Cutting board wood

[foamcarver]

I want to make a wood cutting board, but does anyone know of the best wood to use. Or does it not matter? And then how would I finish it off? I also want to paint the other side to make it so you can set hot pans on it.

Thanks
nikki
nicole@foamcarver.com (mailto:nicole@foamcarver.com)

[porscheman]

Nikki,

Closed-pore woods make the best cutting board choices because they are less likely to retain any food debris and are easier to clean/maintain. Also, very hard species are less likely to be marred by daily use with sharp cutting utensils. I've used hard maple, beech, and bamboo (a very popular choice today).

Finishing options are usually penetrating-type oil finishes that are food-safe. Several companies sell "salad bowl" finishes and I've seen some people use a very light coat of shellac (maybe a 1.5lb cut) just to give the wood a little bit of moisture resistance.

Regarding painting the other side for high-temp applications, I've never seen that before (might not mean much.....). Unless you are using an automotive-style high-temp paint (which I wouldn't consider), I'm not sure you could find a film finish that would resist surface temps above 300 to 400 degrees. It would seem important to make sure that material also is food-safe, even if it is on the other side of the cutting surface.

Just my two cents....

John

[stevem]

Nikki,

I place hot pans on my bare maple cutting boards all the time. Doesn't seem to have affected them after years of use.

[foamcarver]

Thanks! I'll probably use the hard maple. I'm making ginger bread cutting boards for my gandma for christmas, and so maybe I'll just carve some eyes and buttons instead of painting them.

Thanks
nikki
nicole@foamcarver.com (mailto:nicole@foamcarver.com)

[woodworx]

no finish will take over 130 degrees except epoxy. Any finish once it is dry is "food safe" I have refinished over 700 tables for an Italian restaurant chain. Oil polys will bubble, Water base polys will hold up to the heat, but break down faster then oil based finishes. Marine grade water based poly has held up the best under hot condensation that the pans produce.

[tparr]

My experience with this kind of project is that they are so special, that people only show them and not really use them.

[harryball]

Alder works well too. Use a food quality mineral oil or a mineral oil with beeswax in it. Remember, be ready to eat whatever you put on it.

/RB

[fredtoo]

Check out the Wood Whisperer, some good stuff:
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-7-a-cut-above-part-1/

[Brady Watson]

Maple works very well. If you're in the mood, why not spice it up a little with some Paduk, Purple Heart or other contrasting color in the glue-up? http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/messages/17997/18002.html?1170102694

I think I cut 1.5" strips of Maple and other woods, then EPOXIED them together. I made one for one of my neighbors and it hasn't split after going thu the dishwasher several times. Could probably use another coat of salad bowl finish on it at this point.

-B

[foamcarver]

Thanks, I'll take a look at the links and hopefully start cutting soon!

Thanks
Nikki
nicole@foamcarverc.com (mailto:nicole@foamcarverc.com)