Over Size Sign Question?

[signtist]

I have a 3'-10"x14' single sided sign to route.
My 48x96 ShopBot is setting close to the end wall so I can't slip the part through one end.
How do you route half the sign and rotate it to route the other half?
Any tips out there? thanks John

[zeykr]

Not sure if this is in HDU or something else. If Hdu, can you route in 2 halfs and glue to a substrate like mdo?

[donchapman]

I successfully routed a 14" long HDU sign by dividing it into two files with the right edge of the first one and the left edge of the second one being at the same vertical cross cut point between two letters or words.

I then used biscuits, long course-thread pocked screws, and urethane glue to butt join the two ends.

The HDU was 1.5" thick and the sign was mounted on an exterior wall, so I had no need for any backing material.

I drilled through the face and used self tapping concrete screws to secure the sign to the mortar joints of the brick wall, and then touched up the screw heads with the background color. I didn't putty them over the screw heads because I want to be able to find the screws so I can take down the sign if necessary.

It worked great.

[phil_o]

Don, is it safe to assume that you meant 14' not 14"?

[donchapman]

Yes, 14 feet not inches.

[chiloquinruss]

John, just thinking out loud here as I have NOT tried this but . . . . Split the design, route half, rotate the material to route the second half. Here's the tricky part, could you use the ShopBot probe to locate the ACTUAL locations of the edges of the first cutting. Using that information you could then insure that the second 'half' would line up correctly. Again I have NOT tried this but I think it 'should' be possible. Russ

[signtist]

I haven't thought of routing 2 seperate pieces, then glue together. That would be a little easier to handle. The pocket backgroung would need to be cleaned up a bit.
But I need to "Hand Carve" a woodsie texture to the background anyway.
I've never used pocket screws, I simply butt and clamp. The back will get a french cleat.

[beacon14]

If you are working with a 14' blank and don't mind a few holes in your table, you can rout locating holes in the back of the workpiece and the table, then use dowels in the locating holes to position the workpiece to rout the first half, flip and re-position for the second half.



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[joe]

John,

I'm sure there are several ways to complete this project but I never divide my panels. Partially because I use wood as well as HDU. As you know wood doesn't butt joint well and looks awful.

Here is an example. Lets say you have a 14' panel. In your design program divide the panels in two parts. I think you are using Flexi or Corel. I'd divide it 6'&8' and save them as A & B. On each one the router strategy would be center justification.

Out on the router bed, I'd screw down a strait edge the legnth of the table. An 8' piece of MDO
would work. This will be the guide to let you push your panel back and forth with near perfect register.

Place your, to be routed, panel against the register. Mark the center zero mark for panel (A).Zero the maching and rout away. Once (A) is finished, push the panel forward or back until you are under the zero mark for (B). Now import (B) and finish up the routing.

Feel free to call if you have questions.

[beacon14]

My 48x96 ShopBot is setting close to the end wall so I can't slip the part through one end.

He can't slide the panel far enough to machine the other end without flipping the workpiece around.

[thecustomsignshop]

Hi Ken.

We do it here all the time. Alignment is critical and there are many ways to to this. You need to find what works best for you...

We use index pegs (similar to what Dave had outlined) in the table just for this function, however, I find it is more critical as to where your going to make the slice or slices..

I find it really depends on the sign design and the type of sign your doing. Wood or MDF, grain matching, etc. all comes into play. Carved, raised letter, 3d, etc..

Do you have a workup you can publish?

We have one in the shop now that is 5x10 with a multi layer 3D boarder. In this case, we have 9 sections, the core oval is out of a single 4x8 and the boarders are added using biscuits and screws.

A v-grooved sign can be sliced in the middle of a letter only if you really had to, but, I find it is a bad idea to split a raised letter in the middle. In this case, go for a slice between letters.

Try to make the slice in a flat area if you can..

We use artcam, so slicing is not a real big deal, but the slice must be made perfectly or you will have an issues. Never hurts to try a smaller practice one out of scrap..

Your also welcome to call me if you have any questions. Best of luck to you..

[wcsg]

Didn't read the entire thread but this might be what your looking for

http://www.thesignsyndicate.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1602