Need help on substrate name.

[andyb]

Had a customer ask if I can cut him a sample for some panels they build. He didn't know the name of the material. The sample is for the plates that go around a switch or a warning label that is applied to the panel. The best I can describe it is, the material is about 1/16" thick with a white center and has a thin piece of color on the top that you cut through. I've looked at several sign supply websites under engraving supplies and can't find it. I know what I'm looking for I just don't know the name or brand.

Andy B.

[eaglesplsh]

Sounds like you're looking for standard PVC laminated engraving stock.

I've used Rowmark brand in the past - they have the largest selection of colors/thicknesses.

http://www.rowmark.com/rotary/Rotary_Engravable_Materials.asp

Check their site for distributors. I haven't ordered it in a long time, but used to purchase in small quantities without any problem.

[zeykr]

Rowmark is one common brand:

http://www.rowmark.com/rotary/Rotary_Engravable_Materials.asp

Think there are several others also.

*** Russ is faster than I!

[andyb]

That's it. Thank you both.

Andy B.

[eaglesplsh]

If you haven't worked with this stuff before, there are are a few things you should know...

PVC is one of those plastics that melts and smears at low temps. You need a sharp bit to get a good clean cut. Run at lowest possible RPM with a high feed rate (which can be hard to achieve with small/precision letters.) Don't try to use the same engraving bit on plastic and metal. I learned that one the hard way when I first started.

Material Flatness will be your biggest headache... Use a freshly surfaced spoilboard/jig. The top color layer is only a few thousandths thick, so any variation in your spoilboard will show up as a variance in your line width for v-carving. These plastics are thin and will flex away from the bit (affecting your cut depth) if their are groves in the spoilboard. The problem is less noticeable with 60 degree bits than 45s. For this application, it might be easiest to just use a 1/32 end mill. The straight sides mean that you don't need to worry as much about cut depth variations.

Clamping can be a real pain. Universal vacuum is best for the engraving part, but won't hold small tags like this for the final profile cut. If the tags have screw holes for mounting to panels, you can screw through these holes into your spoilboard prior to cutting the tag from the sheet. (Remember to set your Save-Z travel height higher than the screw heads. Again, something I remember learning the hard way.)

Thin stock like this likes to flex and lift off the spoilboard when you try to through cut it. Choosing up/down/straight flute is a challenge because you need to eject the chips before they weld back to your piece, but you can't have your work lift off the table and you don't have much clamping force on small pieces. The effect isn't as bad with smaller diameter bits, which are fine for this application since you don't need to cut real deep. I think I settled on 1/16 up cut 2 flute end mills.

[myxpykalix]

isn't that also called color core?

[joe]

Thanks Jack, Your correct.

I love PVC although I haven't tried Color Core. I've not had any trouble with melting or cutting small letters, even on 1/8" stock. The trick is, don't use spiral bits. A strait bit does the trick. It leaves the shavings behind, there by keeping the letters in place. No tabs-bridges are needed.

It should be noted, this material doesn't have the same consistance for all manufacturers. And colored PVC, like black, is a totally different product. No hints on that.

Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

[zeykr]

From what little I've seen, the rowmark is a thin hard plastic layering usually about 1/8th thick - commonly used for electrical panel lettering etc.

Colorcore is a different type of layered plastic kinda like starboard probably polyethylene and is usually 1/2 to 3/4 thick and used for signs at marinas, parks, and in the play area at Mcdonalds.

Same idea, just different materials and thicknesses.

[bryson]

Jack, ColorCore is not PVC. It's HDPE (high density polyethylene.
Bryson

[joe]

Bryson,

I haven't tried ColorCore but what you're saying makes perfect sence. Everyoone who has used it compalins of fuzzies just like HDPE. I'm so glad you posted.

[bryson]

Joe, Centurion tools make a bit specifically for ColorCore that work really well. I usually only need to blow them off with the air nozzel.
Bryson