PDA

View Full Version : Endgrain on carving



myxpykalix
07-19-2007, 12:51 AM
I have a carving i did on some maple and in certain locations i get what looks to me like endgrain. I have removed it from the table so runnung a smaller bit toolpath is not an option at this point. I have a wirewheel and a slap sanding wheel which help to some degree but wondered if there was other solutions that could help with this. I recall reading here to use sanding sealer(?) but i'm not clear on how that would help?

7668

dray
07-19-2007, 01:29 AM
Heya Jack.. the sanding sealer makes the fuzzies hard and easy to sand.

As they are now they are like fine hairs which is why they werent cut, instead "brushed" aside by the bit. Try some sanding sealer or spray laquer to stiffen them up.

myxpykalix
07-19-2007, 03:30 AM
Have you ever seen a hairbrush where the bristles are just nubs sticking out of the handle? Thats what this looks and feels like. I will go spray on some spray laquer and go back to the wire wheel and slap sander.

rick_woodward
07-19-2007, 03:56 AM
DO NOT use minwax sanding sealer for this purpose. Contrary to its name its a nightmare to sand. Immediately clogs even coarse sandpaper. I have an arsenal of different sanders and things i use . I'd rather deal with the raw wood than add a finish to the problem. Which will become a problem if doing a clear finish or semi - transparent finish over raw spots and remaining sealer/lacquer, whatever. Just my opinion from 30 years experience carving.

myxpykalix
07-19-2007, 04:30 AM
Now you tell me! lol.I just walked in from the shop after spraying a coat of shellac. I understand the point of stiffening up the fuzzies but wondered about having a coating of shellac as an undercoat to whatever you decide to put on it.
Danny's pretty good with finishes so i think it will be ok.

brian
07-19-2007, 12:36 PM
Has anyone tried offsetting by say .02 running the file,then applying a sealer(without removing it from the table) and running the file again without the offset.I don't know if the sealer would be hard on the carbide or not.I thought that if the sealer was able to stiffen the wood enough it might machine cleaner.
Just my 2 cents

Brian

myxpykalix
07-19-2007, 05:49 PM
Well this file took 9 hours to run the finishing cut so rerunning the file wasn't an option. What it really needs is good old fashioned elbow grease only my rhumatiod arthritis makes my joints feel like they are on fire when i do repetitive movements like handsanding. Thats why i look for mechanical solutions. I have been making headway with the wirewhell and flap sander.

jseiler
07-20-2007, 09:05 AM
Brian, yes, I just did this last week. I was making beaded mdf panels and not getting the finish I wanted. Lots of fuzzies. I ran one toolpath about 5 thou up from where I wanted to finish. I used a nylon brush and air to blow out the dust and bullseye shellac. after it dried, I ran the finish pass. Came out pretty good. These were to be painted, so finish issues shouldn't be too bad.

John