0,0 locating a bit

[ron brown]

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Two $10 RadioShack lasers, mounted to X and Y carriages. OK I cheated, they are just temporarily mounted BUT, I am working on the brackets to permanantly mount them so I can mount boards using the lines and go to "centers" for some sign cutting.

Ron

[bud_olsen]

Ron

That is a good idea, keep me posted on your progress!

[gerald_d]

But Ron, we have sunshine down here, we won't see the lines!

Actually I am just green with envy that you have a "Radio Shack" and $10 lasers!

[Brady Watson]

Ron,
Can you list the RS part # for us? Are they line lasers or laser pointers skewed to give a line? What you have there looks very good.

Thanks!
-Brady

[mikejohn]

Ron
Other than getting the 0,0 point, are you also mounting them to give you the x and y alignment?
..............Mike

[ron brown]

PN 82864 - they broadcast a line. Yes, I am rigging a mount.

Ron

[Brady Watson]

Thanks Ron!

[jhicks]

What a simple and great solution for a pesky problem. Can you post a photo with better lighting on where and how you mount them? This will definately help and save the time for that tedious and time consuming task. THANKS

[dmdraper]

Just a thought... another option for locating x=0, y=0.

Many of the parts I cut are from a rectangular "blank". I mount the blank on the SB in a suitable location and using a custom cut file and the z-zero plate (on its edge), I can find the exact corner of the blank (which corresponds to x=0, y=0 on my part drawing). Takes about 10 seconds and is dead on.

The custom cut file is sort of a hybrid of the probing routine and the z-zero routine.


Dave

[carl_vallance]

Dave
Would you be willing to share your custom cut file?

[david_morris]

The following link may be of some intrest ..
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?DeptID=2171&FamilyID=5475

[dmdraper]

Carl,

You have mail.

Dave D.

[don]

Ron,

This idea saved me some time and frustration.
I had a project was to size, but wasn't completed.
I had a customer that needed my help and had to pull the project off the table.
I purchased the same lasers in the link that David posted.
After installing the lasers, I was able to put the previous project back on the table.
Then I was able to pickup the both ends of the project ( x0,y0 ) and the (x49.600,y0.062).
Notice that it wasn't square on the table.
I then went back into PW2 and rotated the artwork and rewrote the file.
I was using doublefaced carpet tape, and it was easier that to reapplying tape.

[den73160]

Dave
Would you care to share your custom cut file again?

[mziegler]

Dave, I also like to get a copy of your custom cut file. Apparently the z-zero plate is use the same way to the find x-zero and y-zero as z-zero. Thanks. Mark

[jay]

Dave, could I get a copy of your file?
Cheers, Jay

[dmdraper]

Dennis, Mark, and Jay,

You have mail.

Dave D.

[benchmark]

Here is a method that works for me. You can use it to find the corner of the table or the corner of your material or jig. The red tube connect to my vacuum pump to hold it in place, the wire connects to the Zero plate terminal. The metal plates that stick down sit against the edges of your material etc.

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Here is the metric file :

' ZERO CORNER OF TABLE OR MATERIAL ( METRIC ) Homing program (for ShopBot Version 3 Software)
' Example file showing how to zero out X & Y axes with a double limit PLATE.

'Written Paul Amos. 19 March 2004

'Your plate switch (on the X and Y axes) should be wired up to
' Input #3 (standard).
' Place a 12.7mm pin in Router collet and zero just above finder base and between the two metal plates.
' When you have positioned pin between plates Zero X & Y ( Z2 ).
' Pin can be any Dia but you will need to alter the M2 values in the SUBROUTINES
' This program operates by moving in a negative direction until
' a limit switch is triggered. The axis position is reset to a small predefined
' negative number, and the tool then moves off of the limit plate in the
' positive direction to zero. The limit plate is first approached at Jog Speed
' and then re-approached more slowly at move speed to assure accuracy.
' The X axis is zeroed first.
' Note: that this program assumes that you want to locate your home at center
' of the tool to 0,0 of the router table or the corner of your material.
'---------------------------------------------------------------------------

MS,12,6
J2, 30,30

'Determine whether we are in Preview mode or Move/Cut mode
&modenow = %(22)
IF &modenow = 1 THEN GOSUB Changemode


'Check status of input #3
&prox_status = %(53)
IF &prox_status = 1 THEN GOSUB Getoffprox

'Initialize stuff
SA

[3d_danny]

Hi Dave,

Could I have a copy of your file please?

