View Full Version : Slabbed Slick Bark Red Oak
myxpykalix
10-16-2008, 07:10 PM
Here is a picture of 3 of the logs from the tree and the 2 biggest sections weren't cut yet when i snapped this picture. The slabs range from 1.25" to 2" thick and the widest part was 39".
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srwtlc
10-16-2008, 09:22 PM
That looks like some beautiful grain!
Looks like some of it has some bee's wing or lacewood type pattern, nice!
Do I see a table in your future? ;-)
myxpykalix
10-17-2008, 01:48 AM
I would say probably SEVERAL! Problem is it will be next spring before i can start using any of it.
toych
10-18-2008, 03:58 PM
Very nice slabs. I you run out of room Jack I'll "store" a few pieces at my shop!
beacon14
10-18-2008, 04:30 PM
Seeing wood like that makes my toes wiggle. Good luck with the drying process...I'll check back in a year to see what you can make out of it...
Make sure to seal the ends good with several coats of latex paint or it will dry too fast from the ends and you will then see hard work going to firewood, Don't ask how i know this Gene
Gary Campbell
10-18-2008, 11:52 PM
Jack..
if you have access to one, on boards that wide, banding the ends helps end checking. (along with a coat of something to prevent drying too fast. With the width and thickness of those boards, it will be long after next spring before they are ready to play with.
Gary
myxpykalix
10-19-2008, 03:23 AM
I used "Anchorseal" to seal the ends and I may go get some band clamps (the ratchet clamp tie downs) and clamp them down together tight.
If that is what you mean by "banding the ends"?
We are going to let them air dry for 2-3 months then stick them in the kiln for (I think he said) 6 weeks?
Gary Campbell
10-19-2008, 04:35 PM
Jack..
Use one of those banding machines like the lumber yards have to put a band tightly around both ends of wide boards. (plastic stains the lumber less) this cuts down on end checking (splitting)
My bad... I thought you were simply going to air dry til spring, didnt realize they were going in the kiln.
Gary
magic
10-19-2008, 07:36 PM
Not sure the spacers are the way to go. They allow the boards to sink between them and become warped.
I've spent a lot of time at a lumber yard and the owner laid wood on top of wood (six feet high). He flipped each piece either end for end or upside down to help avoid any problems from cupping - then plastic sheeting THEN cinder blocks to hold them flat.
Looks like a nice bunch of pieces, I'm in the city and don't have any room to do that.
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