Headphone cup reproduction.

[knight_toolworks]

my audiophile guy wants wooden headphone cups so off I go. I was going to have brady do these in 3d but I figured out how to do them in 2d. I think it would have been too slow doing 3d on them. purpleheart is not a great wood for this but these are more samples to test them. took several test in glued up mdf to get the design right.
the walls of the hump are really thin pretty much too thin I think but the inside is as small as I can make it and the outside is as larger as I can make it and have it all fit.
the outside bevel sucks and I need to change it. I need a small 100 or 110 degree bit.

1541

1542

[mzettl]

Looks pretty good to me, Steve. I wonder if using a glued up lamination would help with strength, durability, etc? For instance, glue up the required number of 1/8" layers of purpleheart, lroating each layer 90 degrees, to reach the desired thickness. Might lessen the risk of cracking, breaking, etc. due to the thin walls. Of course, there would be a distinct change in the appearance which might not be what you want. Just a thought.

Another thought would be to use Dymondwood. Amazingly strong and durable, and it requires no finish per se other than polishing. I haven't machined it on the Bot, but I have turned it, and it seems to machine very nicely. It's pricey, but your audiophile guy doesn't seem to overly concerned with economizing!

BTW, how are you holding these down, and how do you register them when you flip them over?

Anyway, great job, and I'll be anxious to see your progress and the finished product.

-Matt

[tkovacs]

Nice machining. Does the outside need to look exactly like the original? A less angular look might be nicer in wood and allow for thicker walls. I've had some good experience using maple for small objects - http://www.koventusa.com/hearts/index.html
I think these would look really nice in curly maple.

Terry

[knight_toolworks]

I agree the bevel needs changed it is about 108 degrees. the curve will only follow the edge though it's impossible without doing 3d to get it any different. I don't know how practical it would be to get a wider bit in there.
I used pins and flipped the wood on them. not perfect but pretty good. they seem off maybe 100th or so. when I make lits (if they sell I will make a big jig to I can do quite a few at once.
Looks though is pretty important so the wood needs to be nice. the first ones will be walnut and I bet curly maple and such. it's the cup thats thin and I could use a tapered endmill on it. in fact that may be the way to go as the top of it needs to clear the holder.
if I can find a small 110 degree v bit that may do it.

[tkovacs]

Steve,
Instead of a bevel how about cutting a series of concentric circles of increasing depth with a small ball nose - say 1/4 inch size. The resulting circular pattern might look interesting.

Terry

[myxpykalix]

Steve,
Call Fred at centurion i'll bet he could make you a 110 degree vbit.