English Wheel

[pro70z28]

I am building an English Wheel for the upcoming rebuilding of the firewall in the "Z" - 70 camaro.
I planned to weld it together yesterday, but I stripped the threads in the TIG torch so that was the end of that for now. Below is the lower anvil assembly I cut out of aluminum on the shopbot. I'll post a couple more pics. when the welder is back in operation.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Englishwheel1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Englishwheel2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Englishwheel3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Englishwheel4.jpg

[john_l]

That's very cool. I have seen a few of your other posts a little while back. I think it's neat you handle that thick aluminum like a very well equiped machine shop.

You may have posted this before, sorry. But what machine, bit, feed rate, and step down are you using to get these great results?

[pro70z28]

Thanks John. I have the tools preset from a long time ago, so I'm going from old memory here. 2 flute carbide 1/4'' bit. I "think" the feed rate is. .03 & Step down is .03. I might be off on that a little. Then I just set the spindle speed til' I get nice chips & the cutter sounds right.

[geneb]

Gary, how do you get the speed down that far? I've been cutting 6061 recently and the only way I can keep from destroying bits is to set my feed to 2.0 and then change the VU speed divisor (I don't recall the exact name of the parameter) to 16. It was my understanding that the SB software won't take a Movement Speed of less than .4. Is this no longer the case?

tnx!

g.

[beacon14]

The lowest move speed SB will accept is .05 ips

[pro70z28]

It will go lower than .05. When you send the job a warning will come up saying you are outside the parameters of the program. I just tell it to run anyway and it bypasses the warning.

[beacon14]

Does it not reset the speed to .05 after you accept the warning?


836

[Brady Watson]

For speeds lower than let's say .4 IPS, try using the "Slow Speed Generation for Unusual Requirements" under VU in the control software. It will effectively divide the clock that the SB runs on to enable smooth, reliable cutting at ultra slow speeds. Remember to change the setting back to 1 when you are done slow cutting.

-B

[geneb]

Is there a magic dividing number that will effectively make inches/sec actually inches/minute?

So doing VU<whatever> would mean MS,1.0,0.5 actually be moving in inches/minute?

tnx!

g.

[Brady Watson]

The 'Slow Speed Generation' cannot be used to adjust from IPS to IPM. The very simplest way to handle this would be to use the following conversion:

MS in Inches per Second = Inches per Minute divided by 60 (IPS = IPM / 60)

MS in Inches per Minute = Inches per Second times 60 (IPM = IPS x 60)

-B

[pro70z28]

David. I just click O.K. when that box comes up and it runs the speed I had set. I have noticed however that once in awhile the travel speed changes slightly. Not always and not on all jobs but it does happen. I might have to give Brady's approach a try to see how it works. Thanks.

[geneb]

Brady: I'll give that a shot, but I don't think the software will accept a .016 movement speed. However, according to Gary it just may work...

tnx.

g.

[pro70z28]

I did a little more on the E-Wheel yesterday. I was wrong about the settings. I must have been thinking about steel settings. I cut this aluminum at .3 XY travel, .02" cut depth & .02" Z travel. I only have to override the "Z" setting on this set up. When I cut steel slower, I have two speeds to override.

A guy I talked to on the phone that builds E-Wheels said if I build one it needs to be very sturdy & needs a lot of adjustment built in. So, this is what I came up with for the top anvil. It's a little more complicated than it needs to be, but I had a couple old air actuated hydraulic cylinders laying around that I wanted to make use of. I got them for free probably about 30 years ago and finally decided it's time to use what's left of them. I found one of the cylinder housings was corroded through but the ram was still good & that's what I needed for the anvil adjuster. Too bad they are shot, the cylinders are all aluminum (except for the ram).
Anyway here's the deal. I cut a couple sleeves out of aluminum round stock for the rams.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Ramsupportscut.jpg

Cut a couple supports for the sleeves on the ShopbBot
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/RamsupportsCNC.jpg

