Off topic lacquer

[frank134]

I made a high chair for my grand daughter. I want to clear finish it with M.L CAMPBELL MagnaMax C148 14 Satin-35. High Performance Pre-catalyzed Lacquer. I can't fine anything in the msds that says it good or bad for this. Ask the dsi (supplier) were I buy it and they don't know. Can anyone help me or know a clear finish I can use that NOT WATER BASE and safe for food and children. Thank you frank

[billp]

Shellac...

[dlcw]

Frank,

This debate has raged on through the ages. Any finish, WHEN FULLY CURED, is food and children safe (except leaded paints of course). Oil based finishes take longer to fully cure then water born finishes. I use General Finishes Arm-R-Seal oil/urethane finish on a lot of things I do. It fully cures in about 30 days. Conversion lacquer and varnish fully cures in a matter of a few hours (thus the reason large manufactures like it so much).

Lacquer and varnish form a much harder finish then urethane and shellac. They won't hide scratches like urethane will though. Urethane is a softer finish thus enabling it to flex a little and hide scratches better.

For children's toys and furniture I've made I use Arm-R-Seal and have never had a problem.

Shellac is a good finish but I don't think I'd want to clean the high-chair with baby-wipes. I'm not sure what's in those things (maybe alcohol - dissolves shellac) but it will clean stuff like no other product I've seen.

Don
www.dlwoodworks.com (http://www.dlwoodworks.com)

[knight_toolworks]

or make life easier and use one of the water based finishes. faster easier and water won't hurt it at all.

[Gary Campbell]

Frank...
If I was building them for my grandkids, I would use M L Campbell products. "Level" sealer and "Krystal" topcoats. They are arguably the best out there. Post catalyzed, HAPs compliant chemical cure so there is very high resistance to heat, moisture and household chemicals. And they dont warp wood and raise grain like waterbase products.
Gary