knight_toolworks
07-21-2007, 01:57 AM
I have been cutting out a lot of my wooden hand planes. Well learning too. Way too much wasted wood. Some of it was doing my toolpaths wrong pieces coming loose bits breaking and so on. Cutting tropical woods is far different then testing on mdf and other cheap wood products.
They are far harder may splinter more can’t handle as much speed or depth of cut and so on.
One problem I found is finish. Two cuts at angles through the wood one side are nice and shiny and the second is always dull and fuzzy. Of course these two butt together so you notice. Cut direction made no difference it is the bit rotation direction. Plus cutting at the angles I do. Tropicals are worse about this then American wood.
I also found and then read here how climb cutting can be less accurate and I sure found that out. Cutting the outside of the bodies showed me this. I have to do the right side with a climb cut to keep from going uphill on the curve and blowing out pieces. Well that side always comes out larger so I had to offset the left side cut .0 and they come out close. They don’t always match but it’s not super critical. The insides need to match as perfectly as possible. So I remove the bulk of them and have an offset for a full depth pass to clean them up.
The problem is I really need to use a ¼” cutting but I cut to about 1.5” depth when I cut the outside out. That’s really pushing that size cutter. I found an endmill that has a 1 ¼” cut and they are ok but they sure screech when cutting the bodies out. I only do .5 stepdowns and about 1.6 ips. I may be able to go a bit faster but even at that speed the steps are pretty visible.
I found after some chat here that a router may work well. So I got a couple of ¼” routers with a 1 ¼” cut. Silly me did not notice they were 4f. But I got them today and the cut was better. I had to slow down a bit to keep the cut accurate but the steps are now only lines and not the ridges I had.
With some redrawing I can go to 5/16” bits so Centurion Tools will grind some of the 1” 3f rougher’s so the shafts don’t rub. If I like them when I can afford them I will order 6 (minimum order) of the 5/16” with a 1.5” cut. The rougher’s cut nice and clean so I can cut all normal cuts as they don’t splinter. Purpleheart is pretty bad about that. Padouk is petty easy to cut though.
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They are far harder may splinter more can’t handle as much speed or depth of cut and so on.
One problem I found is finish. Two cuts at angles through the wood one side are nice and shiny and the second is always dull and fuzzy. Of course these two butt together so you notice. Cut direction made no difference it is the bit rotation direction. Plus cutting at the angles I do. Tropicals are worse about this then American wood.
I also found and then read here how climb cutting can be less accurate and I sure found that out. Cutting the outside of the bodies showed me this. I have to do the right side with a climb cut to keep from going uphill on the curve and blowing out pieces. Well that side always comes out larger so I had to offset the left side cut .0 and they come out close. They don’t always match but it’s not super critical. The insides need to match as perfectly as possible. So I remove the bulk of them and have an offset for a full depth pass to clean them up.
The problem is I really need to use a ¼” cutting but I cut to about 1.5” depth when I cut the outside out. That’s really pushing that size cutter. I found an endmill that has a 1 ¼” cut and they are ok but they sure screech when cutting the bodies out. I only do .5 stepdowns and about 1.6 ips. I may be able to go a bit faster but even at that speed the steps are pretty visible.
I found after some chat here that a router may work well. So I got a couple of ¼” routers with a 1 ¼” cut. Silly me did not notice they were 4f. But I got them today and the cut was better. I had to slow down a bit to keep the cut accurate but the steps are now only lines and not the ridges I had.
With some redrawing I can go to 5/16” bits so Centurion Tools will grind some of the 1” 3f rougher’s so the shafts don’t rub. If I like them when I can afford them I will order 6 (minimum order) of the 5/16” with a 1.5” cut. The rougher’s cut nice and clean so I can cut all normal cuts as they don’t splinter. Purpleheart is pretty bad about that. Padouk is petty easy to cut though.
8414
8415
8416