short, the Shopbot would be jumping all over the place if it cuts lines in the order that I create parts - just watching my old HP Draft-Pro plotter verifies that problem. I have downloaded PartsWizard, but the demo doesn't allow saves, so I can't look at the code to see what happens to an imported file.)