What is a "Zero Plate", and why do I need one?

[tuck]

I've had my Bot for 4 years now and have managed without one, whatever it is. I figured I could get the low-down from ShopBot, but nah, I'll let you guys tell me what a dummy I am.

What exactly is a Zero Plate, how does it work, and how can one make my "already easy" life any easier?

Much Thanks,

Tuck

[fleinbach]

Life in my opinion is far easier with then without. Off course I never did without, I've been using the zero plate from day ZERO.
I also have a friend who has had a shopbot for about 5 years now. In fact that's where I first learned about them. Well any way after he had his for over 3 years and never used a zero plate he made one himself when he saw mine.
I would not want to ever be without one.

[tuck]

Thank you, Frank, but you didn't answer my questions.

What exactly is a Zero Plate, how does it work, and how can one make my "already easy" life any easier?

LOL!

[btk]

Basically, a Zero Plate is a piece of metal that you place on the surface that you are looking to cut (or another reference point) that sends a message to your control box to Stop when the router bit makes contact to the plate (through low voltage wiring). There is a SBP file that facilitiates the process.

If you know the exact thickness of your zero plate, you can then lower your bit that amount to be exactly touching the surface of your surface (insteaed of eyeballing, or putting paper underneath, etc)

Becomes very useful when cutting 3D surfaces to tight tolerance, when changing bits on the same part, etc.

[srwtlc]

Mark,

Like BTK said, a zero plate is a thin metal plate (can be aluminum or brass) of a given thickness that you use to set the Z axis zero on your workpiece surface or the table/spoilboard by way of the zzero.sbp file. The zzero file must be modified to take into account the thickness of your plate (mic it to find out what your plate thickness is).

Open the zzero.sbp file and read through it to see where to put your plate thickness and to understand what the file is attempting to do.

Once set up, zeroing your bit is as easy as hitting two keys. In my case, and I assume many others, I just put the plate under the bit (not running of course) and hit C2. In just a few seconds your bit is zeroed to the surface of choice.

You can easily make your own plate, mic it to find out what its thickness is, and wire it up as instructed in the manual.

Hope this helps to clear things up a bit.

Scott

[geneM (Unregistered Guest)]

we bought the plates and don't use them.
We cut mostly 3d(2.5D for you purist). and our bits are titanium coated.
We found out that If you use a coated bit the z zero plate will not work.
the coating interferes with the electric signal of the plate.

Just to let you guys know, so you don't break a bit like I did.

cheers
gene

[jsfrost]

Very timely Gene,
I just bought a titanium bit, and would have broken it tonight.

Jim

[williamim]

Hi Gene
I have used titanium bits in my Colombo and have never broken a bit using the Z plate. Check your ground wire if it is loose or disconected you will break bits.

[fleinbach]

I'm not sure why there would be any problem with titanium coated bits since titanium is a conductor.
One reason I believe some people are breaking bits may be due to a dirty tip. Particularly the smaller bits needing to run at high speeds. When the material your cutting burns it deposits a coating on the bit. This coating is an insulator. It is nonconductive. Make sure your tip is clean before using the Z-zero plate.

[phil_o]

I would like someone who zeros their z-axis without a zero plate to describe the procedure they use. I assume you use the keyboard to raise and lower the router until you contact a feeler gage of some sort. I've found the keyboard command SK to be very difficult to be precise with.

[geneM (Unregistered Guest)]

can do,
i lower the bit (turned off of course) into the top of the wood SLOWLY. then z,z.

but I use a caliper to measure the cut part.

then I use the planer, jointer, sander, whatever to fine tune the part

usually onlt to a .03+/-

I will check the plate again, but I am pretty sure the coating we use is non-conductive (zn54)
maybeit's zinc and not TiN

cheers
gene

[Brady Watson]

Way back in the stone age, before the Z-zero plate's debut, botters used a piece of paper under the bit to gauge where zero was. You can use the keypad in SB3, and step it down a little bit at a time using the D key and then Pg Up/DN.

Gene is correct...MANY coated bits do NOT work with the Z-zero plate. In my case, I use a lot of diamond coated end mills. The diamond coating is NOT conductive and insulates the router from the plate. Tin is not the only coating out there, and in fact, is used generically to describe many coatings that are not in fact Tin...Your Tin coated bit may work...but some of the other ones won't.

It's always smart to touch the zero plate to the bit before you run the zeroing routine, and see if Input 1 is on...If it isn't, then you'll break the bit.

-Brady

[dirk]

I've got a quick question since Brady mentioned he uses a lot of diamond bits. I was reading post in another forum that they were using diamond bits to get better edge quality on MDF. I an using Trupan and it cuts really nice, however I still need to sand. Anyone tried Diamond bits on Trupan? I don't like to sand.
Dirk

[Brady Watson]

Dirk,
Diamond coated bits are not cheap...Just to give you an idea, I pay $72 EACH for 1/8" diameter, .5 LOC diamond coated end mills. I NEED them to cut the coposite materials that I machine. Just for comparison, the same identical non-coated bit runs $5.30 each.

What are you cutting the Trupan with? I get really good results just using a 3/8" or 1/2" straight bit.

-Brady

[geneM (Unregistered Guest)]

but the diamond bits go really well with that little black coctail dress

[robtown]

strapless?

[geneM (Unregistered Guest)]

& 6 inch heels