First Ever Sign!!

[associated]

I need some help. We are boatbuilders and naval architects but I have offered to make a sign on our new shopbot for the local yacht services center!! I did not realise what effort goes in to making a 3D routed sign!! I have carved out the attached in a 2 lb insulation foam and plan on epoxy priming to make the sign a little more rhobust. Then I was going to get some automotive paint mixed to the right colours, brush this on and then clear coat for a nice durable shine that may last 3-5 yrs in the Caribbean sun.
6393 However, after seing Joe Crumleys portfolio on his web site I realise that the sign needs to be finished like his. WOW!?! Very impressive.

My questions are: What type of base and finishing materials are these type of signs made of? Foam, wood, (sealed) mdf ,epoxy, polyester, water based, spray, brush?!?! There is just too much info out there for me to get the bull by the horns? Any assistance would be gratefull.

Zak @ AMD

[joewino]

There are many different materials and finishes for these things and every signperson has their favorites.

Our dimensional signs are produced with 15# HDU (SignFoam3 brand) and then finished with 100% acrylic water based paints. There is no need for a clear coat if premium products are used throughout the process.

The HDU also comes in more dense structures if there is the possibility that it may receive some rough treatment.

We spray our latex paints with a HVLP gun and then do the detail work with brushes.

Good luck with your project.

[associated]

Thanks Raymond,

Can you recommend a brand of paint?

Zak - AMD

[steve_wms]

Not that you've asked, but for the design above, I'd probably assemble the sign in layers rather than spend a huge amount of time 3-d routing the entire face. Pieced together signs happen to also be much quicker and easier to paint.

Also, one issue you may have with the dimensional letters is that they appear to be a bit too deep for the height and stroke of the font. That extra depth can interfere with the readability of the text from different angles and because of the play of shadows over the surface during the course of a day.

The vast majority of signs I do are out of expanded pvc. For your design, I'd do all of the parts in pvc except for the sails. Those I'd do in HDU or the foam you've used.

For paint I am now (almost) exclusively using Matthews Acrylic Polyurethane. It's pricey, but it ends up being the most cost efficient when all of the time and labor are strictly accounted for, and it has every additive you could imagine along with very rich and vibrant colors that can be mixed to pms standards. I've pretty much given up on acrylic, but will still use PPG's Direct to Metal for some applications because it's just about the only product besides acrylic polyurethane that will consistently stick to plastic.

I too use an HVLP, but seem to rarely use a brush anymore. What's up with that?

[joewino]

Whatever brand you may use, my recommendation is always buy "top of the line" (aka - most expensive). This is no place to cut corners.

The best 100% acrylic latex that I've found is Porter (Porter-sept) Exterior Satin.

We also use Sherwin Williams Super Paint every now and them.

It will also stick to PVC without any primer - just scuff the surface with sandpaper or steel wool and clean with alcohol.

Other folks have found success with other type paints, but this is what works best for us in the Texas heat for the type of signs we produce.

I also agree with Steve that it would be easier (and produce a sharper image) to do your logo in layers.

Keep us posted on the progress.

[associated]

After all the helpful responses I think I will be sealing the foam with epoxy. Ebond that we have in the shop. I did a test piece and it also makes the sign more rhobust. Finishing, I will be going to sherwin williams here in Trinidad to see what they have. Then clear coating everything else.

Next time ill definately do the sign in layers. It makes the most sense and as for finishing & definition. Far faster. 3D on millwizzard really takes long especially when finishing a 28" sign.

I am also going to epoxy a plywood insert in the back of the sign for the attachment points as it is going to hang.

Thanks for the help.

Zak - AMD

[bahed]

Can someone explain what you mean by doing the sign in layers ? Is that just a series of parallel 2D cuts ?

I have cut a few 2D things out recently, so I am all eyes and ears when it comes to learning new methods for other applications.

[kimon]

I beleive he is reffering to cutting different elements and finishing them seperatly then attaching them all together to finish the sign.

Another added benifet of doing the job this way is instead of (for example) using 3" foam and milling it down to acheive your different layers you can use 1" foams and still have some elements which are three inches thick after being attached to the background pieces.