Pleasant Oaks

[joe]

I finally got a chance to photograph this panel. It's a two hour drive and I found it in the shade of a large tree.


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[toych]

Beautiful as always Joe. I really like the fade on the background.

Is there fading on the pleasant Oaks text or is that shadows?

Darren

[curtiss]

Great work Joe.

The sign is so much more pleasant than a lot of other signs you have done.....

[loriny]

A thing of beauty.
Is the background textured and everything else applied?
Lorin

[joe]

Thanks guys,

Yes Lorin, I reduced the background down with the router a .50", then lightly signdblasted the texture. The letters are Dybond and vinyl.


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They're a couple of change I'm making in all my signs. First is less texture for backgrounds. Second is the exagerated borders. They're getting bigger and bigger. By doing this, it seems to me, the whole sign gains body.

I'd appreciate any input on these changers.

Joe
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

[pete]

Joe

Do you use a Grain Fraim type of fixture when you sandblast to get the horizontal lines texture?

Pete

[zeykr]

Very nice Joe. We saw a Pleasant Oaks sign in progress during your workshop, so very interesting to see a completed picture.

[khalid]

I am really happy to see such a great work

[joewino]

Great job there, old man. I agree about the borders. Makes a really classy sign.

I'm a student of Gary Anderson and his work tends toward larger and larger borders.

Keep the inspiration coming, Joe.

[applik]

I luv the colors and style against the used brick. Very classy looking and you did a excellent job. But then I don't think I've seen anything other than superb workmanship from your posts.
Shari

[rcnewcomb]

I assume that is sign foam. What do you use for glue to attach the different pieces?

[dakers]

Joe, i like it. i did one very similar for a client about 20 years ago in redwood. it is not weathering well with warping and splitting and some rotting where splits are. The price for two new ones came to the $4,000 plus range and i decided to use HDU but then had the idea to give them a two tier price using Gemini Letters on the brick instead of a sign. They still have not made a decision but around here if i just quote the 3x10 hdu signs i later drive by and see gemini letters or even a dibond with vinyl letters. You seem to have several gifts. It is one thing to make the sign but another to sell it. I would be interested in the sales process behind the sign. did you offer them a three tiered approach or just sell them the HDU right away. Keep up the good work, it give me confidence to be able to sell more of them too.
i do like the three tiered approach to pricing around here. they are always trying to save money.

[joe]

Thanks to everyone for the kind words of encouragement and complements.

The above panels is a single piece of HDU sandblasted with a grainframe. The maroon letters are dybond attached with silicone glue. This is a very simple strait forward panel.

My venture into the sign business wasn't by plan. It's a default away from my profession as an art teacher were the pay was meager. Signs are an easy financial score. Armed with a CNC it's a particularly good retirement vocation.

It's the title of teacher, which I'm most proud of. I miss my kids.

[joewino]

You're still a teacher, Joe.

[zeykr]

Yep, still a teacher. Your students are just a lot older and larger than they used to be.

[carlosgmarroquin]

I don't know If you have noticed, but every post is a little class in itself.

Thank you.

[rb99]

Hi Joe,

This is a beautiful project.

I was wondering about the durability of gluing the sign together? Are your winters very severe?

Thanks,

Richard

[joewino]

I think Winter came on Thursday last year here in Texas, but it may be colder there since Joe is a little further north.

We use the same adhesives as Joe and have found no problems here, but the winters are mild. Heat is our problem and Joe's procedures work well for that.

[rb99]

Winter for me is very very cold and long!

An ad on the radio said "In canada we have July, and winter..."

Seriously though the snow and ice are a problem, because water can get on and into crevasses and ledges and melt in the sun and freeze and expand when the sun goes away.

RIB

[toych]

I for one owe Mr. Crumley a debt of gratitude. The advise he dispensed both here and on CNC Bucket are truly a great gift. As a novice sign maker ( I use the term very loosely ) the knowledge I've gained from reading Joes posts is priceless. It has allowed to make a living doing something I love to do. I've always admired carved signs and know I'm creating some myself. Although nowhere near the level of Joe and some of the other folks here, every sign I make is another step towards achieving the level of craftsmanship I aspire to.

I installed this sign Monday afternoon, designed with help from Joes tutorials and Mike Stevens book ( not perfect but I'm working on it ). Another customer saw it and has asked me to come by and talk to them about replacing their old sign. Hopefully I can sell enough of them to get myself to one Joes workshops.

As Ken and Carlos say, Every time you post Joe, your virtual class comes to attention.

My mission.....post a picture of one of my signs here and have someone ask if it's one of Crumley's.

Thanks Joe

Darren

ps I'm not a** kissing, just appreciative.



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[dakers]

Darren, i like the install method you chose. How large is the sign. It looks like 4x8 ft. what type anchors did you use in the brick/mortar? did you have to anchor through the wall?

[joewino]

Darren - very nice. You certainly should be proud of your work. It looks like you learned a lot from Mike's book.

[toych]

Thank you Raymond. Mike's book is a must read.

Dick, I used 5/8" lead anchors. I drilled the holes a little deep, pumped them full of West System six ten and let the bracket sit over the weekend. Time will tell but it seems very strong.

The sign is 48 x 72. Wish I knew how to calculate wind load.

[joe]

Excellent work Darren.

The layout and counstruction has been well though out. I wish half of the signs made today had these considerations.

Here's a little sugesstion:

The masters of the blade signs comes from the British Isles. Some of the best I've ever seen are for Pubs and Road Houses. It's a fun investigation.

Perhaps you might look into some decorative iron to set your sign off.

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Joe
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

[dakers]

Darren, I am thinking at 90mph probably around approx. 31 psf. so you should be very safe as far as the pull out on the anchors in sturdy brick/mortar. When i use the lead anchors i usually install them so they put pressure on the brick rather than the mortar. Works better in old brick buildings. There are so many types of anchors today i need to study them again.
I am impressed with the thought behind the installation and how it was done. We used to use guy wires in the old days but they looked so ugly.

[toych]

Joe, iron like that would definitely elevate the project.

I'm visualizing it on the bracket and wishing I had add something like that.

[joe]

Darren,

One easy way to get started is to draw a full scale image and have a couple of welding shops look it over. I bet you'll be surprized how cheap it is. If you don't have a large printer, your CNC, majic marker and some craft paper will do the job.

Here's a panel I did with the above iron pattern


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Check out the premade decoration available from King Cast Iron. I used a couple on the above sign.

Joe
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

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