Corner cabinets

[loriny]

Has anyone had experience cutting the angled ends on the faces of corner cabinets like are in the library or does it cut to size and we trim on table saw? Normally I have cut a stringer to go inside the cabinet to mount the door to eliminating the need for a spacer between cabinets. Or is there a spacer needed if using the correct hinge?

[Gary Campbell]

Lorin...
The "mitered" parts are cut long enough on the CNC to allow angle cutting with a router or table saw.

I am not sure which hardware brand you are using, but the BLUM brand that we use allows any configuration required without an additional piece either inside or outside of the cabinet. We often add these to the outside with a zero front dimension to make installation easier.
Gary

[loriny]

that shouldn't be a problem. I bo use Blum so I should be good. What do you mean by .We often add these to the outside with a zero front dimension to make installation easier
Thank you for the help
Lorin

[thewoodcrafter]

Lorin,

What type of cabinet are you building, face framed or frameless?

Don't use the door size it says in e-cabinets. It will be too wide.

[Gary Campbell]

Lorin...
We often add an angled ripper that matches the corner cabinet angle to the front corner where it meets the adjacent cabinet.
Hope this helps.
Gary

[loriny]

Frameless. If I narrow the door will it work?
Lorin

[thewoodcrafter]

Frameless -

I don't miter the front edges of the sides.
I just edgeband them as is. The sides end up 3/4" deeper so that the whole cabinets sits proud.
I do veneer this 3/4" space to match.
The crown looks pretty cool following this.
The door opening needs to be measured and then I add 1/4" to the width (1/8" overlay each side).
I use Blum 45 degree clip top hinges and a 0mm plate.
You don't need fillers next to this corner cabinet this way.

[loriny]

I like that idea. I think I will put in my order for the link and give it a try.
Lorin

[thewoodcrafter]

I don't think you will ever regret it.

[kerry_fullington]

Roger,

Email me your corner cabinet and the dimensions you want the door to be at kerry@kerryfullington.com (mailto:kerry@kerryfullington.com) and I bet we can adjust the settings and get eCabinets to give you the proper door size.

[loriny]

I tried looking at the 3D cabinet(15" deep x 27 widex15 ) 5/8 material. I set reveal to 7/8 each side and it looks good. Does that sound near what you were having to change your doors by? I think I will order the door like this and hope for the best. I won't be able to cut them yet as I am waiting for the link and want to wait to try it.
Will let know how it works
Lorin

[thewoodcrafter]

Lorin,

I would bet it will not fit. If it's too wide it will bind with the doors next to it.

I would wait to cut the file first and measure the opening.

[kerry_fullington]

Lorin, Roger,

You can check measurements on any cabinet by taking it to the Cabinet Editor and opening the Measurement Tool (the tape measure icon)
Select your cabinet by double clicking on it then mouse over the parts to select two nodes to measure between. (Press the M key on your keyboard to see all nodes)
If you are having trouble selecting the correct nodes use the right click menu to hide parts that are in your way.
For a corner cabinet opening I would press the up arrow key to look at the top of the cabinet then hide the top and measure between the sides. Use this measurement to determine your door reveals to correctly size the door. You can use a negative inset for the door if it needs to move out a bit to accommodate your hinge. (There was a long thread about this on the eCabinets forum but I haven't been able to locate it.)
The whole purpose of cabinet design software is to be able to work these problems out before you cut the job so you don't have to wait till a job is done to order correct sized doors.

[bill_lumley]

Has anyone figured out how to get hinge mounting plate holes to get put in the gables of a corner cabinet ? I have an angle front style cabinet and I assign a door to the opening with hinges and hardware holes assigned . When it recalculates I can see it 'wants' to put hinge mounting holes there BUT when I explode the cabinet there are no holes for the hinge mounting plates . My last job I had to drill them on site and want to avoid this from now on . The shelf pin holes are fine .

Thanks Bill

[Gary Campbell]

Bill...
I just tried this and it looks like you will have to add PE cuts to the gables for hinges. Hopefully I am wrong and those that know will chime in.
Gary

[kerry_fullington]

Bill, Gary,

I am probably missing something here but I just tried this using the standard upper corner and I get holes for the mounting plate. Do you have a hole pattern associated to your hinge mounting plate?


677

[nat_wheatley]

Bill,

Increase the depth of the holes for the hinge plates. I had the same issue. I went into the hole pattern for the hinge I was using on that cabinet, inflated the depth of the hinge plate holes, and that seemed to do it. (Can't remember what depth I have entered).

Nat

[bill_lumley]

Nat , I was thinking that would do it also . I tried a 1" depth and that was not enough . I am sure there is a bug in the software here that expects the cabinet side to be perpendicular to the door where this does no thappen for this cabinet type only . I will e-mail my definition file to Kerry and see if there is something else I missed .

[nat_wheatley]

Bill,

For what it's worth, I just checked, and for my angeled angled upper cabinets I had to set up a hinge with 19mm deep hinge plate holes, and for base angled cabinets, 32mm deep hinge plate holes. Not sure there's a method to the madness but I have gotten it to work. May be worth trying even more than the 1"...

Nat

[erniek]

I went thru the same problems with my angled corner cabinets. I build using frameless construction. The software assumes that you'll be mitering the side gables at a 45 degree angle and makes the gables wider by the thickness of the material that you are using. I didn't want to mitre the gables so I inset the gables at the front edge by the panel thickness.

I was trying to adjust the door size so that it was what I wanted by adjusting the reveal however I found that when I did this the hinge plate holes were moved forward by the amount of the reveal and also the depth of the holes were reduced by the amount of the reveal. Now I just leave no reveal and manually calculate the door size.

[erniek]

I made an error in my last post. I don't use an inset to adjust the width of the gables, I decrease the cabinet depths by the thickness of the panel material.

[thewoodcrafter]

Ernest,
I do the same thing with the door size.

But I do let the cabinet sides run 3/4" long.
I think it looks really nice when the crown follows that. It is a little work cutting the crown but I think worth it.

[nat_wheatley]

Bill,

One other thought is to make sure that the depth you set for the hinge holes actually gets applied to the holes. I've had the entered depth not take before. I 'always' do a 3D view of a newly created hinge hole pattern, to make sure that the holes weren't created with a depth of 0.

Again, just a thought.

Nat

[kerry_fullington]

Bill,

I emailed you but I will post it here also. I placed a 1" Negative Depth to your hinge plate holes in the Hardware Hole editor and it then cuts a 3/8" deep hole in the gable. You can adjust the negative depth to get the depth of hole you need.

Kerry

[bill_lumley]

Thanks for all the input today guys . I have been out of the shop all day so haven't had time to digest but will post when I think it is resolved in some fashion .

Thanks Again , Bill

[yamsnap]

Using eCabinet software to design Upper angled corner cabinet. Thoughts from anyone for door/hinge attachment and gable mods for cleanest look.
678

Frameless, 12" sides, 29 5/8" backs, microwave for bottom, storage space for above.

Thanks everyone,