V-Grooved signs

[hol]

We've been cutting a lot of v-grooved signs with the shopbot lately.

This first sign was cut with a 120 degree v-bit, and it is about 45" across.


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These four were cut with both a 120 bit and a 45 degree bit for the smaller text.


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A couple of subdivision signs.


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This sign took a looong time to cut. All of the pool rules are v-grooved in with a 45 degree bit.


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[hines]

Larry, what type of material are you cutting on? Also, how deep did you cut with the 45 degree bit on the "Pool Rules" sign.

Dave

[myxpykalix]

You know most anyone can just cut a sign (even me!)but the real artistry comes in in the painting and finishing. Those are fantastic looking signs. I'm amazed at how you can keep the colors seperate and make them look so good! Give me some tips on how you produced those? Good job.

[hol]

Thanks! All of the signs are made out of HDU - Signfoam3. The small text on the "Pool Rules" sign is about 1/16th of an inch deep.

To keep the sharp lines between colors the signs are sprayed with One Shot and then covered with a paint mask. The sign is routed, painted, and the paint mask is then removed. The "Chandler Grove" signs have a final clear coat of Frog Juice on them.

[scottcox]

Larry,

Very stylish!

What brand of paint mask do you use? I've tried the "Conform" series from rtape.com and had poor results when v-carving with it. Feel free to learn from my mistakes. :-P

... And those dehydrated frogs should be proud!

[hol]

Scott, Thanks!

We use oracle paint mask.

[butch]

Larry
Where do you get oracle at?
Did a search but didn't find it.

[myxpykalix]

Frog juice? I've never heard of that, do you get that by squeezing frogs? Or is it easier to just put them in the blender?

[hol]

Butch - my bad, it is actually spelled Oracal. Most sign supply companies should carry it.

Ha! For the frog juice, no dead frogs! That's just the name of it. It's just a UV clearcoat.

[gene]

Well I for one was glad that no frogs were harmed in the making of theese signs....

[jhicks]

Very nice work Larry. I agree the finishing is key and it looks like you have that down. Keep posting photos. I am constantly amazed at how folks get it done out there and your techniques obviously work well.

[hol]

Thanks Jerry! It really inspires me to see what everyone else is doing. There is so much that can be done with the ShopBot! As I learn more--I will definitely share my progress.

[harryball]

The devil is in the details! Very nice finishing job. Here is a new-baby (not ours) sign unfinished with a 3D butterfly. All done in Vcarve Pro and VectorArt3D. I really want to see if finished... perhaps if I sent it to Larry :-)


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Robert

[jhicks]

Excellent cut file, nice design. Now the fun begins. Post finished photos and have enjoy.

[brian_h]

OK, let me summarize what I've learned. I'm sure other non-sign folks will find this useful so please feel free to add-to or correct what I've written.

For paint, One Shot Lettering Enamel:

"Oil based, high gloss enamels for interior or exterior use on metal, glass, wood, or masonite. Intended for sign writing on store fronts, vehicles, and wherever fine lettering work is desired"

For a paint mask, Oracal. The question I have is what number do you use for a sign like this? The 813?

"Oracal 813 Stencil Film

• Use to mask surfaces to be painted
• Blue translucent • 3 mil
• Low tack, water based adhesive
Blue translucent stencil film can be used to mask surfaces to be painted and for die cut/hand cut spray mask stencils. Excellent for car striping and aircraft marking. Blade: 45° Downforce: 85/100"

Finally, Frog Juice, which is a sunscreen (clear) to protect the sign from UV.

Signfoam looks great, but probably a little expensive for hobbywork. I'm guessing MDF for indoor signs, and maybe even exterior signs if well-sealed? Maybe exterior MDF? We just got a new Menards, so run-of-the-mill MDF is now easier to get, versus my full-product-line lumberyard about 50 miles away.