New sign photos

[jhicks]

Final version of a new double sided hanging blade sign before delivery. Materials were PVC base with raised beveled letters and border, HDU dimensional shoes, painted with polyurethane finish.

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[ckurak]

WOW!

Very nice! That should grab some attention.

[john_l]

Once again, well done Jerry.

[joe]

Excellent!

Jerry your amaze me. I never know what you will come up with next.

Keep up the good work.

[jhicks]

Thanks gentlemen, We appreciate the positive feedback. Now all we can hope for is that it not only gets Lori some more shoe biz but that folks will ask where she got it and get us some new biz as well.
The real credit goes to my daughter Whitney for the design and fabrication strategy.
All I did was implement her plan.
Glad you enjoyed the photos as much as we always enjoy yours.

[jhicks]

I thought I sent a thank you out earlier but guess I forgot to press send. Regardless we appreciate the feedback and all credit for design and fab strategy goes to my daughter Whitney. I just implement what she designs.
Now we hope Lori sells more shoes and someone wants a sign like hers from the folks who made it. At least thats our goal, increase the customers presence and biz while increasing ours at the same time.
Always fun to get feedback so post your latest soon for us to see.

[sebago_signworks]

Could you briefly explain how you did this, and with what sub-straights please. Its a great sign. Is this PVC boared out to create the border?

[jhicks]

Devin, I have been away from the forum a while and just saw your inquiry. The simple answer to your question is as follows.
1) Cut the sign blanks interior and outside on prepainted and masked (Post Catalysed Polyurethane paint)white PVC to dimension and shape. Since it is a 2 sided sign we make 2 identical pieces.
By the interior "detail" I mean we cut the recessed color areas (Purple below shoes, black line under text, and a very shallow outline just along the inside of the vectors to later use as guidelines for positioning the applique letters and shoes, and finally predrill holes to poistion glue and screw the raised applique pieces and border on later)
2) The letters were designed in V Carve Pro and cut with a 90 degree v 1/2" deep in an outside profile V bevel, on prepainted black and masked material then cut through the remaining 1/4" of the 3/4" Komatex/Cellular PVC sheet.
3) The Border(s) were cut from 1/2" thick prepainted/masked (Black) PVC in a simple profile with a beveled inside edge.
4) The shoes were cut in HDU and later hand sanded for dimension and hand painted.
5) After all parts/sheets are prepainted, masked,then cut, we paint all the edges and 2nd coat as needed.
Now that we have the components ready for assembly, we simply allign the applique pieces within the previously cut .032 deep inside profile borders. Pilot drill through the previously positioned and drilled holes into the applique components.
Assembly
1) Glue and screw (stainless screws) in the letters, and shoes from the backs.

2) We added some internal metal brackets at 90 degrees to the eye bolt threads to secure the mounting eyelets into the center of the sign panels before gluing the panels together rather than rely on screw thread into the material.

3)Sandwich/clamp,glue the 2 preassembled panels together back to back and screw together around the perimeter under the raised border area in predrilled pilot holes.
4) Glue and clamp raised borders on and leave to cure.

Hope that helps.
PS. This same basic process is very common for us and is essentially the same method described in the "My English Garden" post with some in process photos.

[magic]

I'm going to stick to making gaskets, that's too much work.

[blackhawk]

Jerry - I have a question about the application of the letters. I believe that I follow what you did in your step 2) above for cutting out the letters. You mention that you made an outline on the main sign and then screwed the letters on from the back. Is your "outline" just that or is it a pocket that the letters fit into?

[jhicks]

Hi Brad, actually we have done it both ways but the "outline" referred to in this case is just that or more appropriately an "inline". We generally use an 1/8" bit or even an 1/8" ball nose to cut.031 deep following the vectors on the INSIDE of the font. This gives a true level and square font positioning guideline to place the letters over (read cover up), glue, and screw. As a secondary benefit it gives us some area for the adhesive to lay into along the edges.
I like an adhesive sold at HD called "polyseam seal" which dispensed white and dries clear (check labels for clear as it also comes in white when dry). Easy to wipe edge clean after mounting but use screws as an absolute assurance they won't ever come loose and are tight to the panel as adhesive dries which eliminates slipping and any need for clamps.
When we machine the entire area clear its again 1/32 deep but we don't mess with trying to truly INLAY the pieces as a cut strategy. With a small bit and a shallow cut, its quicker to chisel/skive away any sharp inside corners radiused by the bit and lay the letter in. Takes a few seconds extra even with large areas machined with a 1/4"+ bit.
Either way works to accomplish a simpler assembly and level font/ detail applique allignment. Just cover the line, eyeball to allign the pieces, and you're good to screw in place.
Magic, tell me more about gaskets? Anything that we can cut and sell is a winner so enlighten me please.
Thanks