RC Eliminator Chuck

[sheldon@dingwallguitars.com]

Has anyone tried the RC Eliminator chuck? I've tried 3 and cannot get the runout (it could be eccentricity too) under .014" (measured 3" below the chuck). It vibrates like crazy. I've tried rotating the chuck in the spindle 60 degrees at a time, tapping it as I'm tightening.

I really don't want to use the Porter Cable wrenches.

[garbob]

I went out to an automotive store and bought big honkin' wrenches to replace the rinky dink ones from PC. Just don't go crazy tightening or you'll do damage. Now I can change bits without jarring the machine at all.

[ron_cleaver]

Sheldon,

I got the Eliminator chuck recently. It works great for me. There's no vibration and I haven't noticed any problem with runout. I just cut a small, very detailed file last night and the result was excellent.

I noticed some directions that came with the chuck to use if you experience vibration. Did you try those instructions?

The only problem I've had with the chuck is removing the 1/4" collet. Last night it wouldn't come out, so I had to remove the chuck and tap it out. Kinda defeats the purpose of having the thing.

If I could find all the router bits I need with a 1/2" shank, then I wouldn't need the collet.

[david allen]

sheldon,

I have the chuck. it workes OK for me. does it vibrate without a bit or with a very short bit installed?

da

[edp@sunbeach.net]

Have been using the chuck for a few months, pushing the tool hard cutting 1 3/4" thick mahogany ( 5 passes). No problems, no vibration, no complaints.

[bwclark@centurytel.net]

Sheldon,

Have you REALLY cleaned both the threads on the RC chuch and your PC router? I mean clean them with something like Acetone and an old toothbrush?

If you are getting that much run-out, something is seriously wrong. That and the bearing on your router will be shot in a short time.

I would also look at the threads on both the chuck and the router to make sure they have not crossed threaded and are in good shape.

Bruce Clark
bwclark@centurytel.net (mailto:bwclark@centurytel.net)

[bwclark@centurytel.net]

Opps,

I ment to say clean the taper not the threads, with acetone and a toothbrush.

Bruce Clark
bwclark@centurytel.net (mailto:bwclark@centurytel.net)

[roney]

Sheldon, i've been using the Eliminator ever since I got my 'bot back in Jan 01. The bearings in my first PC 3.25 were bad to start with so i did get some vibration, however since installing a new PC 3.25 variable sp. I haven't noticed any unusual vibrations. I agree with Ron about the 1/4" collet sticking and additionally we notice that there is some form of rust that forms on the 1/2" bits although not sure why.

jrc

[edp@sunbeach.net]

I have noticed the rust on the shanks of my 1/2" bits and wondered why as well. We wipe down the shanks with a little WD-40 before inserting into the collet and still get the rust. Thought it was the slightly salty air here in the island but that does not appear to be the cause.

[sheldon@dingwallguitars.com]

I tried setting the Eliminator up using a bearing guided trim bit instead of the 1/2" shaft. I was able to get it running much more concentric when measured at the bearing. Not as good as the original collet, but better than before. I noticed that when I rotated the bit in the Eliminator, I measured various amounts of runout suggesting that you need to orient the bit so that runout in the Eliminator cancels the runout in the bit. I measured other bearing guided bits and found the same.

Speaking of the 1/4" adapter, they've sent me three so far and none of them will accept a 1/4" bit. They measure closer to 6mm than .250".

[waynelocke]

I also had problems with 1/4" adapters. I tried several which had various problems, not releasing the bit, not accepting a bit, not coming out of the Eliminator chuck. I bought a Porter Cable adapter which is working great. It at least has a small collar so that it will not get lost in the chuck.

[waynelocke]

I also had problems with 1/4" adapters. I tried several which had various problems, not releasing the bit, not accepting a bit, not coming out of the Eliminator chuck. I bought a Porter Cable adapter which is working great. It at least has a small collar so that it will not get lost in the chuck. I also bought a PC 1/8" adapter which fits in the 1/4" adapter but I have not had an occasssion to try it.

[gfacer@istar.ca]

On a similar note,

I have just received a RC eliminator Plus chuck...from woodpeck.com. I think this is an slight improvement over the orginal design, but I'm not familar with the difference.

I have just check the run out, using a dial indicator at 90 degrees to the spindle and observing the variation.

a 1/2 bit in the PC collet has about .001 runout at most, while the Elimanator has about .005 or .006. Vibration is not a problem specifically, but I think the cut finish of the acrylic I work with will go to hell, as will my CNC cut tolerances.

The RC elimantor seems to work on a modified version of a set screw. I think that it is just pushing the bit over .005" (off center) when tight, rather that pushing the bit to center when tight.

I'm going to measure the bit shank now, but any other suggestions before I let the dust collect on this thing?

Greg Facer, Industrial Plastics.

[sheldon@dingwallguitars.com]

I drove myself nuts trying to set mine up using a dial and a length of drill rod.

Then I tried it with a Dimar bearing guided insert bit. I was able to get better measured runout by rotating the bit in the chuck (once the chuck was dialed in as much as I could get it).

I tried other bits and found the same, you have to balance the runout of each bit against the runout of the chuck, then mark the bit so that it always goes in the same way. With any luck, the cutting edges will be perpendicular to the direction of the runout.

I love the convenience of the socket cap locking mechanism, but long for more accuracy.

[gfacer]

Hmmm,

Thanks for the response Sheldon, but that kind of defeats the purpose of it all.

Greg

[waynesutter]

I also had problems with the eleminator chuck. I grew so frustrated with vibration and even broke two bits that should have never been a problem. I will not use the eleminator at all. Wrenches are a pain but bits are expensive!

[flyboy]

will the rc-eliminator let me use odd size end mill bits? I need to chuck a 1/16" x 3/16th shaft end mill for routing a small "R in circle" trademark. I'm not sure how it works. Is it completely variable or just easy to change 1/4, 1/2 shanks?

[rgbrown@itexas.net]

Tom,

You need either a collet system that will hold many sizes of bits - Bruce Clark posted about these $omewhere, or a reducing sleeve. If you can't find a commercially made sleeve, any competent machinist shop can build one if a fairly short time.

Ron Brown - rgbrown@itexas.net (mailto:rgbrown@itexas.net)

If Stupidity got us into this mess,
then why can't it get us out? - Will Rogers

[sheldon@dingwallguitars.com]

I found the RC eliminator to have way too much runnout. YMMV, but on large bits there was too much vibration. I never tried smaller bits, but I think breakage would be a problem.

[flyboy]

ok thanks, I'll scrap that plan and get some collets. I hate to break expensive bits.

[edp@sunbeach.net]

Have stopped using the Eliminator for the same reason, too much runout - smaller bits with 1/4" shanks break after a few hundred feet of cut with very light passes taken in pine doing gingerbread. Switched back to the standard Porter-Cable chuck, used the same collet and the problem disappeared.

[dmdraper]

I've had fairly good luck using Dremel end mills in the reducer that PC sells for the 1/4" collet.

Dave D.