$10 shoe molding

[myxpykalix]

Molding would cost around $10.00 per 8 ft piece from Lowes. I made enough to go around the whole room out of 1/2 sheet of mdf for around $10.00.

It's 3" high with this design in it. I set the 3" piece on end clamped it and used a 2x6 for side support. Just manually ran the bit down the X axis bumped it in once, ran it down again.

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[knedert]

oh.... my......

[myxpykalix]

Is that a good "oh my"? lol

[beacon14]

That's not shoe molding, it's base molding, and most people would run that over a shaper or a router table, but hey, if it works for you, go for it - the more practice you get doing oddball stuff like that on the ShopBot the faster and easier it gets to do even MORE oddball stuff!!

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[rick_woodward]

Interesting Jack and David. Whats those going to be David? A chest or curved glass front cabinets?

[paco]

I must say that I would do it on the router table or shaper too... still, it got you tinkering Jack and it sound like you saved. Keep at it!

Nice work David! I really like the way you manage this molding!

[billp]

Jack,
Looks like you found a solution to get your pix on the Forum as well....

[beacon14]

They will be a pair of bow-front nighttables. I'll post a pic when they are done, hopefully next week.

[harryball]

I actually killed a cockroach with a sledge hammer once just to gain an appreciation for the word "overkill". Jack, you got me beat. From your description it's like holding the board in place and running the router table back and forth across it. LOL

Don't get me wrong, I'm impressed, you've come a long way and I can't say it doesn't look like fun. However, using a bearing bit on the bot would make me somewhat nervous.

Robert

[ed_lang]

Does the bearing on the bit act like training wheels on a 2 wheeler?

What other goodies are you hiding in your shop John?

When will you be ready for a indexer demo? Let me know.

[myxpykalix]

Heres my problem,putting the shopbot in my shop was like shoving a bulldog in a shoebox. I have no room for anything anymore. So trying to take my router table, setup supports for the stock to be held level was impossible. Take my word for it this was the easiest solution, 2 runs down the face and its done.

I was a bit concerned about the bearing but in my setup i lined it up to make a small cut to begin with then just bump it in with the "fixed" button and the bearing just barely touched.

I had recommended this program here before called "jpeg optimizer" from xat.com. I had a crash and lost everything so i had forgot about it. I remembered it and when and got it again.

Ed a indexer demo? You mean you're going to teach me? Cuz i don't know squat yet!

[ed_lang]

Jack,
You head up getting donations to buy me an Indexer so I can learn at night in the shop.... then I'll teach a class. :-)

[myxpykalix]

Daivid, you call it potato I call it pototo...lol, you're right. Sometimes i search for the word in my head and i can't find it (I think they call that senility!)
Please tell me how you are cutting your fronts out, that looks great. It looks to me like you have your design routed into the face already, how did you do that?
Then it looks like you have 5 fronts on the table did you design it to have enogh room to cut between each curve? Kind of reminds me of those "bombay chests" very nice.

[beacon14]

Jack, I did the same thing you did, ran a profile bit on the SB except on a curve. I drew the profile in DesignCad to determine the offset from the bit centerline to the reference surface of the part, created offset lines that distance from the final curve, and in VCarve used the Profile toolpath with "on" selected (same thing as Machine Along Vectors in PartWizard).

I created additional offsets 1/8" and 1/16" from the final toolpath and used those as roughing passes. I ran the final pass with a 1" bit on the melamine jig before securing the workpiece for clearance for the bit end and bearing and to help locate the workpiece on the jig. I also ran the final pass with a 1/2" straight bit to remove the waste from the workpiece before using the profile bit. There are five curved pieces on the workpiece so I could use one for getting the angles right. I had to cut one short to get the miter angles right using trial and error - they are not 45 degrees.

I was able to purchase curved doors but had to make curved raised panel drawer fronts using similar techniques as the supplier will not make curved parts that wide.


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[jay_p]

David,

I realize that this is rather off topic, but where do you buy those spring clamps like you have in the photo? Do they work well to clamp miter joints?

Jay

[beacon14]

Collins Tool (http://www.collinstool.com/base.php?page=collins_miter_clamps.htm)

Hartville tool also sells them, I found them by searching for "spring miter clamps"

They do work well, I recommend you get the pliers too, they allow you to place (or remove) the clamps with one hand while you hold the workpiece with the other.

[jay_p]

Thanks David. I just ordered some clamps.

Jay

[beacon14]

Here are the completed nighttables, ready for finishing and marble tops.


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[paco]

Nice work as always David!

[myxpykalix]

Very very cool...that rounded front makes it really neat. Good job!

[Brady Watson]

David,
Beautiful job!

The way you have them positioned in this photo reminds me of that old nursery rhyme: http://tinyurl.com/27s9mx

-B

[conceptmachine]

Nice work David
shawn

[foamcarver]

Love the curved cabinets


Nikki
nicole@foamcarver.com (mailto:nicole@foamcarver.com)

[andre]

David nice work!

how did you make the curved drawer fronts? bendable ply with veneer? I've been wanting to try my hand at curved doors and drawers, not sure where to start.

[beacon14]

Thanks for the compliments everyone. The curved fronts are all solid wood, cut out on the 'bot as in the pics above. I routed the grooves for the panel and rabbeted the panel edges on my router table using a curved fence (I would have routed the groove on the SB but the profile would have been upside down, i.e. I needed the grooves to be on the underside of the curved pieces as they were milled on the 'bot.


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BTW I did not cut the curved fence on the SB - I just traced one of the parts and cut it on the bandsaw. Much faster since I only needed one and it did not have to be perfect.

Brady - I've seen that photo - what a hoot! Someday I hope to be able to have the time to just play around like that.