90 Degree V Bit

[jim_vv]

Greetings, All

Most of my V Carving is done on prefinished cherry. When the text or images are small enough I use Onsrud's 1/4" 30 Degree (#37-21) and 1/4" 60 Degree (37-01) Engraving Bits. When things get big enough I use Onsrud's 1" 60 Degree V Bit #37-82 and 1.5" 90 Degree V Bit #37-87. I do not like the finish that I get with the Onsrud 90 Degree #37-87. I have tried different RPM settings and feed rates.

Can anyone recommend a 90 Degree V Bit that they like to use on hardwood?

Thank you in advance.

JIM

[myxpykalix]

Jim,
I use (oh no don't tell me he's going to say it again.....wait...wait...here it comes....)
Centurion bits. I just happen to like them and they are as sharp today as they were when i bought them over a year ago. If they say they are 90 degrees, they are 90 degrees, not like some of this cheap junk you can buy.

5525

[jim_vv]

Jack,

It looks like your 90 has only one cutting edge like an engraving bit. Are yours 1/4" or 1/2" diameter?

JIM

[mzettl]

Most of what I cut is hardwood, from things like cherry and walnut to exotics like bubinga, bloodwood, purpleheart, etc. I really like Centurion bits, especially their spiral end mills. However, I have found that their V-bits, while doing an excellent job on composite materials, do not do quite as well on hardwoods. They tend to leave some fuzziness. My best results with hardwoods have been with Whiteside V-bits. For small letters, they make a 1/4" solid carbide 3 flute 60 degree bit that is excellent. I also use their 1/2" two flute 90.

Hope this helps,

Matt

[rcnewcomb]

I like the V-bits from CMT (http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RB~7/8/915~2)

[srwtlc]

The v-bits Jack showed have three edges. They work good on veneered MDF, but not as good on hardwoods as they scrape instead of cut and can tear some woods.

[cowboy1296]

I have to make a move soon on a 90 degree lettering bit to cut lettering in alder. Since this is such an old post what do yall think now is the best way to go.

[hh_woodworking]

I still have been very happy with the whiteside bits 1/4 90 degree on the link below is solid carbide. Ballew Saw is great to work with also:

http://www.ballewsawandtool.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=539&category_id=412&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=31

[srwtlc]

CMT 815.690.11 (http://www.amazon.com/CMT-815-690-11-V-Grooving-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4LP4Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383673948&sr=8-1&keywords=CMT+815.690.11)

The picture is of an older style. The current ones have what could be called a single flute with a 3/4 second flute. One cutting edge goes to a sharp point and the other stops short of the tip. This allows a nice sharp dead center point and less heat at the tip. I run them at a bit higher rpm because of that sort of single flute and get good results in hardwoods.

That being said, I hate red alder and don't rout it any more of it than I have to. Main reason is its tendancy to tear on endgrain. I make a lot of plaques out of it and when routing the end grain edges, it likes to tear out instead of leaving a smooth clean cut even with a new roman ogee bit. I've found that the Quadra Cut bits from Freud work good for that situation though. It can vary from board to board. Like the looks of it though.

[cowboy1296]

I had to make a move since i am not overly happy with my 90 degree that i have now. Its good for out side signs but this is a hostess station at an upscale restaurant. My current 90 left tool marking down inside of the lettering.

I chose Centurion over the rest mostly because of the over all length plus they gave me a 3/8 inch option.

Anyhow thanks again.

I have about had it with alder also and am going to cherry. This is my attempt at finishing it and hopefully i will get better.

[srwtlc]

Those look really nice Rick! I like the design and layout. Nice thing about RA, is that it doesn't darken with age like cherry does (if you want it to stay lighter that is).

[cowboy1296]

since i am a rookie with cherry, just how much will it darken. Plus there is 3 thin seal coats on this plaque.. I dont see darking as a problem, YET.

[srwtlc]

That's hard to describe, but maybe two to three shades. I've got some furniture pieces that are 10-15 years old and they are a nice deep burnt sienna to umber. Take a scrap piece and plane it off, sand it and put some finish on it. After it's dry, cover half with a piece of scrap and sit it in the sun or under some fluorescent lights and check it every so often to see the difference. Had a lamp on one of our tables that made the rounds (moved to a new location) for a long time to keep from making a lighter colored oval on the surface. ;)

[scottp55]

Border is about 3 yrs old stored in garage but exposed to some sunlight, pocket carved last week.shown with 3 layers polymerized Tung oil. It will get darker by about a shade now that it's in full sun(UV seems to be the key).

[cowboy1296]

They always say a picture is worth a 1000 words. During the time of storage did the border have any kind of sealant on it or was it raw?

[scottp55]

No sealant or anything. It was a short piece leftover from a wide trim piece and thrown on the top layer of wall storage in garage near the door,so some sun in the summer. oil did darken it a bit, but the pocket got the same treatment so apples are apples. Whole house trimmed in cherry 5/4 window sills about six months for full color,indirect sun year or so, bathrooms with halogen light 2yrs. One small spot that only has fluorescent has never gotten to the same colour as the others. Cherry kitchen cabinets were offered with a UV CAB finish but didn't use it and wood filler that matched on delivery stands out like a sore thumb. Do remember there's a UV resistant wax out there-Garret Wade maybe that might help. Hope it helped.

[cowboy1296]

Thanks for the input

[scottp55]

Just ran across perfect example of cherry color change yesterday on a badly sniped 10 yr old board. It was not in full sun, just tossed up top with the shorts in garage rack. No finishes involved.

[cowboy1296]

thanks a lot.

[shilala]

I've been using a 1" or 1.25" 60* cutter on everything, and it's a problem that it gets too deep in some circumstances.
I've wanted to get a 90* so I can get the same width of cut and similar effect, but not so deep.
I never even thought of those 1/4" shank 90* Centurion bits. With those things I can adjust anything, plus I can cut in far closer quarters without running into something.
Thanks for the brain joggler, guys!!!

[Burkhardt]

I like the Kyocera bits (http://www.ebay.com/itm/60-degree-angle-x-1-4-carbide-bits-engraving-and-scoring-tools-/150754475846). Very sharp tip, and 2-flute up-spiral.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/60-degree-angle-x-1-4-carbide-bits-engraving-and-scoring-tools-/00/s/OTY5WDYxOQ==/$(KGrHqZ,!hQE8ki)e)ghBPMdWnbr3w~~60_12.JPG