Masking experiments

[joe]

I took a few minutes today taking Masking to another level. With rough textured lumber, I used rubber cement and Spraylat as masks.


5827

For those who don't know what Spraylat is, it's a latex used in the sign industry for masking. Here I'm painting on a very thick coat. I was somewhat concerned the rough texture might cause problems


5828

As you can see it pealed off very well. However because the board is so rough, even a perfect mask will leave a little saw tooth to letters. But a whole lot faster and acurate than hand painting.


5829

This is the rubber cement, poured on rough cedar. It should be left generiously thick.


5830

I didn't place the transfer tape over the rubber cement on purpose. The paper isn't the mask. It's placed over the rubber for removal. You may notice some defects in the rubber mask. This can happen but can be easily repaired before painting.

Happy Masking

Joe Crumley
http://www.normansignco.com/workshop.htm

[ray_skaines]

Joe, your experimentation is interesting. For something different to try use reflective vinyl on top of your snake oil mask. I use reflective vinyl where some vinyl or mask will fail. (Example: when someone wants their igloo ice chest lettered I go with reflective because of it's aggressive adhesion)

Ray
www.srsigns.com (http://www.srsigns.com)

[myxpykalix]

Joe,
Have you ever tried using "Anchorseal" as a masking substance? It is like a "wax paint".
https://www.uccoatings.com/prod_anchorseal.php

I use it to seal freshly sawn logs to keep them from cracking.

[brucehiggins]

Joe,
Which of the two do you prefer? Advantages/disadvantages?
Bruce

[joe]

Thanks fellows.

Ray, I bet your right. Reflective might even provide extra protection. I'll try that. It's rather expensive though.

Bruce, The perfect masking material would stick to a variety of surfaces and not lift, in the smaller cut areas. It would also be easy to remove. I'm working on it.

Good idea Jack. Now it's your time to start testing. Lets see how you do.

Joe
www.normansignco.com/workshop.htm (http://www.normansignco.com/workshop.htm)

[butch]

Joe, Jack and Ray....
Thanks
That helps the learning curve.

Butch

[joewino]

Thanks, Joe...you are just an amazing fellow. You must not sleep at night, and just stay away thinking up all these great ideas.

[joe]

Thanks Raymond,

You should sign up for my workshop. I have lots more tricks like these I'm be willing to share.

I'd even set a pallet and pillow for your afternoon nap. We'd turn the router off, and do some quiet Sculpt Nouveau while you take your rest.

Everyone would like to see you. We have folks coming from everywhere and you're welcome.

Joe
www.normansignco.com./workshop.htm (http://www.normansignco.com./workshop.htm)

[joewino]

Thanks for the special invitation, Joe. It would be fun to learn all about your great procedures, but I'm afraid all that creative stuff would just make me tired.

Work has never really bothered me...as long as someone else is doing it.

[joe]

Shucks!

[wendell]

Joe,
How did you carve the letters above?
Did you use Partwizard and what kind of bit did you use? How tall is the letter?

[wendell]

Joe,
I forgot to ask when you're planning to do your class. Do you have any room left?

Wendell

[joe]

Wendell,

The letters were 4" V carved with a 120 degree bit. I've never used Partwizard so don't know if it will do V carving. I use ArtCam.

The Class has one open seat. It begins Sept. 17-19.

Joe
www.normansignco.com./htm (http://www.normansignco.com./htm).