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jsfrost
07-25-2007, 08:37 AM
I would love to try some of the techniques I see on the forum but in my market, price matters. Here are a few of my spraypaint on cedar "one bit wonders" designed to minimize labor.


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jhicks
07-25-2007, 09:25 AM
Nice work Jim.
Nothing like simple cut, paint, sand, and invoice. Don't forget the other costs and time though.
Price is a funny thing rarely subject to a universal formula or agreement but as long as you don't put yourself in an uncomfortable position, sacrifice premium jobs for low price jobs, and get whatever you need to be happy, prosper, and progress GO FOR IT.
Sooner or later you'll determine the true costs and market value for everything that goes into it beyond labor and materials (maybe you already have) and know if it's a negative, marginal, or a winner.
The one acid test my freind Joe Crumley told me early on was...
Consider doing this (or whatever) all day every day. Would it get you the personal and financial satisfaction you desire. If yes... GO, GO, GO. If maybe, try it out a while to see if it can achieve your goals, , if not, reconsider it or other options.
It was good advice which I keep in mind and I hope it makes sense for you too.
One thing for sure, the more experience you get, the more name recognition you get, the more practice you get, the more techniques and materials you use, the better off you will be as new opportunities arise.
Keep it up!! You can make it happen.

brian_h
07-25-2007, 12:35 PM
Oh, I don't know about your market. I grew up in Mankato and I think you'd be suprised. Even Waseca is a good prospect. Just get some good work out in a spot that'll be noticed. Then let people know who made the sign. Just my 2 cents.

Nice signs. I think I'll use some cedar for a little anniversary gift-sign for a neighbor.

olecrafty
07-26-2007, 05:19 AM
Jerry speak truth, Joe heap smart man

olecrafty@charter.net (mailto:olecrafty@charter.net)

edcoleman
07-26-2007, 07:50 AM
I've tried doing some cedar signs like that but have run into trouble with the paint bleeding past the carved paths. I've tried a few different techniques but the one that I thought should have been "bullet proof" was this:

1) Vcarve the project setting the z-zero about 1/16" below the surface of the wood.

2) seal the wood with several coats of shellac

3) spray the desired color fill

4) run the sign thru a planer to remove 1/16"

Even with these steps I get very noticeable bleeding. I would have thought sealing the wood with shellac would have avoided this issue.

What I'm thinking now is that it might be the type of cedar I'm using (Atlantic White Cedar). Is there something simple I'm missing???

-Ed

jsfrost
07-26-2007, 08:33 AM
Ed,

Your process pretty much matches mine. I carve .050 below the surface, but the .012 difference should only help. I can see slight bleding when I look carefully at close range, but my customers are happy. I am always exploring ways to improve.

The specific wood species may account for some differences in bleeding; I will ask my lumber store for botanical information. It might be the specific spray paint brand or it could be that your tolerance does not not match mine.

jhicks
07-26-2007, 09:19 AM
On the subject of bleeding into the grain, I'm not sure this is the answer but you might try a clear coat first. Even a rattle can of spray clear polyurethane to seal vs the shellac. Then paint over and surface plane or sander to clean off the top.
We did some redwood this way and followed up with clear over the top. It added a very nice gloss(if thats what is desired) to the black paint but less on the raw redwood for some more POP to the sign.

Just a thought
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cnc_works
07-26-2007, 11:39 AM
I've done thousands of western cedar signs and have found that bleeding varies with the density and color of the wood. The worst is light flat sawn (both in color and weight...read porous) and the best is quarter sawn, dark and heavy. At shows when producing them on the spot, I don't have the luxury of pre-sealing the carving so I just do the best I can, but, as with Jim, my customers are happy.

In shop production, my process is much the same as Ed and Jim, but for shows, I pre-finish blanks with a couple of heavy coats of spar urethane, then after carving the sign, I airbrush black latex in the fresh carving and simply wipe off the excess from the impervious urethane with a damp paper towel. These signs wear amazingly well, too. There are some samples on my site, www.cncworks.biz (http://www.cncworks.biz)

Donn

harold_weber
07-26-2007, 12:27 PM
Donn, the brass branding iron is a great idea!! If you cut that branding iron shown on your web site with your ShopBot, could you please post the bit, feed rate, and router speed you used?

Also, did you use any cooling/lubrication? I suspect none would be needed if you used "free machining" brass..

Thanks

pappybaynes
07-27-2007, 02:10 PM
Ed, I would not use your planer for taking off the paint unless you enjoy sharpening the knives on a regular basis - pain will dull the knives very quickly.

phil_o
07-28-2007, 09:16 AM
I just read an article in Scroll Saw Magazine. For oil based stains sealing with glue sizing (one part white glue to three parts warm water) will help prevent bleeding. I haven't tried this technique yet but I will.
I've had good success by staining the wood first with a stain such as golden oak, applying three coats of water based polyurethane, carving the wood, then staining the carving with a very dark water based stain. The golden oak tends to hide the bleeding.

brian_h
07-28-2007, 01:15 PM
I'm finishing up my first cedar sign. I've definately learned a few things the hard way. When it's finished, I'll post a picture and give a few details. So far, tear-out was a problem in the cedar, as well as stopping the bleeding. I still have to tweak speed and cut depth, but after my 4th attempt it's starting to look pretty good. I'm using Rustoleum American Accents for my paint. I tried using their primer for sealing, but had so-so results. I could have tried a second coat, but instead I tried their "Top Coat" to seal the grain and painted over that. That's looking better. This time I'll let the paint dry longer before sanding, probably a day or so. Hopefully that'll keep it from gumming everything up as much.

bill.young
07-28-2007, 08:08 PM
Hey guys,

I've moved some of this information over to the wiki and have consolidated it a little. Feel free to edit away.

http://shopbotwiki.com/index.php?title=PaintTechniquesMain

brian_h
08-02-2007, 09:38 PM
Here's my first sign. It is attached to a post that stands in front of a Mountain Ash tree the neighborhood bought for this couple. Still a few things I could have done better. I guess that'll come with experience.
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myxpykalix
08-02-2007, 11:35 PM
If thats your first, i can't till #20. That looks great.