Parts pressed together. I didn't want the anvil assembly to rely on threads cut in aluminum, so I made this little pocket to hold a nut for the 3/4" ready rod that will be the adjusting screw.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Ramsupportpressedtogether.jpg


Turning part of the ready rod down to 5/8'' to make an adjuster out of it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/TurningReadyRod.jpg

[pro70z28]

Here's where it's at so far. I have those cylinder rams cut to length. Turned a hub for the adjusting wheel that will be mounted on top. There will be a plate where the brass bushings are to tie the adjuster to the rams, a couple mounting flanges also to cut on the ShopBot yet.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Ramscuttosize.jpg

I found some aluminum at the salvage yard that just said "I want to be an English wheel". I am building it to fit in the receiver I have on the wall for the other attachments. So, aluminum will make it a bunch lighter when I attach it to the wall to use. Old guys have to consider these things ya' know.

[pro70z28]

This afternoon I had some extra time so I drew up & cut out the adjuster wheel for the E-Wheel.

Cut the hand grips out of 1/2" PVC.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/EWheel1.jpg

1/4" aluminum for the wheel itself.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Ewheel2.jpg

Used fusor auto body panel adhesive to glue it all together.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Ewheel3.jpg

Like Norm Abram says ''I'll let it cook in the clamps overnight''.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Ewheel4.jpg

[john_l]

This gets more awesome with each post Gary. Thanks for taking time to post.I will be reading on.

[pro70z28]

Got a little more done tonight.

Cutting out the backing plate. The slots are to index the backing plate to the adjuster assembly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/E-Wheelbackingplate.jpg

Cutting out the top cap that connects the ready rod to the rams.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/RamcapEwheel.jpg

Top cap completed. The brass thrust bushings are pressed in from the top and bottom. They come about .020 short of touching each other. This allows grease to be pumped in from the grease fitting.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Ramcapfinished.jpg

Assembly is pretty close to done. This shows the index slots that align the backing plate to the assembly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Topwheeladjustmentassembly.jpg

I also added a grease fitting to each ram cylinder just to keep everything workin' smooth.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Topwheeladjustmentassembly2.jpg

[john_l]

Gary In the picture of the top cap... how did you do the edge bevel? Excellent engineering.

[pro70z28]

Thanks John. I use a regular hand router after it's off the table. I have cut the bevels before cutting the part out on the shopbot but doing it afterwards by hand is faster.

[pro70z28]

Got a little more done last night. Parts for the top anvil.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/TopAnvilYoke.jpg

[pro70z28]

I finished the top anvil assembly tonight. Time to start welding up the frame.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/TopAnvilassemblyfinished.jpg

[pro70z28]

Tonight I cut a jig to align the top & bottom anvils. Next is to cut the frame tube & match it up to the flange on the back of the top wheel assembly.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Ewheelwoodjig.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Ewheelwoofjiginstalled.jpg

[gabepari]

Don't you just love when making the tool to make the part takes longer than making the part? Really cool, can't wait to see the finished tool... and part


Gabe

[pro70z28]

You got that right Gabe.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/TopEwheelBracket1.jpg

I got the frame built. I knew when I decided to built an English Wheel light enough to easily mount to the wall receiver it would be a challenge. Deflection is not a good thing, so I am hoping to make up for the light frame with some triangulated bracing. Only time will tell if it works or becomes lawn art. I figure if it doesn't work I can always build a steel frame since the top & bottom anvil yokes are bolt ons.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/TopEwheelframebracket2.jpg

[john_l]

I'd think that should not deflect that much. Maybe like you say, Some triangle gussets or even plate the sides at the miters.

Is the frame made of tube? If so what wall thickness?

[pro70z28]

Yes, it's made of .125'' wall 2''x4'' aluminum.

[bcammack]

I'll bet you could sell that for a pretty penny to one of those celebrity fabricators like Foose, James, et al.

You'd probably want to dress the beads on the frame welds, but otherwise...

