New shopbot cabinet pics.

[dray]

These were cut, stacked and built in about 8 hours on my bot.

I hope no one finds these offensive =P
If anyone needs or wants the cut files email me.

Lifes waaay too short to be sooo serious all the time.

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[myxpykalix]

Is that mdf also? How many total sheets of mdf was used? What is the deminsions of the completed unit? I'd like the cut files please.
Good job!

[dray]

I think it was like 13 sheets, only because the customer wanted it at 2" deep and my material is 48" wide..

I'll shoot them over to you tomorrow or later this evening Jack, Im at home now and files are at shop..

I think the cab is like 108" wide X around 9' tall something like that. I can log onto my office computer from home , I'll check later.. ATM Im trying to fit a sony bravia into our bedroom at the moment lol

[brian_h]

I'm in the process of designing a corner entertainment center for a 42" flat screen. I totally admit I'm a novice at this. I know a fair amount about basic construction, however I lack experience. And I'm old enough to know that I'm going to make a mistake somewhere. It's sure nice to know you're hanging around the board to offer input. Great job. I'm curious about what process you use for the staining. It blows me away that MDF can look like that. Between you, Theatre-room Frank, and Christopher Lowell, I'm starting to see MDF in a whole new light.

[dray]

That cabinet took a looooong time to stain..

They used a new technique. I have about 40 pre done doors in the front office at my shop for customers to choose from but this one had to match a maple with a dark dark espresso stain.

So my painters did a shading laquer, where they actually add tint to the laquer and put it on in coats until the correct color depth is achieved.

We stopped using primer all together now we are using a sanding sealer right on the mdf to "cure" the edges.

we did a bunch of test pieces and with a hard outer shell like this cab with 6 coats of laquer and a base of primer it scratches very very easily because the primer is soft ,kinda like an M&M lol. But its damn near bulletproof with a sanding sealer base.

The problem is that all my origional samples of fauxs etc all have tinted base primers so we are trying to figure out a work around

[brian_h]

Lacquer... of course. I have a HVLP setup to spray water-based poly (Hydrocote, Polyshield, satin is what I use), but nothing flamable. I've never tried tinting the poly. I don't even know if it is recommended.

Hmmm.... sanding sealer. I'll have to play around with that.

[fleinbach]

Great job Danny

[dray]

Thanks frank!! Maybe one day I'll be doing some really nice work like you guys do. I have a hard time with really big jobs like you guys do I get over stressed and shut down.

I really need a good finish carpenter on my team. I do most everything with a helper as far as building and installing goes. I have a crew of painters but they are artists and I dont have to converse with them much they are on top of things and know exactly wha tthey are doing.

[fleinbach]

Danny,

Believe me that last theater room nearly consumed me. I do not keep a record of my design time so I have no idea how much time went into it and probably don't want to know. All I can say is I was ready for a rest long before it was complete.

[papad]

danny what type of sanding sealer are you using?
David in Wyoming ( curently in Branson MO. doing a 200,000+ sq ft buildings mouldings and trim package)

[dray]

Sanding sealer is a laquer type fast dry.. I can look tomorrow when Im at the shop for exact brand.

But it makes the MDF bulletproof!
We had been using a 2 coats of primer then stain or faux etc then multiple coats of laquer, but I realized after pushing my thumbnail into the origional sample it was the primer that was too soft. Now its like powdercoating!

I am really liking the new method.

On a sheet of mdf you can run your thumbnail into it and make a mark, but with the sanding sealer it makes it realllly hard. The only thing I can relate it to is fiberglassing a board, as the mdf takes in the thin sanding sealer it makes the whole outside of it hard as rock, along with sealing it.

Plus if you stand in my paint room while the painters are doing it you come out feeling better =)

[thewoodcrafter]

Danny,
Have you ever tried conversion varnish instead of lacquer?
We use 1 coat on vinyl sealer and 1 wet coat of conversion varnish, gives a fantastic build. Conversion varnish has about 41% solids, about 3 times N.C. lacquer.
And it is pretty much water proof also.

[innovative_cabinetry]

I second that. Personally I prefer MLCampbell products. For MDF I either use the tinted Clawlock primer topped with Resistant or tinted Vinyl sealer topped with Krystal depending on hoe the end product is suppose to look.

They also have a great line of products for glazing, crackle etc.

[dray]

Thanks you guys.. I am going to look into those products.

[dray]

Just reporting..

I tried the MLCampbell stuff! Works great, takes longer to dry than the solvent based stuff. I loved it but it costs 2x as much as the solvent based and my painters like it but its not readily available and costs too much for them to switch.

The campbell rep comes into my shop 3x a week trying to sell me hardware but its never in his truck like my reg hardware guy.