Can I import SketchUp into PartWorks 3D?

[jporter]

Again, you cannot be too plain or complete in your answers, but I have downloaded a free 8 hr trial version of SketchUp Pro 6, and have drawn out a simple part that I want to transfer to PartWorks 3D. Is this possible and EXACTLY how do I go about it? I like to build furniture and want to use my BT 32 for making things like tenon joints, etc. I believe these parts need to be designed with a 3D program because they will need to be machined on both sides. Am I on the right track? I have asked a similar question as this recently and got several helpful responses, but I seem to get hung-up on the simple mechanics of computer management like Importing and Exporting files, etc. So, to finally get to my question; I am happy with the part I have made in SketchUp, now, how do I get it to where I can run it on my machine? Thanks, joe

[ron_varela]

To cut it in PartWorks 3D it will need to be in a format v3d,stl,3ds,sbp probe and so on.
Look to see if you can save or export in any of these formats and check the rest in PartWorks 3D.
This will better help solve the problem.

Ron

[ron_varela]

PS: most joints can be done in 2d, to do both sides just make a file for both sides of the material.

Ron

[Gary Campbell]

Joseph...
There is no need to develop a 3D file to cut most wood jointery. You will need, however, an accurate way to index your parts on your table. Once you have that, you can cut your tenons 1,2 or 3 sides at a time. (I prefer 1 as it gives square corners)

I have a PRSa and cut mortise' on a shopmade jig. It is also used to cut tenons vertically (up to 32" length). Here is a pic of a 5/4 teak being mortised.

7732
Gary

[jporter]

Thanks, Ron and Gary, I think what you are telling me is don't try to make something hard out of something easy. But,....If I wanted to design in SketchUp, exactly how do I transfer these drawings to the PartWorks 3D program that came with my machine? Please start with which key to hit first and walk me through it. Thanks, joe

[Gary Campbell]

Joe...
I cannot tell you how to do anything in Sketchup, as I've never even seen it.

I can Show you how you can locate and draw a simple mortise and tenon on part using Partsworks. I persoanlly havn't had the best luck tranfering vectors from one program to another.

I make a generic model 24" square with the XY zero in the center.
then make 2 rectangles to represent the size of the materials I am looking to join
With my jig on the PRS, I put the end of the tenon piece to the negative side of X=0
and the mortise piece to the positive as shown below
I then make a rectangle the size that I want my mortise & tenon and place it on the tenon rectangle in desired location(s). This rectangle is designed with radiused corners that are 1/2 the bit diameter I am going to cut with.

When these are complete, I group the tenons and end piece rectangle, copy and paste for a second copy, then rotate and move to the desired mortise location to preserve spacing, etc.
When in proper location, ungroup and delete extra end piece rectangle.

To toolpath I offset the endpiece by 1/2 bit diameter outside and area clear between that vector and the outside of the tenons to the depth of the tenon length. I then do a pocket cut in the mortises .010 deeper. I do not use any offsets for glue, but simply enter the bit size as .002 smaller than actual, which give me glue clearance and nice fits.

Some of this will be different on your BT, but this may help you get started. My picture above shows the mortises being cut on my jig in the -X position.


7733
Hope this Helps, Gary

[jporter]

Thanks, Gary. It was nice of you to respond. I believe your method is the only true way to cut both mortise and tenon with a great deal of accuracy and no unnecessary part turn-overs, etc. I also think this will allow me to cut dovetails also. The only problem with my machine is that the table moves under the cutter and will not allow me to make a jig outside the edge of the table. So, I am trying to bring myself to the fact that I will have to cut a hole in the aluminum table. Not a very big hole, something along the lines of 2" by 6". Oh well, this is what I bought the machine for, cutting furniture and cabinet parts, not especially carving....Thanks again for the come-back, joe

[Gary Campbell]

Joe...
One note: The pic shows a .005 offset, but I prefer the method in the text. If you need more or less clearance, simply adjust the bit diameter "lying" to the software.

I have submitted an article to SB concerning dovetails and other jointery based on the PC jig. I dont know how far along the pipeline it is, but am sure its in the works. Other than the location changes you may need to adapt to the BT, most of what you need should be there.

For multiple tenon joints, I would learn to draw them as above. For singles or repetetive work, I would built custom files and use variables to cut them without the drawing.
Good luck, Gary

[jporter]

Gary, thanks, joe

[bill.young]

Hi Joseph,

It's certainly possible to use Sketchup with ShopBot...Rob Bell is a Wiz at it and talks about it in a talk that he gave at the Sketchup 3DBasecamp, http://www.shopbottools.com/robsmagic.htm ... but it's definitely not as easy as we would like it to be.

The good news is that the Sketchup guys took the ShopBot from the 3DBaseCamp back to their office to play with for the summer, so hopefully the process will get a lot easier.

Bill

[jporter]

Yes, I have seen his video and read his column, and he has given me some advice earlier on another question. Trying to work with a 3D program has given me more insight and appreciation for PartWorks 2D and I think I will take Ron's and Gary's advice for now and stick with the 2D, which is no slouch to learn. You all have got to remember that they sell these machines to just anyone, namely me, and a lot of us do not realize that the "C" in CNC stands for "computer". But, I am determined and will press on... thanks for the come-back, joe

[mikek]

Here is a link from Vectric site to convert a Google Sketchup file to input to Cut 3D (Partworks 3D).
http://vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3370

Haven't tried it myself yet, but the guys here says it works fine!

[rob_bell]

Owning SketchupPro allows one to export their 3D model as either .3ds or .dxf, plus many others.

3ds is good for Partworks3D / Cut3D

dxf is good for Partworks / VCarvePro

As Gary said, most joinery operations are best considered as a 2D or "2.5D" operation.

And Mike has shown a less expensive, if more circuitous, path of getting your model out of Sketchup and into a Vectric product.

I think you'd be best served by following Gary's example, thereby reducing the number variables in your process.

-Rob

[jporter]

Mike, Rob, thanks for your help. What got me started on all this was the free 8 hr. trial that SketchUp gives you to try it out. I was wondering if it would be useful enough to pay upwards of $495 for it. The 8 hr trial has been very educational as far as asking questions and getting answers to what I think are pertinent considerations to purchase software or not. So far, I think I am better off to stick with PartWorks 2D and really get to understand that. So, once again, thanks to all for your patience and kind replys. joe

[bill.young]

Once again I was the bottleneck, but Gary's article on cutting dovetails and other joinery is FINALLY live...

http://www.shopbottools.com/garysmusings.htm

Bill

[myxpykalix]

i just breezed thru it initially but it looks like a real well put together article and has lots of pictures so Gary, Bill GREAT JOB!

[bill.young]

That was all Gary's work....my only part was to delay getting it online.

[Gary Campbell]

Bill, of course, is being more than generous. Spelling, grammar, adding the Sketup models, adding the files to ShopBot Labs and saving us all from copyright infringement are just a few of the things he does to save our tails. (mine especially)
Thanks, Bill