Exrira or medex for signs

[RTM (Unregistered Guest)]

What is the difference between extira and medex ? I haven't found a supplier for extira but my lumber supplier has medex. I got a sheet and it seems to cut nice.
I was wondering if it will hold up as well as exrira. and if anyone has any experience with it.
Another thing is I can only get it in 3/4 and would like a thicker sign so was thinking of gluing to sheets together. What would be the best glue to use. I was thinking of "liquid nails".

[beacon14]

Tightbond III (http://www.titebond.com/WNTitebondIIITB.asp)

[Brady Watson]

No it will not hold up as well as Extira. It is better than MDF for moistur resistance, but not nearly as durable outside as Extira.

You can make just about anything 'exteriorized' by sealing it with shellac and then a couple coats of epoxy resin. Then finish as usual.

-Brady

[RTM (Unregistered Guest)]

Do you need the epoxy resin on extira, or can you just paint it ?
what paint can you use over the epoxy?

[don_ask]

I have tested Medex by leaving it outside with nothing to protect it from the sun and rain. (NO snow where I live). After 3 years it still looks good enough to make it another 3. It has faded and looks a little gray. Do not be scared to use it if you can't get extira. I have used it for signs with no problems.

[joe]

David,

I beg to disagree with Don Ask to the FULLEST.

Here is a test for you which I performed at the Ada Camp a couple of years ago. Slice off a piece of each and drop in a bucket of wate overnight. I know this is a radical test but you will see the difference. There's very little moisture resistance in medex once the surface integrity is broken.

I'm speaking of considerable financial losses and reputation dented by the failure of medex. This isn't just me either. Other signs artist throught the country have sworn off of this material. You might call any reputable sign company in your local for a recommendation.

I would still use it, but as mentioned earlier, it would be with provisions.

J

[RTM (Unregistered Guest)]

The sign I am Making is a 4 x 6 sign for a church so it needs to last. It will have a small roof over it sort of like a wishing well.I'm in a dry area, only 15 inch of rain anually. but will be located on the lawn so sprinklers could be an issue.If properly sealed with epoxy on the medex shoud I have any worryies ?

[joe]

Your're lucky to have such a nice job! Wish it were in our shop.

Not knowing your design, budget or particulars, I wouldn't know what to recommend, except for the following.

There are signs that should last for years and years. Government, University & Colleges, Churches, etc. For this kind of work we pull out all the stops on longevity.

If it's a budget sign, I'd probably go for MDO with raised PVC panels and lettters. HDU would be very good if the budget will allow.

I'd be glad to help you with a couple of design idea's if you like.

J

[jhicks]

On the subject of Medex, I have a sign in process and thanks to Joe's post on his rumors sign we decided to route the letters, locate their position on the panel with a shallow area clear, then will paint and apply to the panel and letters independantly. The customer specified the Medex so that's what we used. The letters were cut with a 1/2" roundover bit in 3/4" stock, and the panel is 1/2".
The question now is what would be the best surface preparation and paint for this outdoor panel? Also what would be best glue to secure the letters to the panel with?
Panel has predrilled holes to mount the letters but still feel adhesive is what we need to do.
All input is appreciated.
5503

[Brady Watson]

Epoxy would be best for mounting the letters.

[stickman]

Brady,

would you use epoxy at its mixed strength or thin it down?

Jay

[joe]

Jerry,

Let me see if I have this correct. You've cut the letters as individual pieces, and routed out a pocket in the sign panel where they go?

The pocket area is the most vunerable to moisture. I'd dilute epoxy down by 1/3 with lacquer thinner. To apply the letters I would make an epoxy putty. Peanut butter consistancy.

That is a mixture of epoxy and dust from a sander.It will take a considerable amount dust to get it thick. You can purchase additative from most epoxy mfg. It's kind of expensive and not nearly so availabe as your trusty old belt sander. This method gives you considerable control over a the liquid messy epoxy solution. It can be mixed thick enough to be applied vertically. Seems to get harder with more dust.

Sometimes I prefer using G.E. Silicone. Probably not with fidgety little letters.

Good looking sign. I predict you and the client will be very pleased. Keep up the good work.

J

[Brady Watson]

Jay,
Joe is spot on. If for some reason you lack sanding dust, you can get micro-balloons at the boat store. These are the easiest of the powdered additives to sand and smooth...but a bit more expensive than recycling your dust!

-Brady

[jhicks]

Joe & Brady, Thanks. Thats just the help I needed to complete it and move forward. Yes Joe, the panel is routed/ area cleared .050 deep so the surface beneath each letter and border has been violated. The area clear pocket is .020 offset to place letters easily with pilot holes through the panel to properly position each letter and border trim correctly and screw / glue in place. I'll make sure we take care to seal all holes and edges especially well before priming and get the "peanut butter" mixer going.
As always, thanks for the help and Bot On!

[mikejohn]

Jerry
If you are short of sawdust email me, I seem to have lots to spare


.......................Mike

[jhicks]

Thanks Mike but we're making our own right now.