Rebuilding the firewall

[pro70z28]

Now that the English Wheel is done, I'm getting back to work on the Camaro. I'm making flanges for the intercooler tubes to pass through the firewall. Cut them out on the ShopBot. Now I'll cut them to size on the lathe.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/FirewallFlanges1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/FirewallFlanges2.jpg

[rb99]

Hi Gary,

Really nice work. What progy are you using to create the files?

Thanks,

Richard

[pro70z28]

Thanks Richard. I design the parts in Flexisign. I've used that program every day since the early 90's so it's the easiest for me to use. I save the file as a DXF and import it into the ShopBot program. I use Flexi on a MAC & with The ShoBot being driven by a PC the DXF format works great.

[rb99]

Have you ever tried Enroute? For those who are not familiar, Flexisign is a sign making cad program, and Enroute is a sign routing program by the same company. They have been pushing background texture features in recent versions. Funny how times change with you using Flexi on a Mac. We used to call them Macintosh CrApples...(probably jealous)

I notice you don't get a whole lot of tool marks on your aluminum cuts. Have you beefed up your SB to make it more aluminum friendly?

Cheers,

RIB

[pro70z28]

Richard, I've got a copy of enroute. I bought it a few years ago, but we had problems with it . I don't remember what exactly, the driver I think. but like I said it's been years. The rep I bought it from quit I believe and I never hooked up with another rep. I did call the company, but never got any response. Any way, I have a system that works so it all sorta' fell between the cracks. I'd like to pick up Aspire one of these days.

Got the flanges turned this weekend.

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/8913/flangebore.jpg (http://img25.imageshack.us/i/flangebore.jpg/) http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/flangebore.jpg/1/w850.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img25/flangebore.jpg/1/)

I put a groove around the edge of the flange for the firewall sheet metal. Once I install the o-ring and get in place I'll check the new gap with a feeler gauge and make a soft gasket to seal the flange to the firewall

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8826/frontfirewallflangeclea.jpg (http://img196.imageshack.us/i/frontfirewallflangeclea.jpg/) http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/frontfirewallflangeclea.jpg/1/w850.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img196/frontfirewallflangeclea.jpg/1/)

Engine side of the flange bored to size for the tubes.

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/7459/flangetubefit.jpg (http://img36.imageshack.us/i/flangetubefit.jpg/) http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/flangetubefit.jpg/1/w850.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img36/flangetubefit.jpg/1/)

Got everything mocked up. The flanges on the windshield will be added to the inlet side. I'll turn those once I get the V-band clamp. Should be here any day. The outlet side attaches to the carb bonnet with hose & clamp.

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/4591/flangesmockedup.jpg (http://img194.imageshack.us/i/flangesmockedup.jpg/) http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/flangesmockedup.jpg/1/w850.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img194/flangesmockedup.jpg/1/)

[pro70z28]

Made a little more progress. I put the ol' foam mock up engine in it to make sure I get the angles right before going too much further.

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/236/plumbingmockup102709.jpg (http://img23.imageshack.us/i/plumbingmockup102709.jpg/)

[pro70z28]

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/1606/vbandassembly1.jpg (http://img130.imageshack.us/i/vbandassembly1.jpg/)

I've been runnin' the lathe off & on the last few days & got the V-Band clamp flanges done.

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7206/vbandassembly2.jpg (http://img33.imageshack.us/i/vbandassembly2.jpg/)

Assembled and ready to TIG together

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/2476/vbandassembly3.jpg (http://img440.imageshack.us/i/vbandassembly3.jpg/)

one more check to make sure everything fits like it should.

[navigator7]

Hold it!
What?
You machine aluminum with an SB?
Huh?

And a mac user on top of that?

[shoeshine]

And I machine brass clock gears. It can be done. The Bot was not really designed for it, but is perfectly capable of small runs if you dont push your speeds and feeds too far and get the appropriate bits.

[pro70z28]

Yea, I cut aluminum often, Steel also. I even cut some stainless steel yardage markers for a golf course once.
I cut these 4 link brackets out of 3/16' steel plate.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/pro70z28/Rearendassembly3-21-06.jpg

[shoeshine]

ahh ok, examples... just a quick shot of what I was working on Friday.

three gears and the actuating arm on a wood trial base, all unfiled and unfinished. please excuse the crappy dig cam shot, but it gets the idea across. the whole thing is 3.5" total.


1114

[shoeshine]

Gary, what bot setup (system, spindle? bits?)are you running for steel? I have a BT48_Std w/ PC router and I haven't had the guts to try steel yet, though it would be awfully useful for me to be able to cut a few small parts here and there on the bot. I somehow came to the conclusion browsing the forums that soft non-ferrous(alum,brass, etc...) was my limit. I love to push things but I don't want to kill my tools. any info appreciated.

