Need Advise on Selection of Tool Bits

[gerryv]

Situation: I have a Shopbot Buddy 32" Standard with a PC router and a 1/2 collet/nut. Nothing else. As yet, I've not done anything more than air cutting. Because I need to start from scratch in learning to use software as well, I'm probably going to go with Vectric/Shopbot's newly announced Aspire so that I can hopefully limit myself to one program. Cutting speed is not a priority, I'd rather focus on detail and finish quality - as little sanding, etc. as possible and doing virtually everything on the Shopbot if possible - I have no other woodshop equipment and little room for anything - I want to tinker, make nice carved gifts and do some model/prototype work for my own ideas and my son want's to build the occasional guitar and do inlay work.

What I need to know is what would be a good selection of bits to start off with including backup bits for most frequently used ones. I'd need a planing bit in there I imagine. Budget - maybe $250??? Hopefully the background info above will help a bit as I'm sure there are 1000 "right" answers to this.

Thanks kindly,
Gerry

[myxpykalix]

Call Fred at Centurion tools:
http://www.centuriontools.com/router_bits_toolcase/centurion_tools_showcase.html?cart=122443755443265 172&splashPG=y&__max=6&pageID=1&id2=8&startat=1&--woSECTIONSdatarq=8&--SECTIONSword=ww

Here is the page with the starter sets. If you call him maybe he can advise a mix and match set for you specifically for your needs.

Here is a surface planing bit (#2704) 1.25"
http://magnate.net/index.cfm?event=showProductGroup&theID=136

[drodda]

Stay away from the Magnate #2704 bits unless you want a wavy surface of your spoilboard. I tried five different ones of this same bit before I finally gave up and requested a refund. The bits are not flat but a 197 degree v-bit. I talked quite extensively with them about this and they did not seem to get what the problem was. If you hold the bit flat on a table you can easily see daylight from under the edges of the bits. There are many other good bits but I would stay clear of this one.

[myxpykalix]

Dave,
I haven't had as much problem with the magnate bits as you, however one problem i've had is they have cracked more than i would expect a tool to. But then again I probably don't use them as much as you either.

[gerryv]

Thanks much for the info. I probably should also have asked about diameters. Because time is not a big issue for me, because I'd like to make sure that my limited bit selection would allow for detail work and because, not being a for profit venture, should I assume that smaller (cutting) diameters would be the best compromise for both roughing and finishing? Are there one or two V-bits that are more general purpose (i.e. 60 degrees)? Is HSS okay if production speeds aren't important and I'm learning on MDF and then maybe trying some bits of harwood? Including a planing bit (size?) what are likely my best 4-8 bits to choose (type & dia.) Does the Onsrud pkg. from Shopbot suit my needs? Is there maybe better value with equal quality? Thanks again for the patience.

[ron_moorehead]

Hi Gerald,

As you say the choices are all most limitless. I would think you need to get a ¼” collect for your router to. I would get a 60 deg bit and a 90 deg bit for v carve work but you need to make sure the bit is 60 and 90 degs and the tip is centered. For general cutting I would look at a good 1/4 “ down cut spiral bit you can also use this for rough cutting for 3D work. For 3D work you will need to get a ball nose bit 1/8” is a good starting place, but a 1/16” leaves a better finish, but longer time to cut out. If you got your shopbot from ShopBot you should have Partswork it’s the same as Aspire, but Aspire has 3D creation capabilities. So once you learn the 2D side not with Partsworks your half way they with Aspire. But you can upgrade to Aspire for only $900 till the end of the year. You will also need to get a good flat bit for surfacing your table top. I was very happy with the bit package I got from ShopBot well worth the money. By the way MDF can be very hard on router bit, I don’t use any router bit on Hardwood that I have used on MDF because MDF can dull the bit quickly. If you looking for a cheap material to play with get shop pink foam insulation from Home Depot cuts like butter and easy on the router bits.

Hope this helps.

[gerryv]

Ron, that helps wonderfully, thanks much!
- Gerry

[gerryv]

I think I'm narrowing things down somewhat but questions lead to more questions I think. Keeping in mind that speed/volume are not an issue and I'll be focusing on finer detail work (hopefully using Aspire)
1. Will tapered, round nose bits be a better/worse option than round nose bits and what are these bits best used for? I'm having a bit of trouble finding the tapered, round nose bits up here in Canada.
2. Should I assume that I don't want a ball bit where the ball is like a cherry on a stick but rather one more like a straight cutter with a rounded end - or vice versa - or maybe both are fine?
3. Is a 3-flute cabinet makers V-bit a better choice than a 2-flute for V-carving letters and designs?
4. I'm seeing lots of bits with bearings on the bottom (depth guides I'm guessing). Am I correct in assuming they're a real big no-no for Shopbot use?
5. I'm finding lots of up-cut bits but having trouble finding down-cut ones. Is there a simple rule-of-thumb for when to use one or the other - especially with regard to 3D relief type work?

At this point a number of fellas are saying "dang, sounds like he's never even used a hand router before..." Shh, please don't tell anyone :-)

[ron_moorehead]

I think I'm narrowing things down somewhat but questions lead to more questions I think. Keeping in mind that speed/volume are not an issue and I'll be focusing on finer detail work (hopefully using Aspire)

1. Will tapered, round nose bits be a better/worse option than round nose bits and what are these bits best used for? I'm having a bit of trouble finding the tapered, round nose bits up here in Canada.

What I have been told is a Tapered ball nose bit is stronger than a straight ball nose bit. If you’re only cutting a short way in to the wood a straight ball nose bit should woke.


2. Should I assume that I don't want a ball bit where the ball is like a cherry on a stick but rather one more like a straight cutter with a rounded end - or vice versa - or maybe both are fine?

The bit will be weaker at the tip, do to the under cut on the ball.

3. Is a 3-flute cabinet makers V-bit a better choice than a 2-flute for V-carving letters and designs?

Not sure I have used both and they both seem to work fine for me. Again need to make sure your tip is centered.

4. I'm seeing lots of bits with bearings on the bottom (depth guides I'm guessing). Am I correct in assuming they're a real big no-no for Shopbot use?

You have no need to have a bit with bearing on ether end. Most bit with bearings are used with patterns you place on the part your cutting and then follow the pattern to cut your item out with the bearing riding on the pattern as a guide.

5. I'm finding lots of up-cut bits but having trouble finding down-cut ones. Is there a simple rule-of-thumb for when to use one or the other - especially with regard to 3D relief type work?

A up-cut bit with leave a rough cut on the top of the wood, down-cut bit will leave you a clean cut on the wood. A up-cut bit spinning in the router as it cuts will pull the material up and out from the wood leaving a rough cut and more likely to pull splinter from the wood, it also pulls the wood up from the table. A down-cut will push down into the wood and help hold the wood in place as it cuts it will cut down wards in to the wood and leave a soother finish.

[gerryv]

Once again, thanks much Ron.

- Gerry

[myxpykalix]

Gerald,
You won't find any bits with a straighter sharper point on them then centurion bits. They also have the 1/4" and 1/8" ballnose bits. Theres are like a straight cutter with a rounded end.

8801

[erik_f]

Don't use HSS unless you want to start a nice camp fire. As someone else stated start out with Partworks before you drop the $900 bucks. Partworks can do alot. The only thing it can't do is 3d DRAWING...but if you found some 3D models you CAN cut them with PW 3D.