Finishing ideas

[nick]

8037

So far I haven't been able to resize at 50K without loosing all the details that I want to show.

This piece was machined out of figured hard maple.

I want a simple but detail showing natural finish.

Any recommendations???

[thewoodcrafter]

I would use a dye stain not a pigmented stain.
Maple is really blotchy when colored. I spray the dye on maple.

[porscheman]

I definitely agree with Roger - dye-based stains are the best for closed-pore woods like maple. TransTint dyes are excellent (no affiliation - just a very happy customer) and they can be applied directly to bare wood (using water or alcohol as a carrier), added to tint clear coats, etc.

One great way to "pop the curl" in figured maple is to use a honey amber or golden brown dye stain and then apply it to the bare wood. Wait for that to dry and then lightly sand the surface again. In dense maple, you'll sand off some of the dye that remained close to the surface in the closed-pore maple. However, in the figured areas where the grain angle varies, more of the dye will remain and those areas "pop" when you apply your finish coats. You could practice on the back of this project if it's not going to be visible.

Finally, the best way to get the carved details to stand out is with a judicious application of glazing. Normally glazing can be a daunting task due to the "open time" of most oil-based glazes - you have to apply it and then wipe most of it back off until you get the desired look, and this all has to happen before the glaze sets. However, ML Campbell (again, no affiliation) has a relatively new product called "Amazing Glaze" which is very aptly named. You have to spray it on, and it dries into a thin, VERY POWDERY film in less than 60 seconds. You can then wipe/brush/blow it off the flat surfaces, anywhere from 5 minutes to 5 hours later - the open time is effectively non-existent. Unlike heavy oil-based glazes, this thin, powdery product can be used to create very subtle glazing effects, which is probably what you are after on this figured maple. In fact, you have to leave a bit more glaze than you would think because when sealed in place by your top coats, some of this material almost vanishes. It's effect is so subtle that you can even use a very light sprayed coat around the perimeter of the plaque as a shading effect (if desired) - that would be impossible with a traditional oil-based glaze.

Well, enough suggestions for now - email me if you'd like more info.

John

[Gary Campbell]

Nick...
Our process is right in with the guys above, except that we seal before any dye, stain or glaze is applied. ML Campbell products of course!

By the way...the Amazing Glaze John mentions is awesome!
We spray the MLC Microton Dyes cut with lacquer thinner or acetone.
Gary

[dray]

Wow, that is nice, I would clear coat it then maybe rub a slightly darker stain into the crevices etc, then clear coat again

[jsfrost]

Sort of off topic, but related. Anyone have a foodsafe stain/method to recommend?

[billp]

Jim,
Here's two options;
Behlen makes a "salad bowl finish"which is non toxic when cured,and they have a matching "salad bowl stain" to go with it.
And then there is my all time favorite- shellac! Totally non toxic, baby safe ( even used in the coatings of M & M's.....)You can tint shellac by making your own,using flakes, and alcohol.