Another Newbe question

[tvolkmann]

First off thank you to everybody that has contibuted to this forum. My machine left Durham today and the information in these threads has been valuable. However, I am curious how people set up a table for pieces cut and/or drilled the same every time. Also, what is the best way to set up a table if you must remove a piece and place it back in the same spot every time. The pieces that I will be working on will be routed, removed for staining/grpahics/resin/etc., and then placed back on the table for drilling. Dimensions are roughly 10x24. Any help would be appreciated and I am unfortunately a visual learner so pictures would be even better, or directions to other threads.

[myxpykalix]

The first pic is what another botter suggested and it was easier to draw it then to search for the post. However what it amounted to was a groove cut down the X and Y axis where he then placed a piece of 1/4" masonite hardboard in the groove so that whatever piece he put on the table would have the same position on the table.

What i do is in the second pic. I have a jig i made with a 90 degree corner that i place on the table. I then C3 finding the 0,0 for the table.
then i move the carriage to the X (center of material in the picture). WRITE THE NUMBERS FROM THE X,Y AXIS READING NOw.
Then i zero x,y.
If you leave the jig on the table whether you work on something after that on the table elsewhere you can always go back and use those numbers you wrote down earlier to find the center of the material and then drill your holes from the cut file for the holes with no problem.

7522

7523

[bcammack]

We have a fence of 1" angle iron that runs the whole x axis about 14.25" in Y from 0/0. (we cut out sink holes and faucet holes for bathroom vanity tops)

We have pneumatic clamps and a laser that shoots the centerline of the sink bowl. The operator at the preceding station reads the build sheet, cuts the blank to the specified length and then lays out and marks the top for the sink centerlines.

The Shopbot operator runs the blank top off the roll line, onto the Corian spoilboard, turns on the laser, lines the centerline up with the red laser line, flips the pneumatic lever to clamp down the piece, and selects the bowl/faucet hole configuration from the six buttons on the touchscreen and hits "GO".

[tvolkmann]

Thanks guys...I like the laser line idea and wall jig. I do not think I will be able to use a clamp/wall method since I will route around the entire piece of wood. What I think I need is some kind of raised dedicated vacuum area for each piece and somehow use dowels, or whatever, underneath to put the plank back in the same spot. Has anybody done something like that?