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bstern
08-14-2008, 07:14 PM
Any easy way to switch X and Y axis?

I'm setting up to bore doors and drawers on my bot. I would like to always have the longer side down the X axis. I know how to detect the aspect ratio of the part. I just need a quick way to switch the axis where necessary.
Thanks Bob

Gary Campbell
08-14-2008, 07:59 PM
Bob...
We do this often on our Bot. Can you explain why you need to do the axis swap?
Gary

dana_swift
08-14-2008, 08:27 PM
Bob I switched the X and Y on my BT-32 for exactly the reason you want to switch yours.

My math background likes the origin in the lower left corner when i face my drawings, and also my cutting table. My computer graphics background wants the origin at the upper left corner. Then shopbot goes and builds my bot with a default origin in the lower right corner.

I decided to use the math coordinate conventions..

Bob to switch your axis use the VI command and exchange X and Y. If you want one or the other to go in the opposite direction use the VU command and put a - sign in front of any axis you want to go the opposite direction. If there is already a - sign there, remove it.

D

dana_swift
08-14-2008, 08:30 PM
Bob one more thought- if you switch the axis, the C1 command will probably burp on you as the limit switches are checking the wrong axes. I modified the C1 command program so it works correctly with either definition. If you would like a copy let me know.

D

bstern
08-14-2008, 09:33 PM
Dana, Thanks for the heads up on the VI command.
Looks like it will work great.

Gary, What I am doing is setting up to bore doors and drawers on the bot. For this I need to install a jig to be able to place the part at 0,0. (Anyone know of any way to add pop up stops?).

My plan is to have a long wall down the X axis and a short 1" one on the Y. I hope this will make it easy to load and unload. I am using KCDW and getting all the outputs of Height down the X and width on the Y.

OK now comes the fun part, you get a thin wide drawer. I think it would be hard to get it to line up just right. The solution is to detect the aspect ratio, L/W, and if its longer wide than long to switch axis (Rotate 90 degrees).

BTW the code is already written for when I Cut the part myself on the bot. I am now setting up for doors and drawer front I outsource.

Pop us stops would avoid the whole thing. If anyone had added this please let me know!

Gary Campbell
08-14-2008, 11:22 PM
Bob...
I am working on a couple versions of what I think you are looking for. I am going to have to change my complete table layout to acommadate a dual Z in the near future, so many changes (read accessories) are in order.

The pop up index idea I have played with has simply air cylinders that have been set vertically into the bottom of the table and placed as needed. Assuming edge of cylinder at zero Y, X center at 1, 11,23,47 etc another at approx 0,1 for the X zero.

I am leaning towards using a half dozen air slide tables to move a 1" square aluminum tube that can be machined to a true edge and retract a couple inches when not in use.

It looks like we have very similar "needs" for the indexing parts, but will approach the cutting of outsourced door/drawer fronts much differently. I will be writing another of my "Clunky Menu" driven partsfiles that will allow me to do any boring needed without a drawing. For this I will simply assume and place the part against the index mechanism with either X or Y as vertical and enter the component size and what hardware is required, and allow the machine to work.

This method should work for 35mm hinge bore & screw holes,(we use the minipress) pull boring, and any front or back bored hardware in drawer fronts or doors. Hope this helps

Gary

knight_toolworks
08-14-2008, 11:59 PM
I must be missing something here. why have such a short piece for the y? I guess you can get your fingers under the part a bit easier but there are ways around that. just use a two part fence with a gap in it.
if you make a jig that sits on top of the table you could add pop ups no problem. me I like a large 90 square for setup like this
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s266/knighttoolworks/cnc%20jigs%20and%20parts/clamps4.jpg

Gary Campbell
08-15-2008, 12:13 AM
Steve...
Even tho you can go to any length that you wish, all that is needed to index something is 2 points in 1 direction and 1 in the other.
Gary

bstern
08-15-2008, 11:28 AM
Steve...

I will still be use the vacuum on my table. Loading and unloading OVER the top of hard Jig can lead to scratching of the part (Thermofoil). The MDF top of the vacuum table is much more forgiving. Large 90 square is what I started to think about. I did a little simulation and this problem surfaced.

Gary...

Any info on those cylinders? If I could use 2 on X to bring up an indexing fence and 2 pop up pins on Y, that would be pretty awesome.

BTW: I am working on printing Bar Code labels with all the pertinent info about overlays and L&W. These will be applied at check in. Then taken to the machine mounted and the bar code will be read. Part processed both sides without moving the part. As I work with shared panels this get crazy if you do anything but 1/4 overlay on a boring machine. Piece of cake for the Bot. My calculations say this is about the same speed as using a boring machine without making any adjustments. No big speed enhancements just the ability to mix overlays without errors. A great step forward for me. It also does all drilling for hardware. This is the big time saver.

knight_toolworks
08-15-2008, 01:17 PM
I see where your coming from but what about some sign foam for the fence? I used pockets to hold my fence in place. if you used a stiff foam with rounded edges would it be an issue? since there is no pressure on the square like there is on my setup.

Gary Campbell
08-15-2008, 05:23 PM
Bob...
I have a few that are from McMaster. 3/4" bore, 1/4-28 threads on the shaft, 1/2-13 threads on the nose mounting, stroke from 1/2" to 5"

I was looking to drill a 3/16 hole for each with the bot for location, then counterbore from the bottom to allow 1/2-13 tap to mount cylinder, drill 5/15 hole for shaft clearance. I was going to cut off the threads on the end of the shaft and round slightly. I was looking at 1.5 to 2" stroke. Single action: about $15
Gary