Chris

[pro70z28]

Chris, I have a PRT96 Shop Bot Vintage 2002. It has a Perske spindle I've never had luck cutting steel with anything smaller than a 1/4'' bit.t My bit of choice is a 4 flute carbide up spiral. I's been a while since I've cut steel but if I remember right I ran the bit @ .02 X,Y & .02 Z and .02 step down. Maybe if I get a chance I'll go out & look at the tool set-up to see if those are in fact the settings.

BTW: That is some nice work.

[navigator7]

Hey Gary and Chris...don't you guys know there is a depression going on?
You are having too much fun!

[shoeshine]

Cool thanks, good to know. I have a few 4 flute TiN coated end mills stuck away somewhere. maybe Ill have a swing at a piece of scrap if I get some time this week. If that doesn't fly I'll bite and order a carbide to try.

[pro70z28]

Chris. I use the 4 flute for steel only. It gets too hot cutting aluminum and aluminum will weld to the bit.

4 flute for steel & 2 flute for aluminum works best for me.

[mims]

I once used a 4 flute from MSC to cut aluminum.. well should I say to MELT aluminum. Won't make that mistake again.

[navigator7]

In my past life machining aluminum with manual machines there was no known rpm limit. The two flute cutters where the bit of choice. We spun 'em as fast as the machines would go...but then again we could hog at 1/2" or better. A friend ran cnc machines at 30,000 rpm. He also kept me supplied with junk end mills ground to useless specs. About that time inserts were taking over.
What I just realized while typing this is nobody has mentioned anything about carbides or heavens-knows-what is out there now. Often you can get 8 or more cutting points off a single insert. Do any of you guys use inserts?

[pro70z28]

Never used inserts. 1/4" bits are relatively inexpensive and will last a long time if not pushed too hard.

[navigator7]

Gary,
In my limited machining experience I can't recall if inserts we're even available for 1/4" but I once held a screw in my hand that was so tiny it fell down into the grooves of my finger prints!

ISYN!

I was told the screw was built on a CNC MILL so I am assuming the guy didn't grind his own bits.

The reason I'm kicking this around is the possibility of carving rock, granite or marble might be doable with a diamond insert?

If a diamond insert was available...why buy anything else?

[pro70z28]

I'm thinking rock might be out of the range of a shopbot, but I haven't tried it so I can't say that for fact. The reason I say that is when I CNC steel I can tell (even taking very light cuts) that the gantry is at is max. It doesn't take much to grab a little too much material & either break a bit or getting sever chatter, which is about when the bit snaps. That being said I like to try things like that just to see if it will work.

[navigator7]

We have a deposit of soapstone in the area...oh no! The secret is out!
;-)

Yeah.....machining steel with a ShopBot goes against everything I know about the process. Rigidity rigidity rigidity! Any thing moves and stuff breaks.
But hey???

You know ... rock is strong but brittle. And I suppose it depends on the rock. A diamond bit might just scratch it to death which would be enough.

We also have a rock here called CACO3 or calcium carbonate.
It is pure white.
I don't think it is transparent but like you say...I haven't tried to look through it. Some chunks are as big as pick up.

Free too.

Food for thought, eh?

[shoeshine]

There is another thread on this that I'm not finding ATM but I ran a bunch of tests a few months back and found that I could engrave stone up to a mohs scale of 3-4. meaning slate, marble, some soapstones, jade, etc...

My bit of choice ended up being a centurion carbide Vcarve bit which has no flutes. It basically scrapes the hole out.

http://www.centuriontools.com/router_bits_toolcase/centurion_tools_showcase.html?cart=125782830657371 2&splashPG=y&__max=6&pageID=1&id2=15&noitems=T&sta rtat=1&--woSECTIONSdatarq=15&--SECTIONSword=ww

These are slate tiles that I cut Chinese characters into for a patio and walk.


1115

[navigator7]

Right on, Chris!

Any indication your machine was getting a workout?
Did you fracture any pieces?

[shoeshine]

Chuck, I was taking extremely shallow passes, as this was a one off project and I was more concerned about not damaging my brand new bot rather than getting the best speeds. so no, I never really saw the bot flinch.

I burned up my starter Vcarve bit before I found this centurion bit with a better geometry.

I did fracture a couple of tiles but I think it had more to do with the variation in the slate than anything I was doing. when they broke they cleved along the natural striations in the stone.

[pro70z28]

That is very cool. The bot cuts stone. I would never have guessed it would work. That looks great Chris.