How to fix this?

[myxpykalix]

I'm using a 60 degree vbit carving into poplar. The bit may only have 3-4 hours use on it so its relatively new. I have rerun the toolpath thinking that might clear it out but, no go. Any suggestions on how to fix this? I don't have time to order a new bit, this one came from sears (i Know). Maybe use a dremel to clean out? Or a new bit?

6869

[myxpykalix]

router speed was 15000 rpm run at (i think) about 1.7 ips. Is this a characteristic of poplar?

[ed_lang]

Glad to see you got your laptop running again!

You might want to call Centurion Tools and see if they have the V bit you need in stock. If so, it is not that far from you to grab one!

[ed_lang]

John, I just thought about this. I have never tried it and I don't know if it will even work so be warned!

If you tell the software that created the toolpath the bit is a little bit larger than it really is, you might be away with running a second pass telling the software the correct size of the bit. This will work for other straight cutters and I do it all the time. Not sure about V carving but I don't see why it would not work. Maybe you Sears bit will do the cutting this way. Poplar needs a good sharp bit like pine does.

Let us all know how telling the software the wrong size cutter works out.

[myxpykalix]

You know ed if you answered your phone you could save yourself some typing! Then again maybe you have caller id.....hmmmm

Would it help if i ran the toolpath again only adding 1 or 2 thousandths to the depth?

I understand the concept of what you are telling me but i'm not sure how that would help. Regardless of the angle of cutter the depth will dictate more the shape of the cut of the letters so i'm not clear on how changing the angle in the program would correct it?

[sawkerf]

Jack, This just looks typical of poplar to me. I use a great deal of it for cabinets and raised panel doors. Sometimes it will get fuzzy with a brand new or newly sharpened bit. Guess that's why folks around here refer to poplar as
"over-grown weeds". Kip

[gene]

Jack
If you are talking about the letters hitting together there is a way to adjust the spacing between the letters by clicking on the pointer icon with the ab beside it and holding the shift key and hitting the space bar. If you dont hold the shift key it moves the letters closer. If you do hold the shift key it moves them away from each other. Hope this helps

[Brian Moran]

Gene,
Those instructions are for VCarve Pro - Jack has never purchased VCarve Pro to our knowledge (we have asked him about it), so I assume he is using some other software he has purchased?

[ed_lang]

John,
I sure did pick a good time to haul trash today! Right when you called. 3:17PM today there you are on the ID. I think I have a custom ring for your number. Null I think it is called. :-) Guess you should have left a voice mail message.

My post said to tell the software the bit is larger than it is, NOT that the angle is different. This way the bit will not cut as deep on the first run but the second one it will cut a little deeper.

Kips suggestion is called kerning and I use it all the time.... but then I use V-Carve PRO. I find it fantastic for doing lettering and signs in general. The folks at Vectric are FANTASTIC! I asked so many questions before I bought it and I still have some now and then. Tony always has the answer and gets right back to me. If you don't have V-Carve PRO, you should buy it! Wonderful software.

I am finding I am using Corel X3 for more design work and exporting a .eps file but that might change with version 4 of VCP.

Sorry I got off topic.

[myxpykalix]

I was talking about the fuzzies inside the cut.

[joe]

JJ.

I'm with Kip on this one. I believe your problem is with Poplar. I really like this material for some work but it can generate lots of heat, leaving burn marks, and can at times be fuzzy.


Next time you run into this problem, try giving the carved area a light coat of shellac and run the bit through again. Drying time should be about an hour.

The shellac will harden off the carved fuzzy surface. A second pass should clean up nicely.

All that said: I'd also run the bit through another material to check on sharpness. Some bit come nice and dull.

I've had good luck with www.woodline.com (http://www.woodline.com). They aren't very expensive but sharp.

Joe
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

[dray]

Jack try making another pass at slower speed.
I just carved some mahogany and it did the same thing, so I went over it with the same tool and same toolpath and it cleaned it up alot, not 100% but at least 60-70% better than it was

[rookie432]

Sorry Jack,

Joe and Kip are dead on. I first started signs with Poplar because it was cheap and considered a hardwood. I'm afraid I wasted my time and money. You are more than welcome to keep trying to fix this issue with your poplar sign, but I think you're just not going to be satified. I have even had troubles with straight pocket cuts. The grain just isn't tight enough to get a clean router cut in my experience. The only thing I've run into worse is red elm. (note: if your lumber supplier offers to make you a good deal on a lumber you've not worked with before...be wary) I did this with red elm , like poplar, it's the stringiest stuff I've ever seen.
The shellac may work but it still will be rough because of the tearout.
I'm not even happy with vee carved oak in most cases.

Cherry, black walnut, and the ever coveted mahogany can't be beat.

2 cents
Bill

[myxpykalix]

I had a scrap piece of cherry that i used for a trial piece and it turned out ok, better than the poplar. The funny thing is i have probably 1000 bd ft of cherry and walnut (that i'll never use all of) and i went and bought this piece of poplar down at lowes because i had never really used poplar before on a project and wanted to try it. If i have time to redo it I may try it in cherry or walnut.