Thanks,
Dan
dandunn@bellsouth.net (mailto:dandunn@bellsouth.net)

[hespj]

I was thinking of making something like this which sits on the corner of the workpiece at 0,0, turning the SB (Alpha) off and moving the bit into the hole. The bottom of the hole is flush with the top of the workpiece.Turn the SB on and Z3.

Different sized holes for different bits.

Sounds to good (or simple) to be true, there must be something wrong with it.

John..............
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[Stephan (Unregistered Guest)]

Are you thinking of moving the x,y,z by hand ?. If so then you might end up burning out your drives etc. Unless you want to disconect all the motors first and then move it .

Stephan

[Stephan (Unregistered Guest)]

Well guys.
Here is my ver. of the laser mount .I tryed to put the pics but they are to big . So I am going to try putting a zip fie here .
Well the only problem that I can see so far with the setup is that You have to tune it in when you setup you Z Zero befor you get cutting . Let me know if you got questions or want a parts list etc.

[Stephan (Unregistered Guest)]

Well I guess this didn't work .Can anybody help with getting the picture posted here ?.
Thanks
Stephan

[Stephan (Unregistered Guest)]

One last try .

[gerald_d]

Hi Stephan, you have to be logged in as a registered user before you can post pics. You can mail them to gdpost@gmail.com (mailto:gdpost@gmail.com) and I'll post them for you.

[gerald_d]

Posted on behalf of Stephan:

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[steve4460]

Thanks Gerald.
How did you get the pic's reduced ?
Well here is the story to the pic's .
The only thing wrong with this is that you have to tune it to the top of your material every time you want to use this ( See pic 7 ),unless you want to use 2 lasers . I went with these beffy brackats because I had them left over but I got to say it is realy stiff , and I hate to drill holes in to the bot . So that is how that worked out .The laser has 3 differend optics on it for line , dot and cross and is available at menards right now for about $ 7.00 .
As you can see the thing is adjustable along the extrude alumminum and up and down by turning the alumminium , most times you just have to turn it a little to get it where you want it .
If you want to take this one step furter then you can run a wire from the control box with 3 volts ( Resistor needed )on it to save on batterys and to have the software turn it on and off if you have the realy cards installed .

So have fun and save shopbotting .

[les_linton]

Another suggestion for this. Avenger Products makes a Mill/Drill Laser Guide. Item #21400 1/4" shank. Will fit into a 1/4" collet on your router or spindle. Puts a single beam pointing straigh down. Has three thumb screws for X&Y adjustment and an adjustable focus. I might have paid about $25. I bought it for centering my lathe tailstock, but it work pretty good on the Bot too.

Les

[wayne_walker]

Stephan,

Could you provide the manufacture and model number for the laser? We do not have a Menards here in the northwest and it does not appear I can order from them online.

Thanks

Wayne

[steve4460]

Hi Wayne

It is a tool shop laser . If you want me to I can buy it for you and mail it to you as long as you pay for the shipping and the item .
Send email to sv083@yahoo.com (mailto:sv083@yahoo.com) and we will work out the details .

[mziegler]

Thanks Dave, your find_corner.sbp file work great to find the edges on parts. I did modify for my needs and also slow down the move speed.

Paul, I have trouble to get your zero corner of table or material to run right. Why are using your input #3 instead input #1 (zzero plate) in your program?

Mark

[mziegler]

In the new Shopbot release sb3_4_16 there program for finding center of holes - S_Center_inHole.sbp. I can find the center of parts easy by drawing a line from corner to corner on the part and then placing the zzero plate on the intersection of the lines. Then run the custom cut file I assign for that program. On the zzero plate I mount a short piece of pipe over the center of a hole in the plate. The hole in plate is for seeing the center lines on the part. And since I usually need to use the zzero plate to locate material top, also use it to find parts center made sense to me. Mark

[jhicks]

Thanks to Stephan and Ron for their creative inspiration, I am trying the laser technique and love it. The laser used in my case is available at Home Depot "STRAIT-LINE X3"
www.strait-line.com (http://www.strait-line.com)
and has the added features of a rotary dial to line up the light perpendicularity and a micro adjust knob to adjust laterally. as I set it up for test it definately pointed out my out of square conditions on the spindle and Y gantry quickly. Once adjusted and resolved, it was simple to dial the beam (with micro adjust knob)over/onto the center of the collet down a .062 end mill right on the center of the bit shank and tip from both axis as well as with my table edge guides/fences.
More to do on mounting but so far adhesive tape looks like it will do the trick IF it holds under vibration while running. If not another more robust method or high tack tape will be determined.
They were the perfect Christmas presents

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