Seriously!

[bill.young]

Wasn't Jesse James the one that described the English Wheel as "the best tool for squeezing blood out of the end of your fingers"?

[pro70z28]

Thanks everybody. I've got to work on my aluminum TIG welding. I've just started welding aluminum & I've found it's a whole different deal than welding steel. I should have this project finished up by this weekend. Then I can get back to working on the "Z".

[david_white]

I have been following this thread for a wile and I am very impressed. But I still cant figure out what the thing is used for. I guess I should have paid more attention in English class.lol

[rcnewcomb]

English Wheel Wikipedia Entry (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_Wheel)
The English Wheel, also known as a wheeling machine in Britain, is typically a manually operated metalworking apparatus, that allows a craftsman to form smooth, compound curves from flat sheets of metal, such as aluminum or mild steel. It is used in coachbuilding, car restoration, racing car construction - (especially, NASCAR spaceframe chassis racing cars that have to have sheet metal panels made to resemble mass production vehicles), prototype car production, low volume sports car production (AC Cobra for example), and aviation amongst other uses. When used on thicker sheet metals such as boat or ship hulls the machine may be powered and be much larger than the one described here.

The process of using an English wheel is known as wheeling.

[pro70z28]

David. To tell you the truth I have never used one. I've never even seen one except for catalogs & the net. But I've seen what they can do and have wanted one for a long time. But, decent ones are more expensive than I care to invest in a hobby so I decided to build one. I have about $200 in this one including hardware and the anvil set. And now I'm just about done with this deal. Got all the steel parts painted black & made a plywood rack for the lower anvils. All that's left is to dial in the top anvil. Seems to have pulled the bottom in a little during the welding. A shim ought to bring it back into alignment. I tried it out and I'll be if it doesn't work. Time to get back on the "Z" now.

The plan was to make it light enough to carry around. Weighs 84 Lbs. including a set of anvils. My shoulder fits under the top arm so it's not bad taking it out & putting it in the wall receivers. I planned to put struts on the bottom arm but it seems to be pretty stable the way it is. If it becomes a problem I'll add that later. Don't want it any heavier than it has to be.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/AnvilRack.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/EnglishWheelFinished.jpg

[david_white]

Aha I get it now,nothing but A glorified sledge hammer. lol

[pro70z28]

David. This is what it does. I had to try it out.

Steelhttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/EWheelSteelsample.jpg
Aluminum http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/080aluminumwheeled.jpg

[david_white]

Now all you have to do is mount it on the end of the bot. Great work

[john_l]

I'll take a softail rear fender (200mm tire) and a couple teardrop gas tank halves.

Great work Gary.

[pro70z28]

Thanks Dave & John. I have a couple honey do things to do on the house before the weather gets any cooler, then It's time to get to work on the "Z" project.

[pro70z28]

And, it fits in the void behind the door with the Bead Roller, Shrinker/Stretcher, Plannishing Hammer & Welding table when they aren't in use. So, I'm hardly loosing any floor space at all when it's all put away. I have to add one more receiver on the storage rack for the vise since I now have one more attachment than I do storage rack receivers. On normal days this space is just more or less a hallway to the back room where the CNC is (where I normally do sign work). I need this space open so I can get materials into the room and signs back out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/metalworkingtoolstorage.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/MetalToolsStorage2.jpg

[john_l]

That corner is kinda like a ShopSmith® for the Monster Garage. Is the bicycle wheel a crank for the roller or am I seeing things wrong? Very cool.

[pro70z28]

Thanks John. Yes I took the crank off the bead roller and put the bike wheel on so it would be easier to control the roller. Got the bike wheel for free from the local bike shop because the rim is bent. Not a problem in this application. Here's a shot of it set up for use.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Beadrollertable-1.jpg


O.K. Now I'm done. For sure. I'm in the sign biz' ..... I had to do it.....what can I say? lol.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/EnglishWheeldecals.jpg